93 3.4L V6 Starting Problem
#1
93 3.4L V6 Starting Problem
Did you ever find the problem?? I've been dealing with this same issue for about 3 weeks. Battery is new, alternator, starter, coils, everything. Any help would be awesome.
#2
Re: turns over very slow
"jeffroz28" has not returned to this site since the post above, 3.5 years ago.
What year is your LT1? Is the engine stock? Have you checked the battery cables and connections for corrosion?
What year is your LT1? Is the engine stock? Have you checked the battery cables and connections for corrosion?
#3
Re: turns over very slow
Its a 93 v6 3.4L. I have checked them, although I guess I could make a deeper examination of the state of the cables. The engine is KINDA stock.. that's where it all comes from.
I bought the car a few months ago and it already had problems to start, had to click it a few times, until the engine would turn. Apparently it had damaged sensor (those were the exact words I was told) but the guy didn't have the money to fix it, so they put a resistance on it and that would allow him to turn the car on.
What I notice is that it has the purple theft deterrent cable, but additional they put a black cable to where to purple goes to. Not only that, they also took a brown cable from the wiring and added a cable to it so both the black and brown would reach a resistance.
Right I'm trying to figure out what the brown cable does. Either the brown or the black will make the car try to start when connected to the positive pole of the battery.
Furthermore, I've read on a lot of posts that it could be the "fan" relay that could be damaged, since that relay manages also the alternator and surprise surprise, they had the relay direct to the battery and covered with masking tape, because apparently the cover of it was broken...
So that's what I'm dealing with right now..
#4
Re: turns over very slow
If it's a 3.4L V6, you posted on the wrong forum. I'll move your post and this replay to the "General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech" forum.
The "damaged sensor" sounds more like a problem with the PASS-Key system - the resistor chip on the ignition key. Faulty key, damaged lock cylinder or lock cylinder wiring problems will prevent the system from reading the resistor in the key correctly, the "SECURITY" light would come on, and the engine would not crank, and the fuel system is disabled. The system can be bypassed by getting a resistor that matches the one on the ignition key, and wiring it into the wires coming from the lock cylinder.
Shoebox had a diagram of what needs to be done:
http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg
The wires from the PASS-Key resistor go to the PASS-Key Decoder Module. If the resistance matches, that sends a signal to the Starter Enable Relay, the relay energizes and provides the 12V power to the starter solenoid, via a purple wire.
The PASS-Key module also sends a signal to the ECM that tells it it's OK to turn on the fuel system.
Where is the wire that you call "the purple theft deterrent cable"? There is a purple wire, mentioned above, that comes from the starter relay, and goes to the solenoid on the starter. Attaching 12V to that connection on the solenoid would allow it to activate the starter. There is a factory wiring black wire that starts at the battery and goes to the solenoid.
As far as the fan relay controlling the alternator, not even sure what you mean. The fan relay gets a signal from the ECM to turn on the radiator fan. It has four wires - switched power to the control side of the relay, a ground supplied by the ECM to the control side of the relay, a heavy red wire direct from the 12V terminal box near the battery, and a heavy black ground wire to the chassis.
The only things connected to the alternator are the heavy red wire to the battery, and the thin red wire to the dash instruments.
I have the 93 factory service manual, and that's what it shows.
The "damaged sensor" sounds more like a problem with the PASS-Key system - the resistor chip on the ignition key. Faulty key, damaged lock cylinder or lock cylinder wiring problems will prevent the system from reading the resistor in the key correctly, the "SECURITY" light would come on, and the engine would not crank, and the fuel system is disabled. The system can be bypassed by getting a resistor that matches the one on the ignition key, and wiring it into the wires coming from the lock cylinder.
Shoebox had a diagram of what needs to be done:
http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg
The wires from the PASS-Key resistor go to the PASS-Key Decoder Module. If the resistance matches, that sends a signal to the Starter Enable Relay, the relay energizes and provides the 12V power to the starter solenoid, via a purple wire.
The PASS-Key module also sends a signal to the ECM that tells it it's OK to turn on the fuel system.
Where is the wire that you call "the purple theft deterrent cable"? There is a purple wire, mentioned above, that comes from the starter relay, and goes to the solenoid on the starter. Attaching 12V to that connection on the solenoid would allow it to activate the starter. There is a factory wiring black wire that starts at the battery and goes to the solenoid.
As far as the fan relay controlling the alternator, not even sure what you mean. The fan relay gets a signal from the ECM to turn on the radiator fan. It has four wires - switched power to the control side of the relay, a ground supplied by the ECM to the control side of the relay, a heavy red wire direct from the 12V terminal box near the battery, and a heavy black ground wire to the chassis.
The only things connected to the alternator are the heavy red wire to the battery, and the thin red wire to the dash instruments.
I have the 93 factory service manual, and that's what it shows.
Last edited by Injuneer; 11-25-2015 at 11:12 AM.
#5
Re: 93 3.4L V6 Starting Problem
The smaller cable going to the solenoid in my car is purple one, (disregard the theft relay thing I said before).
And I still don't know what the brown cable is from. When I get home I'll try to post a pic.
I understand that what you said before is what they tried to do, but the connections are different as the resistor (12V) goes to the alternator and to the elusive brown cable.
And I still don't know what the brown cable is from. When I get home I'll try to post a pic.
I understand that what you said before is what they tried to do, but the connections are different as the resistor (12V) goes to the alternator and to the elusive brown cable.
#7
#9
Re: 93 3.4L V6 Starting Problem
Go to the "Site Help and Suggestions" forum. There's a sticky at the top of the page with instructions on how to create albums and upload photos. After you have the photos uploaded, you can click on a picture and get the link to embed in your post.
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