I have Solved the Power Window Issue :)
06-07-2004, 09:38 PM
#16
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Location: Vermilion, Ohio USA
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Originally posted by FireHawk409
Do you happen to have pictures of how everything looked installed?
Do you happen to have pictures of how everything looked installed?
I will snap some pics and E-Mail them so they can be posted
06-07-2004, 09:39 PM
#17
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Location: Fort Benning, GA
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Originally posted by JOE96Z28SS
I have to take it back apart tomorrow to have my brother re-rivet the mount as the rivets are loose and the window makes a lot of noise due to it actually moving at the right speed I will snap some pics and E-Mail them so they can be posted
I have to take it back apart tomorrow to have my brother re-rivet the mount as the rivets are loose and the window makes a lot of noise due to it actually moving at the right speed
I will snap some pics and E-Mail them so they can be posted
06-07-2004, 10:19 PM
#19
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Originally posted by Spinner
Do me a favor and save them as .jpg instead of .bmp if you can. PITA messing with .bmp files because of their size. If you can't, it's no big deal though
Do me a favor and save them as .jpg instead of .bmp if you can. PITA messing with .bmp files because of their size. If you can't, it's no big deal though
06-07-2004, 11:30 PM
#20
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I am still a little confused whether it will help as a long-term solution. Suggested method are forcing motors operate faster and better due to increased current through them. That can possibly burn them. But actually they are supposed to take this load. From other side - if motors are became stuck by some mechanical reason even with stock wiring - it will result in current increase too, and I think it will be higher than in suggested method and more dangerous to them (like headlights motors opening/closing stopping method). I'll give it a try tomorrow
06-07-2004, 11:42 PM
#21
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Originally posted by valter
I am still a little confused whether it will help as a long-term solution. Suggested method are forcing motors operate faster and better due to increased current through them. That can possibly burn them. But actually they are supposed to take this load. From other side - if motors are became stuck by some mechanical reason even with stock wiring - it will result in current increase too, and I think it will be higher than in suggested method and more dangerous to them (like headlights motors opening/closing stopping method). I'll give it a try tomorrow
I am still a little confused whether it will help as a long-term solution. Suggested method are forcing motors operate faster and better due to increased current through them. That can possibly burn them. But actually they are supposed to take this load. From other side - if motors are became stuck by some mechanical reason even with stock wiring - it will result in current increase too, and I think it will be higher than in suggested method and more dangerous to them (like headlights motors opening/closing stopping method). I'll give it a try tomorrow
06-08-2004, 10:24 AM
#25
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Location: Vermilion, Ohio USA
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Originally posted by valter
I am still a little confused whether it will help as a long-term solution. Suggested method are forcing motors operate faster and better due to increased current through them. That can possibly burn them. But actually they are supposed to take this load. From other side - if motors are became stuck by some mechanical reason even with stock wiring - it will result in current increase too, and I think it will be higher than in suggested method and more dangerous to them (like headlights motors opening/closing stopping method). I'll give it a try tomorrow
I am still a little confused whether it will help as a long-term solution. Suggested method are forcing motors operate faster and better due to increased current through them. That can possibly burn them. But actually they are supposed to take this load. From other side - if motors are became stuck by some mechanical reason even with stock wiring - it will result in current increase too, and I think it will be higher than in suggested method and more dangerous to them (like headlights motors opening/closing stopping method). I'll give it a try tomorrow
06-08-2004, 10:50 AM
#26
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Location: Leesburg, VA
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>> Undercurrent is the WORST enemy of motors
I would absolutely agree with you on that. This is especially true for compressors and other high-load motor-driven components.
>> And most of us are changing window motors anyway so I may create a "Plug In" system and sell it.
You need to act fast, that is potentially even better then O2 sims
I would absolutely agree with you on that. This is especially true for compressors and other high-load motor-driven components.
>> And most of us are changing window motors anyway so I may create a "Plug In" system and sell it.
You need to act fast, that is potentially even better then O2 sims
06-08-2004, 11:03 AM
#27
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Location: Little Rock, AR
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Just as a note, other people have said they have solved the window motor problem by bypassing the thermal limiter in the motor. So, there may be more factors at work. Obviously, this won't "fix" a bad motor. It will give a motor plenty of power, though and potentially speed it up.
06-08-2004, 11:07 AM
#28
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But what has me convinced is I replaced EVERYTHING and I mean EVERYTHING except the glass!!! and it still went bad, the thermal limiter is there so you won't have a fire in your door, I'd NEVER bypass that but the Oxydation of the conductors in the switch, I believe are the culprits. Also GM has had bullitens in the past about bonnevilles having undercurrent problems through the switches, that's why they have door modules now!
06-08-2004, 11:26 AM
#29
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Location: Fairfax, VA
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I assume a Camaro's window motor setup is the same as in the Firebirds, right?
This is great news; My driver side motor failed and the dealer raped me $$$ wise and also scratched the window in some places
I'm no electrician but some pictures of the actual setup might help
This is great news; My driver side motor failed and the dealer raped me $$$ wise and also scratched the window in some places
I'm no electrician but some pictures of the actual setup might help
07-08-2004, 08:03 AM
#30
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oklahoma
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Read this and tell me what you think.
My pass. side window rolls down but not up via the pass. side switch, but goes up and down flawless via the drivers....must be the switch right? Just reaplaced it with a brand new one and it does the same thing. Cant be the motor if it works flawlessly via the drivers switch, so it must be wiring? It has done this since i bought it and i've taken he door panel off 2 or 3 times so i couldnt really be a pinched wire or anything.....what are my options?
repost
My pass. side window rolls down but not up via the pass. side switch, but goes up and down flawless via the drivers....must be the switch right? Just reaplaced it with a brand new one and it does the same thing. Cant be the motor if it works flawlessly via the drivers switch, so it must be wiring? It has done this since i bought it and i've taken he door panel off 2 or 3 times so i couldnt really be a pinched wire or anything.....what are my options?
repost