Evap pressure control vent valve
02-17-2017, 01:48 PM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Evap pressure control vent valve
Anybody know how to properly check evap canister pressure control valve on a 1993z28?It's the diagram on shbox's diagram section #28 bottom right hand corner of the diagram page.I've got the canister loosened (that was a fun clamp to get off) and managed to pull all the tubes with the valve out for inspection but still haven't disconnected any hoses yet because of the gas fumes.Many thanks.
02-17-2017, 06:15 PM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 194
Re: Evap pressure control vent valve
Fatdog2 I had a problem with gas fumes and after searching for answers, it led to this Thread. Maybe some of the info will help you out. Click on the next link.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...system-884666/
When I was blowing out my lines with the air compressor, I but Ziploc bags on the other end to see if anything came out of the lines. Don't seal the bag up tight all the way or it will blow up and you won't know if anything was in the line. Mine had Charcoal particles.
I also found a rubber line that was below the drivers seat area that was cracked and leaking really bad.
Let me know if I can offer any more info. My car is a 95 Z28, so I don't know if the system is the same or not in your 1993.
I would also recommend labeling the lines you are taking off so you don't get confused where they go putting them back on like I did.
The only thing I would do different is purchase the EVAP Control Valve as a GM or DelcoRemy Part instead of from AutoZone. It is working fine, but for peace of mind it kept me second guessing if it was part of my problem or not until everything finally was resolved. I was in a hurry, that's why I did it, and lucked out. I got the GM Canister from Rock Auto, and the EVAP Purge Solenoid from a GM Dealership. The Canister at the Dealer was around $300, and the same one from Rock Auto was about $110.
Everything is still working good, and no more particles for me.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...system-884666/
When I was blowing out my lines with the air compressor, I but Ziploc bags on the other end to see if anything came out of the lines. Don't seal the bag up tight all the way or it will blow up and you won't know if anything was in the line. Mine had Charcoal particles.
I also found a rubber line that was below the drivers seat area that was cracked and leaking really bad.
Let me know if I can offer any more info. My car is a 95 Z28, so I don't know if the system is the same or not in your 1993.
I would also recommend labeling the lines you are taking off so you don't get confused where they go putting them back on like I did.
The only thing I would do different is purchase the EVAP Control Valve as a GM or DelcoRemy Part instead of from AutoZone. It is working fine, but for peace of mind it kept me second guessing if it was part of my problem or not until everything finally was resolved. I was in a hurry, that's why I did it, and lucked out. I got the GM Canister from Rock Auto, and the EVAP Purge Solenoid from a GM Dealership. The Canister at the Dealer was around $300, and the same one from Rock Auto was about $110.
Everything is still working good, and no more particles for me.
Last edited by gaedbo; 02-17-2017 at 06:36 PM.
02-17-2017, 06:59 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Re: Evap pressure control vent valve
Fatdog2 I had a problem with gas fumes and after searching for answers, it led to this Thread. Maybe some of the info will help you out. Click on the next link.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...system-884666/
When I was blowing out my lines with the air compressor, I but Ziploc bags on the other end to see if anything came out of the lines. Don't seal the bag up tight all the way or it will blow up and you won't know if anything was in the line. Mine had Charcoal particles.
I also found a rubber line that was below the drivers seat area that was cracked and leaking really bad.
Let me know if I can offer any more info. My car is a 95 Z28, so I don't know if the system is the same or not in your 1993.
I would also recommend labeling the lines you are taking off so you don't get confused where they go putting them back on like I did.
The only thing I would do different is purchase the EVAP Control Valve as a GM or DelcoRemy Part instead of from AutoZone. It is working fine, but for peace of mind it kept me second guessing if it was part of my problem or not until everything finally was resolved. I was in a hurry, that's why I did it, and lucked out. I got the GM Canister from Rock Auto, and the EVAP Purge Solenoid from a GM Dealership. The Canister at the Dealer was around $300, and the same one from Rock Auto was about $110.
Everything is still working good, and no more particles for me.
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...system-884666/
When I was blowing out my lines with the air compressor, I but Ziploc bags on the other end to see if anything came out of the lines. Don't seal the bag up tight all the way or it will blow up and you won't know if anything was in the line. Mine had Charcoal particles.
I also found a rubber line that was below the drivers seat area that was cracked and leaking really bad.
Let me know if I can offer any more info. My car is a 95 Z28, so I don't know if the system is the same or not in your 1993.
I would also recommend labeling the lines you are taking off so you don't get confused where they go putting them back on like I did.
The only thing I would do different is purchase the EVAP Control Valve as a GM or DelcoRemy Part instead of from AutoZone. It is working fine, but for peace of mind it kept me second guessing if it was part of my problem or not until everything finally was resolved. I was in a hurry, that's why I did it, and lucked out. I got the GM Canister from Rock Auto, and the EVAP Purge Solenoid from a GM Dealership. The Canister at the Dealer was around $300, and the same one from Rock Auto was about $110.
Everything is still working good, and no more particles for me.
Especially the hose labeling.I think I will use yellow,white,and another color paint to mark each hose and connection.I kind of inspected the lines under the drivers seat area when I had my subframes installed and they looked good but didn't run any tests yet.Many thanks for your great post.
02-17-2017, 10:38 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,174
Re: Evap pressure control vent valve
Well,I took the valve off,shook it real good onto a white paper towel and nothing came out.I then inhaled both hoses(one uses a T for two connections)and heard a plop from the valve on both ends so the diaphragms seem to work ok.Awful taste though.I then shook the canister hoses and nothing came out.All the hoses and canister look almost new but I did clamp the hose to the fuel tank.Hey,I think I saved $40.00 or so.Hope this helps somebody.My02.
02-18-2017, 09:16 AM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 194
Re: Evap pressure control vent valve
Sounds like you didn't have anything wrong, but you just wanted to check out the system to make sure it was operating the way it is supposed to ?
Mine had the gas fume issue going on.
Mine had the gas fume issue going on.