blac94Z

Hey I was reading through my owners Manual and I seen that
Cars built in Canada have DRL and My car was built in Canada but I have
No DRL is this a Option? Just wondering bc I never seen my lights on in the daytime I'm going to check in the morning .

Injuneer

All 4th Gen F-Bodies were built in St. Therese, Canada. It's not where they were built, it's the specs they were built to, depending on which country they were SOLD in.

US spec 94 did not get DRL's. Canadian spec apparently did, based on Canada's legal requirements.

blac94Z

Ok great so there would be like a sensor on the dassh if i did have them

blac94Z

Right ?

Injuneer

Correct. There would be an ambient light sensor on the top of the dash, toward the center, near the right edge of the vent louvers. The plastic surround for the sensor is quite large and ugly. There would also be a DRL control module under the dash, attached to the A/C ducting. I'm pretty sure the Canadian specs have metric units on the dash instruments.

blac94Z

ok great hate to mix things up but i noticed you have a soild roller cam i was thinking about getting ISKY SOILD ROLLER but then i was told to go flat tappet which do you think is better for streetable driving ?

Injuneer

A flat tappet cam is totally out of the question. No one uses them any more. Why would you not use a hydraulic roller?

I run a solid roller because my engine has a 7,200 RPM redline. While valve adjustment is fairly infrequent, you would be adjusting at least once a year, and unless you buy very high quality roller lifters, you can wear the lifter out quickly due to the high spring pressures required.

blac94Z

may i ask why out of the question ? and i am trying to decide which to go wth i know my rev will be alot quicker with solid instead of hyd and flat tappet i had one in my 383
el camino made plenty of power no adjustments

Injuneer

I flat tappet rides on the cam lobe - loads of friction. A roller lifter has a wheel that rides on the lobe, eliminating the friction. Picks up some HP, reduces heat generation. Then there's the "area under the curve". A flat tappet is really "old school".... but if that's what you prefer, go for it.

https://www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Cam...tOrRoller.aspx

blac94Z

Lol im kinda an old skool dude but if you think i should go solid roller
instead of ft i may bc like i stated in some of my older post im new to the lt1, i just know i want the hyd cam out , and how much adjusting will
i have to do if i go full roller within a year daily driver ?

GaryDoug

Getting back to the original question: You may or may not have the DRL module installed in your car. Check for option code T61 to indicate the DRL option. Also check to see if the turn signal lamps come on steady whenever the ignition switch is on. If they are on, you have the DRL module but probably don't have the light sensor installed. The DRL module controls the turn signal "DRL" lights and the headlamps, but does not turn them on at the same time. In daylight, the DRL module would turn on the headlamps and turn off the turn signal lamps. Without the light sensor installed, that would never happen. Most US cars with the DRL module do not have the light sensor installed, and so will see only the turn signal lights on steady in the daytime.

blac94Z

Thanks alot gary idont know yet i have a dash pad on the car since i bought it im going to check it out later today and where is the module located ?

GaryDoug

I think it would be behind the radio on a 94, not sure. But all you have to do is check for lit turn signal lamps when the ignition is on.
Lamps on = DRL, Lamps off = No DRL

Injuneer

You don't want a solid roller cam unless you are planning to spin the engine over ~6,800 RPM. That takes an upgraded rotating assembly. Now you are into expense. And a cam that spins above 6,800 RPM is not going to be street friendly.

More likely, you want a hydraulic roller cam.

blac94Z

but I can custom grind a street able roller cam right ?