jammer94

hello can anyone help me here...

Injuneer

My setup loses pressure on shutdown. The Weldon AFPR is not designed to hold pressure on shutoff.

jammer94

i am running the aeromotive part # 13101 will this regualtor do the same Fred? do you know if other regulators do the same?

cause its exactly what mine is doing right after shutdown it losses pressure drops to the bottom with no pressure whatsoever.

jammer94

i see its going to be hard to get info on BIG BOY fuel systems up on here as i am getting hardly any advice....what gives..

Injuneer

You have to be a bit more patient.... this isn't a question like what CAI is the best, that 90% of the members think they can answer.

I know I can't spend my entire waking hours on these forums. I don't know if the Aeromotive AFPR's release the pressure. The logical answer would be to ask Aeromotive directly. It might provide you with an answer a bit faster, since we can't meet your demands.

Good luck.

The SRZ

My Fuelab regulator looses pressure as well after the key is turned off. It also takes 2-3 keys to prime the sucker too. No biggie. I got a aeromotive check valve in place now so it doesn't instantly lose pressure at key off. The check valve though really shines through when in boost and not loosing pressure.

jammer94

what check valve are you speaking of do you have a link of it somewhere.

The SRZ

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

jammer94

awesome so with this the system will hold pressure like stock after its turned off as i found out my aeromotive setup will do the same as what you guys are using on you cars.

i am picking one of these up tomorrow and plumbing it in, if i disconnect the fuel line in front of the pump as i have it sumped to my a1000 will fuel start puring out or just whats in the line will come out and be held back by the fuel pump? also can this be plumbed after the pump and both filters since thats where i have space to put it or else i would have to redo my lines out back?where can it and cant it be placed.

jammer94

does it matter where i plumb this into my system the only place where i can add it to is after the fuel pump as i already have all my line pre made already.?someone told me to put it on the return side but i am using the factory feed plastic line as my return so i cant add it to there. so i was going to add it after pump but before the fuel filter after the pump.

limige

no put it on the feed side...

heres some tips.
your gonna have to diconnect the system sooner or later, put shutoff valves on your tank.
i would connect the check valve right after your shutoff. if you disconnec there it won't allow the fuel to come out of the line onto the ground and the shutoff will stop the fuel in the tank from coming out.

then your prefilter and onto your pump.


here' my problem. i welded bulkheads into the tank for the feed and return. i'm having cavitation issues when the fuel is somewhat low, especially on hot days in city driving.

whats the best way to tap into the tank without cavitation? our tanks are shaped funny for normal sumps. i'm assuming i'd have to add some baffling inside but that would be tricky, its hard to work in the tank like that.

any thoughts?


i tapped into the factory wire were it meets the body for my relay on/off, ran 10 gauge back from the battery and grounded to the frame. i made the mistake of wrapping my power line around my braided fuel line. i had a fire at the track above my relay. not entirely sure why but have some thoughts.

coiling wire is a bad idea. especially with metal inside, you create point of resistance and some heat.
braided line could also eat through the insulation. bad idea again.

i think between the two my power shorted some how, although my braided line looks fine. i bypassed the relay and was able to drive it home but the wire leading into my tank are toasted.


btw, what size fuse does aeromotive call for on the A1000...it has to be fused.

remember to use a 10gauge ground to the pump, thats a must, don't skimp on your grounds.

pics can be seen in link in sig

Injuneer

Always risky to put "devices" in the pump suction line, between the tank and the pump. Any pressure loss there increases the chances of fuel vaoprization and cavitation. Assuming the fuel is at atmospheric pressure in the tank, once the pressure loss in the pump suction line drops the pressure below the vapor pressure of the fuel, its going to flash to vapor. As the fuel heats up, the point at which it flashes approaches atmospheric pressure. And the fuel in the tank will heat up simply from being pump repeatedly through a recirculation loop. Make sure there is no exhaust heat adjacent to the fuel tank, or adjacent to the fuel lines.

The exit from the tank should not have a sharp edge. A radiused "high flow" fitting is preferred. The suction line should be at least a -10AN. 90's should be avoided. If you have a valve, is it a full-area valve when it is open (e.g. line bore ball valve). Do you have a check valve? You wouldn't logically put it in the pump suction line. Then there's the issue of how fine is the mesh in the pre-filter, and does it have a large enough filter area to handle the flow with minimum pressure loss. The pre-filter's micron rating should not be any finer than the pump manufacturer's recommendation.... typically 100- or 40-microns.

Your wiring should be run independantly in a plastic sheath to protect it.

limige

good points, i wasn't thinking about the pump with the check ball. i haven't installed my check ball yet, i lacked the room and the fittings. i guess straight off the pump would be the next best place, you want to maintain pressure between the fuel pump and the regulator for less down time when you hit the key.

i quite sure the ball valve allows for full flow on the -10 line, i had the cavitation issues before i installed those. i installed those after my pump gave out last year. turned out it was about 6-7 yrs old (bought used) didn't save a dime cost me almost 100 to have it rebuilt.

i know you should run a radiused fitting but i can't remember if mine was or not.

a 90 degree elbow is virtually unavoidable in out cars is it not?
i'm using aeromotive filters designed to be used with the pump so thats not a problem.


now i'm wondering if i made a mistake putting the feed and return lines close together, i know they do in the can but thats completely different. i thought about trying to tack weld something over the ports. some kind of baffling, looking for thoughts and ideas.

i know the way i didn't isn't working, i need to change some things around i'm close but not quite there. i thought about a fuel cell but decided that wasn't going to work. better to buy a brand new tank to play with than go that route.

what about getting some of that foam that they put in fuel cells, i thought about packing the bottom of the tank with that leaving a cutout around the bulkheads. i guess you'd run into some issues with the sending unit..

limige

heres a pic of how mine was ran, the only thing i changed was adding the valves so far.

ulakovic22

Thought we were going to do a sticky for "Big Boy Fuel Systems" or a FAQ, but I didn't see one so I'm just going to past my setup I finished this weekend. The return line is going to be secured to exit right above the pumps so the fuel will help cool the pumps.