Injuneer

What manifold sensor is disconnected? MAP? Is there no longer a connector?

If the PCV hose if off the throttle body, can't you slide it back on? Use a hose clamp if it's loose. If the hose is cracked, it needs to be replaced.

At any point did you or the "mechanic" scan if for codes? Or is that what you mean by "Ill check car sensors"?

If the car was originally a V6, it's not a Z28. You need to include info like the motor has been swapped up front.

Where in the 1996 Owner's Manual does it say "Fuel gadgets are not good "?

AtlasXVIII

The PCV was disconected. Is now connected. whats the job of the PCV? Please let me know. I read that the Gas gadget goes up and down and that is complety normal. The car has a v6- v8 swap sorry... the car was swap complety Dif,trans, engine, wires all...

Injuneer

PCV stands for Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Engine vacuum is used to pull harmful blowby gasses from the crankcase. These gasses will condense in the oil and contaminate it with water, and form acids that attack bearings. The PCV valve is on the driver's side of the intake manifold. The line from the throttle body to the passenger valve cover provides filtered air, that has been passed through the MAF sensor. This is important, because the air ends up in the combustion chambers, and has to be accounted for to maintain the A/F ratio. The air is pulled through the crankcase by the vacuum at the PCV valve.

It's not a "gadget".... it's a "gauge".

The fuel level gauge will drift slightly up and down as you make turns, accelerate or stop. But it doesn't mean it is going to jump all over the place, or indicate 1/4-tank after only 15 miles of driving.

AtlasXVIII

I was in autozone and the check for problems and they found that the alternator was dead. In the way home the Temperature of the car was insane. It was 270 and then in the light drop to 150. I ran the car in 270+ for about a mile. The water from the radiator fly all over the engine and the coolant was smoking. Should I buy a Prestone Dex-Cool Extended Life Antifreeze/Coolant, 1gal 50/50 mix or without mix. I dont know how too bleed the car. Ive been having a lot of problems with the car. I was thinking to use it for daily use. Can I do so? Please help me! the mecanic will change the alternator tommorrow. It haves life warranty in Autozone.

Injuneer

You really need to get the car fully examined by a mechanic familiar with the LT1 engine. Sounds like a total disaster, and the average mechanic is simply not familiar with things like the reverse flow cooling system, the Opti-spark distributor/ignition system, and a few other quirks. Even Chevrolet dealers are not familiar with the engine.... it was only used in the Corvette and the Camaro, and production of the engine stopped 18 years ago. Most dealer mechanics have never seen one.

A scan of the computer (PCM) is definitely called for.

Since the gauge only goes to 260*F, appears you managed to totally overheat it. I would not recommend continuing to drive it until you get the fuel and cooling problems taken care of. You have to check all the hoses and the radiator to determine what sprung a leak. You indicate it's a 96 Z28, but the engine was transplanted from another car. What year is the engine? Not all years are completely the same, with breakpoints of 93, 94/95, and 96/97. Hose routings, for example differ.

96 was the first year for Dex-Cool. You can buy 50/50 mix and add it directly, or buy 100% Dex-Cool and add your own equal amount of distilled water. Shoebox has the drain and refill procedure. I would totally drain and flush the entire cooling system, since you probably have no idea what coolant the previous owner installed. Follow Shoebox's procedure, which includes the bleeding procedure:

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

AtlasXVIII

Ok Ill try that. if I get the 50/50 mix I have to put it in the radiator? or in the engine colant place? seams that the radiator haves low water!!! and the coolant stick have something like rust!!! is yellow. And can you show me were the optic spark is? in the Coolant only space, can I put water? whats your recommendation?

Injuneer

The level dipstick is in the reservoir. If that is rusty, it needs to be cleaned out. Problem is the reservoir is also the battery tray. You only put coolant in the reservoir AFTER you have filled the radiator correctly (which, in doing so, fills the engine block). When you are all done with that, fill the reservoir to the "COLD" line.

Before you do anything with regard to draining or filling the system, fill it with water and pressure test the system, which checks for leaks. No sense spending good money on new Dex-Cool, only to have to flow out all over the ground.

My recommendation is that, after checking for leaks and fixing any you find, you fully drain the existing coolant. That means you have to open the drain valve on the bottom of the radiator and pull the block drain plugs (one of which, the one on the passenger side, is the knock sensor). That gets all of the coolant out of the system. At that point, I would close the drain and reinstall the plugs, and fill it with water and a can of cooling system flush. Get it up to operating temp. That opens the thermostat and lets the water circulate, getting all the old coolant and crud out of the corners of the block, heater core, etc.

Pull the heater supply and return hoses off the water pump, and force water through the heater core with a garden hose in both directions to make sure it isn't plugged up.

WHILE DOING * * * ALL * * * OF THESE STEPS, PROTECT THE OPTISPARK DISTRIBUTOR FROM GETTING WET WITH COOLANT.

Then drain the dirty water out, same as you drained the old coolant. Run clean water through it again, to get the flush chemicals out.

From this point on, follow Shoebox's procedure. A lot of work, but the only way to insure you have a healthy cooling system. If you know a reliable auto repair shop, they may have cooling system pressure flush system, which would eliminate a lot of work, in turn for spending $$$$.

AtlasXVIII

I spoke with the first Owner and He told me the car has a 96' lt1 corvette engine. The radiator is also new. The fans are direct"they work all the time" The mecanic will do all the radiator flushing. The crank sensor is new, the water pump is new and haves all new, the engine was rectified. I think is the mix what you think? Ill let you know what my baby haves

AtlasXVIII

What is the normal oil PSI in lt1 engines ? Ive been getting over 50psi at cold start and 80 driving around it is normal? the psi goes up and down depending in traffic or highway!!!

Injuneer

I explained that in post #11.

AtlasXVIII

I bought a 150 amp alternator. I put it my self. The baby is like new. The mechanic ask for 70 just to get the alternator out. I think Im gonna do the flushing my self. One question boss. Lets say the temp is at 230 if I brake hard the temperature goes down to 150 What may be the problem?

AtlasXVIII

Hey can I fill my radiator with only water? the temp here is around 95-100

shoebox

That is an odd scenario. Never heard that one before. Perhaps air in the system.

Water only does not provide corrosion protection. Coolant and other radiator additives do. Coolant also raises the boiling point over plain water. Use a mixture.

Injuneer

No. The coolant does two things - lowers the freeze point to prevent freezing in cold weather, and increases the boiling point to prevent the coolant from boiling on hot spots in the engine, particularly in hot weather. You could go less coolant than a 50/50 mixture, and it will cool better, since water is better for heat transfer than coolant (ethylene glycol).

AtlasXVIII

I follow shoebox procedures and Flush the radiator. The radiator is empty and cant get coolant tomorrow. Tomorrow I have to drive around 50 miles and the temp here is insane hot. Lets say if I fill it with water only and Use it only one day. Do Ill get any problems? Waiting to get Dexcool and is out of stock.