ebonez28

Hello,
I recently got a new yellow top Optima and reloctated it to the spare tire well.
Shortly after my starter started acting up. It will click rappidly when turning the key to start.
Some times it starts right up, and sometimes it takes several tries.

Volts are great at all locations.
When putting 12v to starter solinoid control (purple), the engine cranks fine.

Im thinking it would have to be the the power from the ignition switch. Maybe the switch itself, or a connection inbetween the switch and starter solinoid.

I read someone on here had a burnt connection causing the same problems, but couldnt find the post..

Were are some connections to check the ignition switch?

Thanks for all the help.
And Please call me if you want to share some info, or need more.
707 207 5147

ebonez28

So I have traced the wiring from starter solinoid back in to the car.

Checked the connector C210, applied power the and starter cranks, no clicks.

Reconnected and traced up to the TDR. Have power on YEL, and BWN with key to start.

I gave the YEL/BLK wire from the BCM a ground while I started it and cranked and started right up.

I checked for ground on the YEL/BLK wire from the BCM with the key in Start, and had no continuity to ground.

It looks like the BCM is only giving me an intermittant ground for the TDR.

Can just the Start Enable side of the BCM be acting up (half of the time) ? While the Fuel Enable side works fine all the time?

It looks like I could just bypass the the TDR, But I would like to know what is really going wrong.


Thanks for and help.

ebonez28

So I was doing some more trouble shooting.

Checked the YEL/BLK wire from TDR to the BCM plug and it got cood continuity.

So while I had it all hooked back up, I tried cranking the engine and nothing happended at all. I wiggled the TDR while i still had the key in Start, and it started cranking.

So I kept trying to crank the engine while moving the TDR around. And it kept cutting in and out.

So I picked up another TDR and its still doing the same thing.

Is there ANY way to check the BCM for the Start Enable ground, and What would make it intermitant?

Thanks for any info you can share about this.

ebonez28

So no one has any ideas? I guess I could just try and replece the Body Control Module. Currently I just have the TDR bypassed with jumper pins.

Is that going to cause any problems if I just run it like that?

Running it like that does also bypass the clutch swith. Do track tech inspectors check for an opperational clutch switch?

Thanks

bobdec

Here is the schematic from a '95 ref shbox.com. The '95 has a TDM not a BCM as the '96 does, Unfortunately I do not have a '96 wiring diagram. However the theory should be the same, if you disconnected the yel/black wire from TDR to the BCM and tied the TDR end to ground. The TDR relay will always pick when key is in start AND clutch is depressed, this would keep the clutch safety switch in the circuit. Wire colors may vary between years, but the overall theory should hold for your situation. http://shbox.com/1/pass_key.jpg . Also what gauge wires did you use to relocate the battery, did you check voltage when cranking (9 V or better), a extra low cranking voltage could maybe cause the BCM or TDR to become fussy, that's just a guess..

Injuneer

Shoebox has several 96 diagrams:

Starter/Charging:

http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg

BCM:

http://shbox.com/1/bcm_1996.jpg

Ignition switch, showing TDM:

http://shbox.com/1/ignswschematic96.jpg

bobdec

Thanks, Fred, After going back and looking harder I found the schematics, must have gazed by them a hundred times w/o seeing.

ebonez28

Thanks for the replies, and sorry for my delayed response.

Bobdec, I did end up just grounding the BLK/YEL wire from the TDR, So I would still have my clutch switch.

I used 1/0 wire from Batt to Starter, and 2 gauge from Starter to Power dist block. And 2 gauge from Alt back to Batt side of kill switch.

Battery voltage at starter Only drops to 11.9 while cranking (Brand new Yellow top)

But It just seams like the BCM is giving and intermitant ground.

Not sure if I want to replace the BCM and see if that fixes it, Or run it as it is. I have went over all those schematics and checked the wires all the way up to the BCM. But I see no way to trouble shoot farther into the BCM with just the Start Enable side acting up, and not the Fuel enable.

Thanks for all the help.

bobdec

Don't forget 'fuel enable' is a 50 or 60 Hz (can't recall exactly) +5V/0V square wave signal to the PCM that signals the PCM to pick (or kill if not there) the injectors, and can be programmed out (VAT's delete). My guess it would read about 2 volts on a multimeter AC setting, but I never tried it. It's completely different circuitry within the BCM than the TDR activate. The TDR pick is a 0V DC probably 200 or less Ma current to the relay. Could be just the TDR line from the BCM has a bad circuit driver. If BCM was dropping out completely, it may cause security light to act weird, but that's not guaranteed. You must have a custom tune, is VATs disabled by any chance.