kingman109

ya- im not really concerned about little kids in my car- no longer has a backseat and untill i get a rollcage in her i try to limit my passengers-

on side note - now my drivers window is faster than passenger so gonna have to do that one tommorow -

wrd1972

This is somewhat a valid point.

But how bout this scenario. Someones head or hands get caught in the window while it is going up, the mega ****y thermal cutoff kicks in and the motor is shut down. Well the situation is going to be much worse cause the window wont go down.

At least with the bypass you can count on the motor not shutting down in either case in the event of an emergency. Also from what I can tell, the torque gained is about equal to when the motor was new and does not have the power to really do any damage.

Jus my 2cents

scottso

I am under the impression that the thermal fuse stops the motor at the bottom of the express down cycle. Failing that the breaker trips. I have replaced a failed breaker for my rear defroster - so they do fail. This is the other reason I didn't want to disable a safety. Now, it's probably a 1% chance of a problem, but I don't feel comfortable having the breaker continuously "shut off" the down cycle.

wrd1972

The thermal fuse will become resistive as heat builds due to additional load and current like the window reaching the bottom or encountering an obstruction. When the thermal fuse is working hard it will have a very slow response time, if it is fully "blown" it will need to cool in order to become less resistive in order to be fully functional once again. This is why it takes a while for a "dead" motor to come back to life, its the thermal circuit recovering.

Its my personal opinion that if the thermal circuit were used to stop the downward travel with the express down then this would aggravate the thermal circuit even more. I think that the express down module under the dash has solid state timers that are used for the express down feature. The fact that the passenger side motors have the same problems and they do not have express down leads me to this conclusion. I have had the right side fail much more than the driver side personally.

Even if the thermal circuit is bypassed and the window is all the way down and the motor is still trying to turn then the armature itself will absorb the power and heat much better than the dinky thermal circuit because any electric motor that is trying to turn will heat up if you prevent it from turning by using force.

The problem is over the years this thermal circuit breaks down causing additional resistance which leads to slow motors. The actual motors them selves easily go the distance. Plus you always have the breaker in the system so there is a measure of protection in place. I don't think that the breaker plays any part in the express down function as well, but i might be wrong.

Just for the hell of it I closed the window on my arm to put the issue to rest, it was a mild pinch but not painful. I then tried my finger which was a tad painful but no big deal. I would prefer not to do this with my head or neck but you get the point. I am confident in saying that if I did this in my Honda Accord I would be screaming for mercy.

Again I respect peoples concerns about safety for their kids in the event of having body parts rolled up in the window, but I think if the sceptics were to actually try the mod and see for themselves that the window motor does not become a torque monster with limb severing power they would be satisfied with the effort and the safety factor. Plus their windows would perform like they did when the car was new. The mod does not increase the motor torque or power any more than having a new or perfectly operating thermal circuit, the thermal circuit simply acts as an electronic "slip clutch" in the event of an obstruction, however now the motor armature itself is doing the job.

I have yet to hear from anyone who has had a bad experience doing this mod.

scottso

Well stated.

I may have unnecesarily gone out of my way to accomplish my setup. But, just for the record, I have had no problems with the setup I chose either. To each his own.

MarcR94v6

So when I do this mod with Shoebox's instructions, will the motor short out and keep going down using the auto down feature, or not?

kingman109

my autodown still stops at the bottom-

MarcR94v6

K, sounds like i'm doing it tomorrow.

wrd1972

No, just do it.

b-stevens

Bumping an old thread.

For starters, the end cap of my window motor (dated 04 02 2002) looks nothing like the end cap of the pictures in this thread. Also, the Internals of the motor are held securely in place by the shape of the metal casing (pressed flat on the two opposing sides, creating dimples that the internals can't be pulled through).

Has anybody else ran into a motor like this and literally pulled it apart in order to get to the internals?

edit: It just occurred to me that it's an AC Delco part, its already been replaced once (apparently by taking the whole door apart as compared to drilling 3 holes and rivets ). The passenger side hasn't been replaced that i'm aware of so i'll give it a try on that one.

kevm14

My pass window has always been slow (but oddly never quit) and my driver's window is faster but has just started the thermal limiter BS.

I always thought the auto-down circuit just looked at the current flow, and when the window reaches the bottom, the current spikes, which tells the circuitry to turn off the motor. Which is why I don't see how auto-down could work with the relay mod.

kingman109

dont ask questions... just have faith

i have no idea either... but i took the risk cause couldnt afford new motors...and somehow it does

RedRyder518

People need to realize that the express down feature does not use the motors internal thermal breaker to stop it. The express down feature is actually a module that controls all of that. I did this to my drivers side motor and havn't looked back since. If everyone's theory that the window motor is stopped by the thermal breaker or even the main circuit breaker, explain why when I activate the express down feature, I can still immediatly roll my window back up?

Bayer-Z28

ttt


STICKY!

kevm14

Yeah but how does it continue to work with the relay mod? It can't be a timer because window speed varies greatly by condition of the motor, the track, battery voltage, etc. Some people's windows wouldn't get all the way down, and other people's wouldn't shut off soon enough. It has to be something else. But what?