dookie454

Has anybody seen a simple electric 12v waste gate or even BOV? I have a procharger D1SC setup and it uses vacuum and recently installed a Megasquirt MS3 ECU and Water/Meth injection so I'm upping boost and timing since now I have better control all sorts of failsafe engine/boost/injection events. I want to be able to dump boost incase something goes wrong with the water/meth system, fuel pressure, or AFR which is simple to do with the Megasquirt outputs, but would need an electric dump valve similar to the procharger ~1" bypass valve.

I could also use this to dump boost in 1st gear only... help save my stock 10 bolt!

Any ideas?

97WS6SCharged

I think a solenoid valve would be your best bet if you were going to attempt something like this but I don't think it would be useful for controlling boost in any gears, just as a fail safe. Have you considered ignition retard by gear?

Kevin Blown 95 TA

I'm working on this too, but it's on hold till next spring. I have a 12V solenoid valve and am going to try to see if it will work with the bypass valve in some way - I am not sure if it will behave the way I think it will with all the forces on the diaphragm.

dookie454

I agree priority #1 is fail safe.. something to open instantly and as we know using vacuum on a boost car the only way to do that is with throttle closed.. that leaves a 12v solenoid..

Ignition control is easy on the MS3 if you have it controlling it since it has multiple fuel/spark tables.. BUT the MS3 doesnt work well with the OEM knock circuit.. or I should say the stock PCM doesnt output a good signal.. so that's the ONLY reason i'm holding on to the stock PCM.

The bypass valve doesn't need to control boost.. just be either fully open or fully closed.. so first gear/fail safe can be fully open/bypassed. In Tunerstudio software one can choose mph/rpm combo's that can calculate gear based on RPM and speed.

I hear a simple 1" irrigation valve from Home Depot works.. but there has to be something else.

I will post anything I find on this thread.

97WS6SCharged

If the MS3 is controlling the timing/fuel curves how would retaining the stock PCM for the knock sensor be useful? Are you just using it as a warning or a log?

I can see how simply dumping boost in first would be a simpler option than ignition retard though it seems like it defeats the purpose of FI. Are you running a stick or an auto?

No comment on the irrigation valve since I don't know the specs. Seems like something built for an air system would be the better choice though.