I would rather put any damping material directly on the metal, so it is adhesive bonded and can add mechanical damping to the noise source. I suspect the results would be much better this way, but I have no data or references to back that up. Dynamat is great, but expensive.
If cost is a concern: I used a roll of premium Ice Guard roofing material in my Saab and had great results on horizontal surfaces, pretty good results on vertical. I just had a door skin off, and a little bit of the vertical had pulled away, so I can't recommend it for vertical surfaces. In the tire well, mostly horizontal, it's holding up perfectly after a couple of years. Almost $100 for a roll, REALLY sticky adhesive, and more than enough for a car even with multiple layers in some areas. I don't remember the brand, but it doesn't have much smell if any. Came from Lowes or HD.
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95 Z28 M6, 417RWHP on Mustang, LE2/LE3, VRE Compstar/Mahle 383 shortblock, Pacesetter LTs, 58mm TB, Promag 1.6, LT4 ED timing set, 37# inj., TRE 255 lph pump, Street Twin. Home intake porting, Vector Motorsports tune. Best 12.006 @ 117 on F1 GS/D3s.
(Also Z71 Tahoe, Saab 9-2X Aero, XCSP 600, KTM 300EXC, Street-legal R1 go kart )
What do you want to do? Do you want to control vibration or block noise? Dynamat is to control vibration which can create noise. If you want to block it you want to use Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV).
Well, all I know is that with the current stock setup, it gets really hot around the transmission. Vibrations don't really bother me, but I'd like a quiet comfortable ride if the windows are up.
Is it worth the money to go these routes, or just a waste of time?
Everyone I've read about that has done this has enjoyed the end result. I plan on wrapping the inside of my firebird in sound deadening material (foil lined) once it's no longer my DD.
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Just your basic bolt-ons, and a loudmouth...exhaust
I do most of my cars with QuietRIDE. It's a really well-designed kit that's made specifically for your car. They send you a kit that has a thick padding that goes over a layer of Dynamat. The padding's all cut to fit the car perfectly (in most cases) and I can honestly say it makes a huge difference. They usually include a headliner kit too that helps a lot. The roof of my Mustang was super tinny when you tapped on it, but now it sounds like it's made of thick plastic...if that makes any sense. It's good stuff though.
What do you want to do? Do you want to control vibration or block noise? Dynamat is to control vibration which can create noise. If you want to block it you want to use Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV).
If you really want to make the car sound proof you put dynamat (or similar) on each panel, a layer of foam, then the MLV.
That is kind of a misstatement of the issue. Noise is vibration, and when the noise is transmitted through a panel, reducing panel vibration reduces the noise accordingly. Believe me, adding the heavy damping material to metal panels kills noise quite well!
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95 Z28 M6, 417RWHP on Mustang, LE2/LE3, VRE Compstar/Mahle 383 shortblock, Pacesetter LTs, 58mm TB, Promag 1.6, LT4 ED timing set, 37# inj., TRE 255 lph pump, Street Twin. Home intake porting, Vector Motorsports tune. Best 12.006 @ 117 on F1 GS/D3s.
(Also Z71 Tahoe, Saab 9-2X Aero, XCSP 600, KTM 300EXC, Street-legal R1 go kart )