tehhijack

I found out there are fusable links next to the battery so i will check those next before investing in new coils. I'll be back with the results. Thanks for the advice injuneer

tehhijack

Fusable links all checked good with a continuity test. I tried jumping the starter with a screwdriver and it turned but i think i positioned wrong because i heard a gear grind a a little so i'll have to take it back off and reposition it. Still will not crank. are there any hidden starter relays somewhere? I checked under the hood and in the interior fuse box and could not find one.

Injuneer

The theft deterrent relay (TDR) is between the ignition switch and the starter. If the theft deterrent module (TDM) gets the correct resistance from the key, it sends a ground to the TDR to activate it. The TDR is located to the right of the glove box, attached to the metal structure of the dash.

All this comes from a "how to" at shbox.com

Click on "Tech Page"

Click on "How To's"

Scroll down to #25.

tehhijack

That was the guide i used to bypass the VATS with the resistor. I will take out the TDR tomorrow and switch it out with another one. I will report back with the results.

tehhijack

I just jumped the yellow and purple wire and nothing.... I will check for power on the yellow wire tomorrow, it is getting late. When i turn the key the "low trac" light flashes, would that be something that would prevent it from starting? I know the low trac is something with the ABS. My ABS wires that go to the wheels were cut for some reason by the previous owner. I will see if i can get another neutral safety switch, maybe that is what's causing all of this.

tehhijack

I do not have 12v going to the yellow wire on the TDR, i do however have 12V on the red wire from the ignition switch. Where does the yellow wire come from? I am hoping all of this is just a loose connection somewhere. I am getting power to the starter, if i jump the small purple wire to the big wire it cranks.

tehhijack

Another $22 down the drain. Replaced the TDR and still no crank

Injuneer

Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg

http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic.jpg

Yellow wire at TDR comes from the ignition switch "start" position

The only red wire at the ignition switch is the red wire that supplies 12V to the ignition switch. That comes from one of the fusible links. The circuit splits before the ignition switch, and also supplies the RAP module and the I/P fuse block.

Injuneer

Where did you measure 11.95 volts? If it was at the battery terminals, it is not necessarily the same as what the dash gauge would show. And there's no way you could determine that the gauge read 11.95 volts.

Somehow I don't think the 12 volts from the battery is reaching the starter. Is it possible when you crimped on the new battery terminals, there was wire insulation in there that is isolating power to the starter, or even reducing the area of metal contact to the point where as soon as the starter attempts to pull a couple hundred amps, the voltage drop seriously?

tehhijack

I measured the 11.95 volts at the battery terminals while cranking. I stripped the insulation about an inch back on both sides and used a big crimp? or whatever it's called. If you think that might be the issue i can cut it off and solder the connection.

tehhijack

Soldered the cables and no change. A friend of mine said the same thing happened to him when he tried extending the cables, replacing them with a single cable solved his problem. I am thinking that might be my issue. It's worth a try seeing how ive tried everything in the book.