blue

Is there a keyed hub that will fit in the stock timing cover? I'll take the cover off and get it machined if I have to, but I'm very, very tired of working on this car and spending money on it, so I'm looking for cheap and I'll take my chances of it slipping or having to do it again.
I'm spinning a Vortech S-Trim (although with an undersized pulley), so I think one key will do it. It's a Callies crank and I have a stock damper. I've looked through the old posts but nothing really answers the question.
Thanks for any help. This site has saved me a lot of times over a lot of years.

Injuneer

The stock hub can have a keyway cut into it. I did it 16 years ago. You could also get a damper like the ATI SuperDamper. Comes with a keyway, fits in the stock timing cover, has a spacer so it can be used with or without a CKP reluctor. Been running that for 14 years. I do know of two cases where people running over 20# of boost had the ATI hub crack with only a single key. They replaced them with one with two keys, reinforced the outside diameter and solved the problem. Still fit in the stock cover.

blue

Thanks. I'm glad to know that getting the stock hub cut is an option. A few hours ago I was ready to get the torch out like a maniac and weld the hub to the crank. The fun went out of fixing all the things that break on this car a long time ago.

I looked all through Summit, Jegs, and CNC, and the only hubs that will fit are ATI's for $150 or so. There's a Pioneer hub that will fit, but it seems that the stock damper won't fit IT! https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/lt1...-issue-821680/
So, you have to either buy a very pricey hub, or buy a hub/balancer together. To put some more information in here for anyone looking, CNC has the best prices on all of it. They have a cheap Powerforce damper with keyed hub for $90 80030 Professional Product Powerforce Harmonic Damper | CNC Motorsports | Car Parts | Truck Parts | Competition Engines and a cheap SFI approved Powerforce with keyed hub for $190.

97WS6SCharged

You shouldn't need to machine the timing cover for any keyed hub unless you're using a big block chevy hub. You could have the stock hub machined for a woodruff key instead of buying a new one. Shouldn't cost more than $40-50 at a local machine shop.

Fred, do you know if those cars you mentioned were using the aluminum hub or the steel version?

Injuneer

That, unfortunately is ancient history. The ATI for the LT1 was fairly new back then, and I don't know if they were even offering alternate hub materials. In fact, I have the same damper from the same time period, and don't know what the hub material is.

George Baxter (97 30th SS 'vert, Vortech S/C) was the first to crack the ATI hub back in maybe 2000. It cracked, he got a new one, reinforced the outside diameter of the hub with a band of steel, and Second Street actually managed to add a second keyway to the crank, WITHOUT pulling the crank.

The second one I also actually saw was 2001. We put together a "fastest F-Body" event at Englishtown, and managed to get the two of the three fastest known LT1's at the time - George and Brian "Madman" Jeffries - running side by side. Interesting, but neither of them won event. But after all the eliminations, Madman decided to make a solo pass to see if he could top George's 9.05 @ 156MPH record. 1/2-way down the track, the pass went flat, and when they got the car back in the pits the damper was flopping. Madman thought he had snapped the snout off the crank, but it turned out it was just the broken hub. I don't know how he fixed the problem.

Somehow.... those were the "good ol' days".

blue

The machine shop said I'd be in for a five day wait or so for them to cut the hub, and I was not impressed with the job they did on my brother's block several years ago, so I just ordered the Professional damper that comes with a hub.

mzgp5x

97ss... I used a Pioneer brand. I think you can order from Jegs, maybe Summit. I've been using for 5 years on a F1A Procharger. &.6 to 3.4 pulley ratio. They are easy to align due to key engagement undercut. A very nice machined piece. B.

siguy

i use JEGS Performance Products 51607 LT1 Balancer Hub with no problems

87Aerocoupe

I'm building a new all forged LT1 and adding a D1SC I have a fluidampr and I was wondering when you guys do 2 keyways how are they aligned 90* or 180* apart?
Also would this be enough to run 15# of boost?

streetbad

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