No spark at coil
02-27-2007, 01:21 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
No spark at coil
Re: 1995 Camaro z28 (71,000 miles)
I’m trouble shooting an ignition problem.
It started after exiting the highway the car stalled after stopping at red light, then it restarted and I was able to drive home. Next morning car started for a few min. then died… then re-started and ran for 5 min. then died again and kept running less and less to the point where it would not start for a week!
I removed the coil-wire and was getting NO spark at the coil, so I replaced the coil… car ran 2 min. then died out again!!!!!!
I then replaced the coil module, and car ran for 15 seconds then died.
The ground connections at the coil posts are clean and have solid connections at the coil. (double checked)
The power lead (red) wire (right side black connector ) that plugs into the coil was replaced (with a new one) and is supplying 12-volts (with the ignition on) to the coil.
Fuel is flowing to the rails (with ignition on) I have NO blown fuses, No trouble codes however did pull a (Code 16- Low resolution pulse) at one part of the diagnoses then it disappeared.
Because of the Low resolution pulse (according to the GM Service manual (page 6E3-C4-7) I narrowed it down to:
A) Faulty Ignition Control Connection at PCM
B) Open Ignition Control Circuit
C) Faulty PCM
I Failed to locate any faulty connections at the PCM so I ran a Ignition Control (DCT 41) check.
It failed test one, less than ¼ volt pulse output (while cranking) on ICM connector “B” far less than the 1-4 volt pulse needed to fire up the coil!
After checking for continuity between PCM (B5) Ignition Control harness connector and Ignition Control Module connector “B” it had no continuity and failed step two.
The service manual diagnosed this problem as an Open Ignition Control Circuit between PCM and Ignition Control Module.
Using a long flat screwdriver, I pressed down on the Optispark connection harness connection and then the car started up and ran like a humming bird for over 1 hour.
This morning it started and ran perfectly until I touched that Optispark connection harness connection again… now the car won’t start!!!
I ordered a new Optispark connection harness connection and hope it fixes my problem.
What do you guys think?
I’m trouble shooting an ignition problem.
It started after exiting the highway the car stalled after stopping at red light, then it restarted and I was able to drive home. Next morning car started for a few min. then died… then re-started and ran for 5 min. then died again and kept running less and less to the point where it would not start for a week!
I removed the coil-wire and was getting NO spark at the coil, so I replaced the coil… car ran 2 min. then died out again!!!!!!
I then replaced the coil module, and car ran for 15 seconds then died.
The ground connections at the coil posts are clean and have solid connections at the coil. (double checked)
The power lead (red) wire (right side black connector ) that plugs into the coil was replaced (with a new one) and is supplying 12-volts (with the ignition on) to the coil.
Fuel is flowing to the rails (with ignition on) I have NO blown fuses, No trouble codes however did pull a (Code 16- Low resolution pulse) at one part of the diagnoses then it disappeared.
Because of the Low resolution pulse (according to the GM Service manual (page 6E3-C4-7) I narrowed it down to:
A) Faulty Ignition Control Connection at PCM
B) Open Ignition Control Circuit
C) Faulty PCM
I Failed to locate any faulty connections at the PCM so I ran a Ignition Control (DCT 41) check.
It failed test one, less than ¼ volt pulse output (while cranking) on ICM connector “B” far less than the 1-4 volt pulse needed to fire up the coil!
After checking for continuity between PCM (B5) Ignition Control harness connector and Ignition Control Module connector “B” it had no continuity and failed step two.
The service manual diagnosed this problem as an Open Ignition Control Circuit between PCM and Ignition Control Module.
Using a long flat screwdriver, I pressed down on the Optispark connection harness connection and then the car started up and ran like a humming bird for over 1 hour.
This morning it started and ran perfectly until I touched that Optispark connection harness connection again… now the car won’t start!!!
I ordered a new Optispark connection harness connection and hope it fixes my problem.
What do you guys think?
Last edited by zlighting; 03-08-2007 at 07:53 PM.
02-27-2007, 05:02 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 27,709
Could be a corroded opti harness. If there is corrosion on the opti end, you will need to try to clean that out before you put that new harness on or the corrosion will begin to eat up your new harness.
02-27-2007, 05:23 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
Rob,
You’re 100% correct!!!
I pulled the optispark harness (it was really stuck in there with corrosion and all the contacts were so very severely corroded.
Looking down into the optspark I can see the contacts lightly (greenly) corroded however not as nearly as bad as the harness connector.
