andrewcapps82

I just recently purchased a 95 z28 6 speed car. The car has 140000 miles and run fine on my 200 mile trip home after having trailer problems. Today went to start it battery was dead were i left key on on accident. So i role started it and got it going idles and run fine. After letting it idle about 15 mins to let battery charge back up i revved it up two good times to about 4.500 to 5 grand. After doing so the car died so i popped the hood to find the tube after the MAF sensor had come off. Ive heard those sensors are very sencitive so i put tube back on it and didnt think nething about it. Got in it to leave it started fine idled fine pulled out in the road and it died. I finally got it back going by pressing the gas pedal alittle and it cranked and run fine for about 6 miles. Stopped at a buddys for about 30 mins and it done it again like to never got it to start then it started idleing up and down up and down. That kinda cleared up then idles real low like 500rpms or so. The first time it started this mess when if u hit the gas and it would have throttle for just a quick second then like it ran out of gas bt wouldnt die and when it died in the middle of the road when u turn the key to start it it would start and run for like 3 second and die out again.I did notice a plug wire was arcing so im gonna change them and plugs and test fuel pressure. Im just hopeing a simple fix. Any input would be greatly appreciated

Injuneer

Are you sure you got the rubber inlet elbow fully over the MAF sensor on one end, and the throttle body on the other? Isn't unusual for the bottom lip of the elbow to not slip correctly over the bottom of the throttle body flange. Did you inspect the elbow for tears? Any air that bypasses the MAF sensor is going to create problems. Is the MAF sensor installed facing in the correct direction?

Courtesy of Shoebox

http://shbox.com/1/maf.jpg

I'd would recommend not revving the engine to 5,000 RPM when it is not under load. There is no point in doing this.

Checking fuel pressure is a good idea. With engine idling, pull the vacuum compensation line off the fuel pressure regulator, pressure should be 43.5psi (GM accepts anything from 41-47psi as within spec). Reattach the vacuum line, and pressure should drop about 8psi below the "no vacuum" pressure. Tape the gauge to the windshield, take it out on the road, and check pressure at wide open throttle, above 5,000 RPM. Pressure should not drop below 40psi.

You should also scan it for codes. Difficult on a 95 because you have an OBD-1 PCM and an OBD-2 style 16-pin ALDL connector. You need an OBD-1 scanner. Auto Xray scanners are the most reliable. Innova will not work, because they have the wrong code table programmed into them for the LT1 engine.

For a more thorough analysis, download free Scan9495 software, buy a cable (ALDLCables or RedDevilRiiver), and run a data log of the PCM while the engine is experiencing it's problems. We can helpp you interpret the log.

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

GaryDoug

The Actron CP9185 scanner works for the 95 also. Prices vary widely. Look for some at $150. No need to buy the CP9127 OBD1 cable set for a 95. But you would need a 12vdc power adapter.

andrewcapps82

Thanks for the info everybody. Today when i got off i pulled off my buddies new short ram intake off his lt1 car MAF sensor and all. Car runs like a top other then i have one spark plug wire almost all the way in two peices. Theres another line that went into my factory elbow i havent looked into it bt could that be from the vent on the opti. Bt now onto another problem the car wheel hops like crazy jar your **** teeth out. Ive looked at a bunch of posts about about it but dont quite understand all of it. Im sure its some bushings bt whats the most common problem that causes the car to do so. The trans mount was broke when i got the car replaced it and it still does it.