Code 26 and 27
#1
Code 26 and 27
My car started throwing codes 26 and 27
26 = EVAP purge control solenoid circuit.
27 = EGR vacuum control solenoid circuit.
I'm pretty sure these are causing each other, since they were thrown at the same time. I recently replaced the EGR tube on the back of the passenger side manifold, but that shouldn't do this. I also replaced the AIR canister on the driver side of the engine bay.
What are some of the common causes of this? It was working perfectly before I replaced those things. I checked all electrical connections, and hosing connections. The car still runs, and idles fine, but after 30 seconds of start up it will throw these codes. Any help is appreciated.
edit: also if it matters, the car was ran with the replaced items off for a short period of time.
26 = EVAP purge control solenoid circuit.
27 = EGR vacuum control solenoid circuit.
I'm pretty sure these are causing each other, since they were thrown at the same time. I recently replaced the EGR tube on the back of the passenger side manifold, but that shouldn't do this. I also replaced the AIR canister on the driver side of the engine bay.
What are some of the common causes of this? It was working perfectly before I replaced those things. I checked all electrical connections, and hosing connections. The car still runs, and idles fine, but after 30 seconds of start up it will throw these codes. Any help is appreciated.
edit: also if it matters, the car was ran with the replaced items off for a short period of time.
#2
Re: Code 26 and 27
Both of those indicate electrical problems with the solenoid, or the wires to the solenoids. Check fuse #6 in the under hood box. Probably not that, because it also feeds several other devices that would set codes like the fan relays, and O2 heater circuits.
If the fuse is OK, key on, harness connector off the solenoid, check for 12V between the brown wire in the harness and a good ground. If you have 12V at that wire, check the resistance across the two pins of the solenoid. I think they are about 15 ohms. In any case, resistance should not be "0" and should not be extremely high.
What "AIR canister" did you replace? Do you mean you replaced the AIR pump?
Neither of those codes will noticeably affect the way the engine runs.
If the fuse is OK, key on, harness connector off the solenoid, check for 12V between the brown wire in the harness and a good ground. If you have 12V at that wire, check the resistance across the two pins of the solenoid. I think they are about 15 ohms. In any case, resistance should not be "0" and should not be extremely high.
What "AIR canister" did you replace? Do you mean you replaced the AIR pump?
Neither of those codes will noticeably affect the way the engine runs.
#3
Re: Code 26 and 27
I can't believe I didn't think to check fuses. #6 was blown, replaced it and the codes are gone. I was going insane trying to figure out what changed from the replaced parts. And yes I meant the AIR pump, not canister. Thanks for the great details Injuneer.
I do have another problem with the temp sensor in the driver side head, though. I replaced that also since the female connector housing was almost completely gone and the male connector was barely staying on. Since then the in dash temp gauge has been going in to the red within a couple minutes. Scanning the car I can read the temp sensor in the water pump being 190*F when the gauge is saying 260+. I am guessing I have an air bubble in the coolant line/head to cause this, and will drain/bleed the system just to make sure, and will also be reading the resistance across the head and pump sensors. If anyone has any other ideas on this it would also be helpful.
I do have another problem with the temp sensor in the driver side head, though. I replaced that also since the female connector housing was almost completely gone and the male connector was barely staying on. Since then the in dash temp gauge has been going in to the red within a couple minutes. Scanning the car I can read the temp sensor in the water pump being 190*F when the gauge is saying 260+. I am guessing I have an air bubble in the coolant line/head to cause this, and will drain/bleed the system just to make sure, and will also be reading the resistance across the head and pump sensors. If anyone has any other ideas on this it would also be helpful.
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