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'94 z28 drivers window goes down, not up

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Old 06-02-2013, 11:04 PM
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'94 z28 drivers window goes down, not up

I got new doors for my car and they're all automatic and were priorly, just so messed up that new doors were the best option. Anyways, I got the passengers window working completely fine, but I have 2 dark blue wires coming from the car and from the door so a total of 4. The dark blue wires are for the window up on the drivers side. I tried every combination, but I just can't get it to move up. The window goes down completely fine, and the passengers side works perfect, but I don't understand why the drivers side window won't go up. The writes are cut at the hinge are and I obviously have it grounded seeing as each window is a 3 wire system of 1 up, 1 down, 1 ground. If anybody has had this issue and knows how to fix it please reply. It keeps ringing and I kinda need to stop covering my car with a tarp.
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Old 06-03-2013, 09:04 AM
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Re: '94 z28 drivers window goes down, not up

here is the schematic ref shbox.com , good site to know... http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg
To get left window up you need +12 on dark blue leaving pin 'D' of switch and ground that starts at pin 'E' gray wire goes to window express module, passes through NC points of express relay, exits brown wire and goes to window motor pin 'B' brown wire. Looking at the schematic splice S263 is under the dash all the Dk blue wires are always at the same potential. One dk blue goes to express mod other two go to door grommet P500 one to switch and one to motor. The dk blue wires can be at +12 or ground... they are +12 volts for left window switch up and at ground when not activating left window switch and also when left window switch is activated in down position.

Last edited by bobdec; 06-03-2013 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 06-03-2013, 01:59 PM
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Re: '94 z28 drivers window goes down, not up

Originally Posted by bobdec
here is the schematic ref shbox.com , good site to know... http://shbox.com/1/pwr_window_schematic.jpg
To get left window up you need +12 on dark blue leaving pin 'D' of switch and ground that starts at pin 'E' gray wire goes to window express module, passes through NC points of express relay, exits brown wire and goes to window motor pin 'B' brown wire. Looking at the schematic splice S263 is under the dash all the Dk blue wires are always at the same potential. One dk blue goes to express mod other two go to door grommet P500 one to switch and one to motor. The dk blue wires can be at +12 or ground... they are +12 volts for left window switch up and at ground when not activating left window switch and also when left window switch is activated in down position.
O shbox has been my lifesaver since i got this car. I was looking at the schematic before though and I just don't see what needs to go where to get the window to go up.
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Old 06-03-2013, 03:31 PM
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Re: '94 z28 drivers window goes down, not up

Alright, I just figured out today that if all blue wires aren't connected it won't go down even. So, I'm gonna pull the switch up and check if the contacts are all intact.
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Old 06-03-2013, 10:22 PM
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Re: '94 z28 drivers window goes down, not up

If the window goes down when the switch is press for Down, then you have the correct connections to the motor. The window goes up when the switch reverses those connections to the motor (ground to +12v, and +12v to ground). I think your problem is with the switch.

All 4 dark blue wires will be connected together, but you can just connect any dark blue one in the door to any dark blue one in the body, then do the same with the other two. The wiring in the body takes care of connecting them all together.

Last edited by GaryDoug; 06-03-2013 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:59 PM
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Re: '94 z28 drivers window goes down, not up

I checked the switch and as far as I can tell, everything is fine. Also, when I bought the doors the windows were up, so if the previous owner had this issue I feel like the windows wouldn't have been completely up. Especially with no signs of previous tampering when I took the door panels off. Somebody told me it might be a safety feature since I haven't completely hooked up the switch. The window area is fully hooked up, but the power mirrors and door locks aren't done because I managed to loose wires during the installation. (I took the door panels off to locate and push out the wires) Once I catch some time between work and school I'm gonna try completing the wiring and trying it out.
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