flusz28

i wired my boost gauge up to the 12volt source on the passengerside(little red box. anyhow i didn't take into account that the source has 12volts at all times. so when i shut the car off the light bulb in the gauge stays on. where can i wire it up at so it turns off when the car shuts off? thanks

Injuneer

You could hook it to the "switched" ignition power source in the fuse panel at the end of the dash... see orange wire in picture ("Z" fuse box is upside down, compared to the "'bird" fuse box):

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun...C/DCP02496.jpg

Or tap into the headlight switch so that the gauge light is only on when the lights are on. Or, go on step further and tap into the output of the dash light dimmer rheostat and have the gauge light dim with the dash lights.

flusz28

Injuneer, how do i hook up the wire to the fuse panel. like what do i put on the open end of the wire so it holds into the panel and makes contact? thanks

flusz28

also i had my car running for 20mins scanning it and watching everything on data on my scanner. no codes and the coolant temp reads 167-170ish within the 20mins i had it running and the temp gauge inside the car was still reading too high and didn't go down? it was at like 210-215.. this is without the blower or alternator hooked up. the needle isn't stuck on the white face gauges either..

Injuneer

The fuse panel has a "spade lug" in the small square hole marked "IGN". Go to Radio Shack and get a crimp-on 0.25" female connector. Crimp it to the end of the wire and then push the connector over the spade lug in the fuse panel.

There are two separate sensors for coolant temp... one in the drivers side head to feed the gauge, and one in the water pump housing to feed the PCM. It is possible for the two sensors to pick up different temperatures, since they are located in two different places. But a 40-50degF difference isn't normal. Almost sounds like maybe your t'stat isn't opening all the way.

You can check the temperature sensors with an ohm meter. After the car has been sitting overnight, and when both temperatures should definitely be the same, measure the resistance of each sensor - the one in the head is a single pin connector, so you have to measure from the pin on the sensor to the block, the one on the water pump housing is a 2-wire circuit, so you can measure resistance across the 2 pins. You should get the same resistance on both sensors. You can check what temperature that resistance represents from the table in my online scanner writeup - page down about 12 screens or so and there's a table of resistance vs. temperature.:

http://cjcfo.fbody.com/members/injun...os/IntakeTrack

flusz28

aight boost gauge is done and i just replaced both sensors, my scanner with the car running for 20mins showed coolant temp being 167-170ish. i have a 160stat-electric fan mode and comp fan program for 170. both fans were coming on also. i will trace the wire for the temp sensor on the head and see if it broke somehow somewhere.. wonder when the car overheated when i was racing it when a hose came loose if that hurt the thermostat??