brentbrowning01

Alright guys as I've posted many times, I have an issue with my cooling system. And although it's probably not the problem, I'm changing my water pump, thermostat and serpentine belt Sunday afternoon. At least I'll be able to start from square one and see what's going on under the hood. I've had this car in storage since 2001... The main reason I'm asking for opinions is neither of my fans turn on.. Ever. I've tested the fans jumping pins 5 and 6 on the DLZ and fans come on only when I do that.. I'm no genius but that tells me that the wiring must be good or they wouldn't turn on when I do that. I've replaced the relays for the fans as well so it can't be a bad relay can it? Any suggestions?


I haven't posted anything since I created a signature. Just in case I didn't do that right, I have a 95 Camaro Z28 pretty much bone stock except for exhaust.

Fatdog2

Coolant sensor on the radiator ? I dunno.Might give it a shot.My02.

brentbrowning01

Thanks fatdog2! I didn't think of that. I might as well change it out too while I'm under the hood even if it's not the problem..

GaryDoug

The coolant level sensor in the radiator has nothing to do with the fans. it only affects the lamp in the instrument cluster.

You need to read the engine coolant temp from the pcm. Did you ever get a scan program working? Scan9495 will work on Windows 8. If you can't get it working, try Freescan 2.1.0. You can download it from sourceforge.net or from the same folder where Scan9495 is stored. Ignore the error message that pops up when first started; it looks for a setup file that doesn't exist yet.

If the fans come on while shorting pins 5 and 6 of the DLC then there is no wiring problem with the fans or relays. Check the coolant temperature sensor in the water pump. That sensor or the wiring from it to the pcm are the only things left to check.

Injuneer

You lose continuity by not continuing the older thread:

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/gen...estion-881113/

brentbrowning01

Good thing I got a new Coolant Temp sensor too! Thanks GaryDoug! Maybe just maybe this will work. I have no idea what you mean, Injuneer. Thanks for the support though..

GaryDoug

He means that by starting a new topic, readers will not know what has already been tried or suggested. Also there may be important details left in the older topic/thread.

brentbrowning01

Hey guys! I went to Autozone about a week ago and bought a new Engine Coolant Temp sensor and Temp Gauge Sensor. The problem now is, one came with a wire and one didn't.... Which is which? Grrrrrr Thanks for the help.

Injuneer

The sensor in the driver's side head (gauge) is the one wire, the one in the water pump (PCM) is the two wire.

brentbrowning01

Alright guys! I got the new water pump and New temp Sensors installed and the fans ARE working! Woop woop! I was VERY careful NOT to let any water got on my Optispark too! BUT now the car is running a little rough and the Check engine light is on. I know what you're going to say, "check the codes". I will later Wednesday but I think it's because of a vacuum line. I'm not really sure what it is. I've posted a few pics to let you see what I'm working with. The first is of my throttle body. Is there anything I can clean it with? Looks like some soot has built up on it a little.


Here's what I think is a vacuum line. This line is barely hanging on and doesn't look like it's secured very well. Maybe I need to put a zip tie or something on it.


And for the love of everything sacred, can someone please tell me what this thing is? I think it's something to do with the ignition, maybe the "Coil". Why is it so corroded?

brentbrowning01

I have no idea why the pics are upside down...

Injuneer

Are you sure you didn't tear the rubber inlet elbow? That would allow air to bypass the MAF sensor. Or, sometimes the bottom of the elbow doesn't slip over the throttle body, and you get an air leak there.

PHOTO 1:
The throttle body can be cleaned with "throttle body cleaner". Oil buildup is fairly common. Take the top cover off the throttle body and check for oil buildup. When you take the cover off, the gasket is going to be all shriveled up, and should be replaced:

Throttle Body and Air Intake Cleaner, 05078, CRC Industries

http://shbox.com/1/t_body_kit.jpg


PHOTO 2:
The metal to rubber connection is the vacuum source for the PCV valve. It doesn't need a clamp, but it should be connected better:

http://shbox.com/1/pcv_pipe.jpg


PHOTO 3:
Bottom picture, with rust and peeling black paint is the ignition coil.

You need to use Shoebox's site as a reference.... he has photos and diagrams of virtually everything you will ever need for a 1995 Z28:

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids

http://shbox.com/1/coil_loc.jpg

Appears you pulled the wire off the coil, and have it leaning against the side of the throttle body linkage cover.

The fuel line bundle is supposed to be held up off the hot exhaust components by a plastic clip that goes in the side of the throttle linkage cover, about where you have the coil wire resting. You need to tie the fuel bundle up to avoid the possibility of it resting on a hot component of the AIR system piping, and melting a fuel line.

brentbrowning01

Could that corroded coil nipple cause a constant misfire? Didn't get a chance to have codes ran on my car today. Ordered the cables to do it myself though using GaryDoug's program.


http://vid574.photobucket.com/albums...26_1614143.mp4

If this video link works, it's a video of the sound my car is making. Maybe you've heard this noise. Sounds like a helicopter in my motor.

Nevermind all the stickers under my hood. I plan on taking those off. I put those on there back in the day when I thought it was cool to have stickers under the hood.

rudysierra

Did you solve your fan problem? I am in the same boat as you with my 94 LT1. Changed radiator, water pump, thermostat and all sensors. Fans only turn on with A/C, but not at 220. Also have engine light at 180 and fans turn on with engine light. Mechanic ran codes and told me EGR valve replacement would solve all my problems. Perhaps yours as well. I don't think so, but I will try it anyway. Maybe it will work for you as well.

Injuneer

You might want to pull your own codes using Scan 9495. There are 2 codes for the EGR system - whicn code did he get?

Stock programming does not turn first fan (or both on low, depending on whether you have an "early" or "late" 94) until 226°F, 2nd fan (or both high) at 235°F. You will only know the actual temp the sensor in the water pump is reporting to the PCM by reading the PCM with a scanner or scan software like Scan9495.