Heathen1

I just bought this Camaro less than a week ago and have been pretty happy with it. Today I just replaced the door handle retaining clip because it wouldn't open from the outside.

While I was at it I decided to disable the alarm system because it is more annoying than anything. I followed the steps from the 1997 Camaro manual to put car in program mode and switch alarm to mode 1, which would turn it off. Based off the manual, I switched ignition to run, switched it to off, removed radio fuse and switched ignition to ACC mode. I hit the unlock button until I heard 1 chime indicating mode 1. I put the fuse back in and tried turning car on, but it won't start.

I pulled key out, put it on and switched to run and left it for 10 minutes. Before I switched it to run, the alarm light would flash and there is absolutely no power when I switch to run. The radio, door locks and windows don't work.

I disconnected battery for 15 minutes, reconnected it, but car still won't start. When I put key in and switch to power the alarm light flashes and I hear clicking near the glovebox, but when it's switched to run, their seems to be absolutely no power.

This is pissing me off because I just bought this less than a week ago and I can't use it. What are some troubleshooting steps to get the car running ASAP? I'll eventually want to bypass VATS, but I just need the car running by the end of tonight or tomorrow morning.

Injuneer

Not familiar with the stock alarm, but is a little red LED flashing, or is the "SECURITY" light flashing when you try to start the car?

Heathen1

It's a little red light on the dashboard. I know it has something to do with vats because I've been driving it everyday without issues. The radio and all power was fine while I was working on door. When I put the key in now in the off position it gives me a door chime and I hear lots of clicking near glove box and red led light flashes excessively. With the key in any other position the car is unresponsive and has no power.

Injuneer

If there is a problem with VATS, the "SECURITY" light will either come on steady, or flash. The meaning of each is shown in your Owner's Manual. The factory service manual indicates the "Universal Theft Deterrent System" (RPO "UA6") operates separately from the PASS-Key II system.

The alarm system passes through the body control module (BCM). These are notorious for failing circuit board solder joints. When the alarm is tripped, the BCM disables the starter, the fuel system and the remote lift window release switch.

Looking at the factory manual, after you have followed the first 3 steps, and removed the "RADIO" fuse, a single chime indicates the system is in programming mode - exit lighting, delayed illumination, last door closed and lockout prevention can be customized.

The factory manual indicates that right after the fuse is removed, you want to hear 2 chimes, indicating you can program remote lock control verification, driver's door delay, arming verification, arming method, shock sensor enable/disable. You want to program the "Theft Deterrent Arming Method", and that's when you want to hear 1 chime, indicating "Alarm System Off".

Since this isn't really a "fuel & ignition" issue, more likely an issue with the alarm electronics, let's move this thread to "General 67-02 F-Body Tech". You'll get more "reads" there.

Heathen1

I disconnected the battery yesterday and I reconnected the battery today. When I put the key in it gave me the regular "door open" chime and all lights on the dash came on including odometer. Everything on the most part looked normal. The radio didn't work, but I could lower the power windows.

When I tried starting I could hear the starter clicking, but it wouldn't turn over and slowly all the lights on the dash starting going dim. I tried again, but it went dead just like what happened yesterday and I hear some electronic clicking under the glove box, which I assume is the VATS. I tested the battery with a volt meter and it looks good.

I just ordered a Newrockies Pro module to bypass the whole system, which a few mechanics I was talking to recommended. Hopefully this will come soon and fix this ridiculous problem. I have an important job interview tomorrow morning and am somewhat glad this happened yesterday, instead on the day of the interview. This way I have time to borrow someones car...

Injuneer

What is the voltage indicated on the dash gauge when you are trying to start it? Sounds like the starter just isn't getting enough voltage to put the gear into the flywheel teeth. Have you checked the cables and battery terminals for corrosion?

If it was VATS, the starter wouldn't click. The clicking at the end of the glove box toward the kick panel would probably be the theft deterrent relay. If that's clicking, the BCM has received the correct resistance from the key, and it telling the TDR that it's OK to crank the starter. The BCM also sends a signal to the PCM to authorize fuel, and that is the signal that the bypass module will supply.

GaryDoug

Do the headlights work? If not, check for weak battery or corroded cables.

Heathen1

My Camaro still won't start. Today, I opened the door and the alarm went off, I put the key in and alarm stopped; I switched the power on and all the dash lights came on as normal, including security light on dash. When I tried starting, no sound came on and the electric clicking sound started under the dash. Now all of the dash lights are gone except for "check engine", which is now dim. The voltage gauge shows that it's at 0.

I installed the Newrockies pro module as per instructions and connected battery and tried starting and still nothing. When I said the starter was clicking yesterday, I was wrong. It wasn't the starter, it's something in the steering column, but it no longer makes this sound. The rapid electric clicking sound continues under the glovebox, even when I pull the key out. I have to disconnect the battery to stop this annoying sound.

The battery is good and there is no corrosion.

This is becoming frustrating. I know nothing else to do besides paying $$$ for a dealer or mechanic to fix it.

shoebox

Sounds like you have either a bad battery, poor power or ground connections or maybe even a bad ignition switch.

Injuneer

Reading the procedure in the factory manual and comparing it to your description, it does not appear you disabled the alarm correctly.

There was nothing to indicate it was a problem with the PASS-Key 2 system.

Next check sounds like it should be the ignition switch. Read the first paragraph of this:

4th Gen F-body Ignition Switch Replacement

Heathen1

I finally was able to get my Camaro to run again! It's weird because yesterday I tested the battery and it was good, no bad connections or anything. After messing with it today, I decided to test the battery again and it was only getting 5 volts. I charged it for a while and tried starting, without the module connected to see if it was just the battery, but I continued to get the clicking sounds under glove box. I wired in the pro module and it started right up with the charged battery. No clicking sounds or anything.

I'm a little confused because I don't know why the battery drained so fast today when it was good yesterday. I decided to get new battery to be on the safe side and the car runs fine now with the module installed.

The funny thing is that the alarm keeps going off for any little reason unless the key is in the ignition, which was the main reason I tried programming in the first place. I thought that the module would stop that. I'm too scared to mess with it again, since everything was perfect before I tried programming it last time and I'm just happy to have my car running again. I'll just live with that annoying alarm now.

TrybalRage

There is a sensor inside the passenger side rear quarter panel, it can be accessed from inside the car by removing a panel. Mine started getting overly sensitive years ago and I ended up just unplugging it so I didn't have to deal with the alarm anymore. I don't know where any others might be.

Heathen1

Is that the shock sensor you are talking about? Sometimes the alarm will go off I if the gas door slams shut, so I have to close it softly. Most of the time when the alarm goes off it's because I open the door and unless I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the on position within 8 seconds it goes off. I read that I could disable the shock sensor in the trunk somewhere…

If I buy a key fob and use the fob to lock/unlock my camaro will this bypass the alarm on the system even though I installed that bypass module?

Ls1fan85

My 98 ls1 camaro won't even attempt to crank I just drove it yesterday and now ibteyed to start it and it does nothing has power all lights come on I even hear it priming at fuel pump but I turn key and nothing just head light going off when I turn the key is all when I was driving it it did have the security light on but I didn't think anything of it could the security system not let me crank the car up??? And if that's the issue how do I bypass it?

Injuneer

The purpose of the PASS-Key2 system ("SECURITY") is to prevent the car from starting unless the correct key/resistor is used to attempt to start it. Something as simple as dirty contacts on the resistor on the key can prevent the engine from starting.

Read Shoebox's guide to troubleshooting the system:

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech-PassKey/VATS