speeding2fast2c

I'm not sure if anyone else has had this problem before, but if someone has and knows how to fix this, I could use the info.

I have a 1998 Camaro that has a rear window defroster. The rear window is tinted, but I don't think that is playing any effect on the problem I'm having. What happens is; I turn on the rear defroster, of course the light on the HVAC control head comes on. That light will go off after maybe a minute or two at most it seems like (haven't actually timed it). At that point when the light goes out, the window is no where near defrosted, though you can seem signs of it having started to warm up. Plus after the light goes out on the HVAC control head, I cannot push it and turn the light back on for probably 5-10 minutes. So, my rear window never really gets. My father's 2000 Camaro is the same way.

All of the defroster components are OEM. The rely is OEM, but not sure if it is the general one from the factory or if it has been replaced before.

I'm thinking I might need to change out the rely, or is this just the way the 4th gen Camaro defrosters work. I know my 1985 & 1990 Camaros defroster stays on for probably close to 10 minutes before the light goes out, and at that point the window is clear.

Please, any help or ideas would be very much appreciated! Thank you.

speeding2fast2c

Also, I forgot to mention that I have replace the HVAC control head on my 1998 because the blower speed **** had to be positioned between the 3rd and the 4th position to get it to blow on high. The issue with the defroster was the same with the old head unit as it is with the new head unit.

shoebox

All you have to do is search to find the many posts about the rear defogger. It is common to replace the 30A breaker with a 30A fuse. It seems resistance builds up in the circuit with age and the breaker cuts off too soon. The fuse may get hot and/or a little distorted, but will still provide adequate circuit protection. That normally "fixes" the issue of the defogger not staying on. I really don't know what it has to do with your other HVAC controls as the defogger is totally separate from that.

speeding2fast2c

I just mentioned that about the HVAC unit in case someone thought that I was getting a false indication with the light going off because of a bad switch that is built into the HVAC unit. Thank you for some advice, I'll try searching for the other posts.

speeding2fast2c

Ok, I've just spent so time looking over some of the other post about the rear defroster, and I have to say that i think the idea of replacing a circuit breaker with a fuse is a Bull**** fix.

How can you tell people that it will not affect the wiring or any other electrical issues, because it actually does! Keep in mind that you even mentioned that you don't use your defroster hardly at all. For that reason, sure a fuse will work for you, because you are also probably the person that will remember to turn if off. By putting a fuse in place of a circuit breaker, you are going completely against the reason a circuit breaker was put there in the first place.

A circuit breaker is designed to turn off so there will not be any damage to the circuit from OVER HEATING!!! If you over heat the defroster circuit, you are either going to damage the defroster grid itself, or you are going to melt down the fuse panel.

So pretty much the advice you are giving all of the other people could cause their vehicle to catch FIRE!!!! What the hell kind of advice is that?

What you should be telling people (and what I original thought might be the issue) is to just replace their circuit breaker with a NEW CIRCUIT BREAKER!!!! If it is the contacts in the circuit braker that goes bad over time, then it is the circuit breaker that should be replaced. If that is the issue, any other type of fix is just rigging it (kind of shady tree mechanic fixing it).

At least I now know NOT to listen to your advice on other issues in the future. THANKS!

kidscamaros

Hello, I'm new to site and am trying to find a answer to a rear defogger issue on a 2000 base I just bought my daughter. It appears there is power from the main connectors to the tabs but the window does not heat at all. Has anyone solved this one before? thanks

moparman

Speeding2fast, you just insulted one the most knowledgeable people on the board. I've used a fuse in mine for years with no problems. It turns off when it is supposed to. I did replace the circuit breaker with another circuit breaker when it started short timing. Guess what, the new circuit breaker did the same thing. That's when I went to the fuse.

You are right that some people have had the fuse overheat, but I don't know of anyone who had a fire. It's your call, try the circuit breaker or the fuse.

shoebox

Wow, where did this come from, LOL!

If speeding2fast knew anything, he would understand that a 30 amp fuse provides the same protection as a 30 amp circuit breaker-just without the convenience of resetting itself. If he chooses not to take any of my advice, that is ok with me. No one is forcing anyone and it won't bother me one bit.

BTW, a fuse has been in mine for 10 or more years. A new circuit breaker (tried first) did not help (just as moparman said).

Injuneer

Probably one of the most technically incorrect posts I've ever seen on this site. A fuse will trip when the circuit draws 30A. The breaker trips when the circuit draws 30A. Same protection against fire. The only difference is the breaker can be reset and reused, AFTER fixing the problem with the circuit, while the fuse must be replaced.

Serious case of "foot in mouth" disease.