DirtyDaveW

I now have this sitting on my desk






PT76GTS w/Billet Wheel, 3.5" turbine exit.

I'll be taking out my current TC76 and installing this over the next week. I'll have to update my downpipe because my current DP is only 3". I *think* everything else will bolt up. Looking forward to test driving

ShownomercyZ28

I got one of them too! lol

DirtyDaveW

Cool! What is your setup? I've been running the TC76 since 2008 on my daily driver but a recent thread (VERY interesting) on turbine sizes made me realize I've been leaving some HP on the table. I'm also busy trying to decipher Dookies Speed Density thread. Sounds like a more resposive, if more troublesome to setup, solution.

RealQuick

Dave, why 3.5"?

DirtyDaveW

Hi Jon, I'd been reading/hearing that the 3" downpipes start being a hindrance after 600 rwhp. I have a 3.5" V-band and 3.5 to 3.0 reducer so I can still mate up from the Turbo to your downpipe. I ordered them last week. I'll weld it up. For the track, I plan to have a 3.5" dump pipe exiting past the passenger front tire.

merim123

it'll be interesting to see your results, you got the exact turbo they recommend in that thread. curious to hear how your transient response is with this one and how much more power it makes!

DirtyDaveW

I'll be sure to post it up.

Yeah, that thread was the first one that kind of made me even start to think about the turbine side. I'd never really analyzed the function of *that* side of the turbo. But after reading that, I got out and looked at the turbine in my car. Knowing that on a N/A setup, we're always trying to get all that exhaust out in the most efficient manner. Typically 3.0" is the best cost/benefit, right? Then you think about how much MORE air is being pushed into/expelled out of the turbo motor than the N/A counterpart, yet it's having to squeeze/squirt all that exhaust past that small housing and the exhaust wheel inside? It's no wonder, as the original poster(INTIMID8?), that some cars run great till about 5K(when most serious boost starts really coming on), then nose over as the backpressure(the volume of exhaust between the engine and the turbo) becomes so excessive that the turbo can't keep up.

After I'd read all those posts and replies, I couldn't resist getting the 7675/PT76GTS. If this doesn't have a huge effect, I'll probably opt for twins(PT 6076E) next Spring/Summer.

Here's the spec's on the twins...http://www.precisionturbo.net/turboc...ger---6076E/64

RealQuick

Mr. Moneybags!

DirtyDaveW

Hahaha.. not so much. I figure I can sell the 76's to offset some of the cost of the new twins.

Right now, I'm trying to figure out everyones favorite. The intermittent miss.
It has to be an injector or a wire. If it were spark, but getting fuel, when spark reappeared, you'd expect it to backfire but it doesn't. The Rightside(passenger) goes lean at 453 on the NB02 sensor and you can tell by the ensuing vibration, it's running on 7 cylinders. Then, just as suddenly, it's on all 8 again. I've tried wiggling the injector wires but I can't seem to induce the miss that way. Hoping to trouble shoot some more tomorrow. I think I'll see if I can get it into the 'running on seven' scenario, then start unclicking the harness on each of the LS1 coils, one by one, to see if it runs the same or slower. If it's slower then that's not the guilty cylinder. If it stays the same, then I've found the guilty one. Wish me luck.

Chainsaw_Camaro

Hey I've got a few of those! can't wait to see your results.

DirtyDaveW

a few of those? Do you mean the turbos or the intermittent misses?

I changed plugs to brand new ones. Miss is still there. Put each old plug that I'd just pulled out (and cylinder # 6 looked wetter than the rest) and put them in there respective coils/plug wires and cranked it with a remote starter to see if they sparked. Drat.. they did.
Then took out my noid light I'd bought from NAPA and tried to check the first 3 injectors but the damned thing wouldn't light on any of them. ??! I wonder if it's because the 'noid light is designed to test stock(and thereby high impendance) injectors while I have the low impedance box/injectors?

I then went into the house and looked up 'testing fuel injectors/connectors' and found two things. One is a cool tool that tells you if any injector is working, simply by touching the pointed probe on each injector. If it's firing, then the tool both lights and tones each time the given injector fires. Problem is the tool is about $100 so that's gonna be a last resort tool there.
Next was a Mustang site that said a simple test for connectors/wiring was to get out the old multimeter, take off the harness plug at the PCM (the 'Red' connector for my generation LT1), then take off each injectors connector. Measure the ohms resistance between the pin of the PCM connector and the proper wire at the injector connector. The ground wire should have infinite resistance unless it's shorted. I'll do that next weekend. Gotta head back to the work site (I'm a contractor) here in a bit. Stay tuned.

97WS6SCharged

I don't know how old your injectors are but you may want to consider having them tested and cleaned.

Also, how did you wire in the impedence box?

DirtyDaveW

Injectors and box were purchased as a kit from Acceleronics a year ago. I used the instructions to wire it based on Acceleronics provided instructions.
Because of the nature of the intermitent nature of the problem I'm sure it's wiring. I've shook the wiring harness while it was running but couldn't induce the miss. I'm going to pull the PCM connector(Red) and check all the wires for the injectors.

I've checked all the spark with a timing light.
I'd love to get the EFI injector tester. It would only take a moment to check all eight but the tool is relatively expensive for such limited use.
Waekon Industries Probe Efi Electronic Fuel Tester | Wayfair

DirtyDaveW

Well, being impulsive, I went ahead and ordered that EFI injector tester. It'll be here on Friday. Something I forgot to mention, I also purchased a IFR pyrometer and used it. My current hotside is quite viewable from the passenger side, which is the side I think is afflicted, based on the Datamaster logs, so I pointed the IFR tool at the primaries...
Cyl 2: 5xx degrees
Cyl 4: 3xx degrees
Cyl 6: 3xx degrees
Cyl 8: 5xx degrees.

When I pulled the plugs, cylinder 6's plug had a noticably dirtier appearance. Hope to figure this out.

DirtyDaveW

Hey Chris, I looked at their site and once I saw the two diagrams, I recognized which one I'd used...