I was thinking spraying a little contact cleaner down there, could that hurt?
You’re 100% correct!!!
I pulled the optispark harness (it was really stuck in there with corrosion and all the contacts were so very severely corroded.
Looking down into the optspark I can see the contacts lightly (greenly) corroded however not as nearly as bad as the harness connector.
I was thinking spraying a little contact cleaner down there, could that hurt?
Last edited by zlighting; 02-27-2007 at 09:37 PM.
02-27-2007, 07:47 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
I was thinking of that too... dielectric grease should help reduce corosion.
The AC-Delco Optispark currently on my "Z" was replaced 5-1/2 years ago and has about 30,000 miles of use.
When the connections were soild, the car ran very snappy so I'm thinking the optispark still has some life to it, fingers crossed.
I'll have the new optispark harness this Friday, so I'll let you know if that fixes the problem which I'm optimistic it will.
The AC-Delco Optispark currently on my "Z" was replaced 5-1/2 years ago and has about 30,000 miles of use.
When the connections were soild, the car ran very snappy so I'm thinking the optispark still has some life to it, fingers crossed.
I'll have the new optispark harness this Friday, so I'll let you know if that fixes the problem which I'm optimistic it will.
Last edited by zlighting; 03-14-2007 at 08:26 AM.
03-01-2007, 08:23 PM
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
Well, I’m expecting to receive the new optispark harness tomorrow, and have made progress cleaning up the optspark’s contacts by using electrical contact cleaner.
However I used way too much (contact cleaner) and had to siphon the excess liquid out of both vent hoses, then blew out the vapor.
Using a mirror and flashlight I was able to get a crystal clear close-up inspection of the contacts, there now 90% cleaner and have shiny spots!
Since I removed the TB, I thought now would be a good time to replace that old coil wire with brand new Taylor 8mm wire.
However I used way too much (contact cleaner) and had to siphon the excess liquid out of both vent hoses, then blew out the vapor.
Using a mirror and flashlight I was able to get a crystal clear close-up inspection of the contacts, there now 90% cleaner and have shiny spots!
Since I removed the TB, I thought now would be a good time to replace that old coil wire with brand new Taylor 8mm wire.
Last edited by zlighting; 03-03-2007 at 03:35 PM.
03-02-2007, 07:10 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
Today started off as a bad day... First UPS delivered the Air package at the end of the day… second the harness would not plug-in near the dipstick.
The first thing I noticed is that the wiring colors on the new harness (GM Part #12130319) were different from my original connector, and the harness would not plug in because it was slightly different internally with two groves.
After checking the GM service manual, the wiring codes on the new harness were actually correct however still that connector was different so I poped the pins and used my original test connector.
I used a little dielectric grease on the new harness connector and put everything back together and the car started right up!
It's running very smooth with no hesitation at W.O.T. so it appears the only thing wrong was a corroded harness connector at the optispark.
Rob, thanks for your help!
The first thing I noticed is that the wiring colors on the new harness (GM Part #12130319) were different from my original connector, and the harness would not plug in because it was slightly different internally with two groves.
After checking the GM service manual, the wiring codes on the new harness were actually correct however still that connector was different so I poped the pins and used my original test connector.
I used a little dielectric grease on the new harness connector and put everything back together and the car started right up!
It's running very smooth with no hesitation at W.O.T. so it appears the only thing wrong was a corroded harness connector at the optispark.
Rob, thanks for your help!
Last edited by zlighting; 03-14-2007 at 08:28 AM.
03-07-2007, 10:48 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
Has anyone had, or heard of a bad optispark that did NOT pull a service code?
Today it happened again!
Car was running great until today, in fact last night I drove 40 min in sub zero temps. here in NY however knowing my “Z” it did appear to have a very slight hesitation when stopping at lights like it wanted to stall these past days.
Today, while at a red light the car stalled then restarted, then 1 min. latter it stalled again while driving then restarted a second time.
I managed to get the car off the street into a AZ parking lot where I wanted to replenish a low level of coolant which is not normal for my car, (It was like this last week) reservoir was empty and I added a little less than ½-gal 50/50 mix total while the car was running, then it died for good!!!!! (Glad I renewed my AAA Gold membership) car was flat-bedded home.
My optspark filter/reducer was clogged (I was aware of this the other day) and had a new vent harness on order, so I’m thinking that helped kill off my optispark which was already severely corroded, however I can’t pull any current or history code’s 16 or 36!
Has anyone had, or heard of a bad optispark that did NOT pull a service code?
Car was running great until today, in fact last night I drove 40 min in sub zero temps. here in NY however knowing my “Z” it did appear to have a very slight hesitation when stopping at lights like it wanted to stall these past days.
Today, while at a red light the car stalled then restarted, then 1 min. latter it stalled again while driving then restarted a second time.
I managed to get the car off the street into a AZ parking lot where I wanted to replenish a low level of coolant which is not normal for my car, (It was like this last week) reservoir was empty and I added a little less than ½-gal 50/50 mix total while the car was running, then it died for good!!!!! (Glad I renewed my AAA Gold membership) car was flat-bedded home.
My optspark filter/reducer was clogged (I was aware of this the other day) and had a new vent harness on order, so I’m thinking that helped kill off my optispark which was already severely corroded, however I can’t pull any current or history code’s 16 or 36!
Has anyone had, or heard of a bad optispark that did NOT pull a service code?
03-08-2007, 04:11 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
Thanks Rob… That’s what I needed to hear!
I really don't know what else it could be other than the optispark... I have heard some strange wining noises when the car was started (cold ) behind the water pump for some time now that has only gotten worse lately.
I tryed to save the optispark, however according to the service manual, it clearly states any evidence of antifreeze or corrosion, the optispark must be replaced with a new one.
Positively at some point in time; antifreeze accidentally seeped into the wiring harness from the bleeder valve above, and yes I did siphon out antifreeze from the vent harness last week, as much as 3 shot glasses mixed with contact cleaner, now add the fact I had a clogged optispark filter… I think way too much pressure built up inside the optispark, and caused it to fail becuase it had no vent.
I’ll have a new GM optispark on Monday and new ACDelco water pump Tuesday so I’m projecting the car should be up and running by Wednesday or earlier. (fingers crossed)
I’ll keep you updated!
I really don't know what else it could be other than the optispark... I have heard some strange wining noises when the car was started (cold ) behind the water pump for some time now that has only gotten worse lately.
I tryed to save the optispark, however according to the service manual, it clearly states any evidence of antifreeze or corrosion, the optispark must be replaced with a new one.
Positively at some point in time; antifreeze accidentally seeped into the wiring harness from the bleeder valve above, and yes I did siphon out antifreeze from the vent harness last week, as much as 3 shot glasses mixed with contact cleaner, now add the fact I had a clogged optispark filter… I think way too much pressure built up inside the optispark, and caused it to fail becuase it had no vent.
I’ll have a new GM optispark on Monday and new ACDelco water pump Tuesday so I’m projecting the car should be up and running by Wednesday or earlier. (fingers crossed)
I’ll keep you updated!
Last edited by zlighting; 03-14-2007 at 08:32 AM.
03-11-2007, 05:09 AM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
Quick update…
I’m almost at the optispark, just need to pull the harmonic balancer on Sunday.
I had a bitch of a time with the (top right) water-pump bolt which was frozen, in fact I really thought it was going to break… lucky, I got it out after heating up the bolt.
Also, I located the source of my antifreeze leak… all the other water pump bolts loosened up, and the gasket seals were soaked; so there’s nothing to scrape off the block!
Now I know why I was getting a on/off low level coolant indicator light for the past year… It’s amazing the optispark lasted this long!
I’m almost at the optispark, just need to pull the harmonic balancer on Sunday.
I had a bitch of a time with the (top right) water-pump bolt which was frozen, in fact I really thought it was going to break… lucky, I got it out after heating up the bolt.
Also, I located the source of my antifreeze leak… all the other water pump bolts loosened up, and the gasket seals were soaked; so there’s nothing to scrape off the block!
Now I know why I was getting a on/off low level coolant indicator light for the past year… It’s amazing the optispark lasted this long!
Last edited by zlighting; 03-13-2007 at 05:27 PM.
03-13-2007, 05:26 PM
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New York State
Posts: 45
Rob,
I got it running today.
Turns out it was a cap/rotor problem; which is why I could not pull a trouble code.
Also, I found the main cause of my optispark failure, a disconnected vent hose at the intake manifold.
The information on your website was very helpful.
Thanks!
I got it running today.
Turns out it was a cap/rotor problem; which is why I could not pull a trouble code.
Also, I found the main cause of my optispark failure, a disconnected vent hose at the intake manifold.
The information on your website was very helpful.
Thanks!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dbusch22
Forced Induction
6
10-31-2016 11:09 AM