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Need some help with my lawnmower. After starting, the lawnmower runs pretty lame with a very low idle. If I run over some tall grass or push too fast, it will stall out. The lawnmower runs fair when you first start it, but once it warms up it will go down to the low idle. When restarting it (after stall), it will go down to low idle in about 5 seconds. The lawnmower runs GREAT when it is just about to run out of fuel.
I figure this is related to the air/fuel mixture? I poked around and I don't see the adjustment screw. I did see an idle adjustment screw but it is well tucked inside the mower. I cannot adjust it while the mower is assembled, as the top piece of metal with the crank starter (don't know what its called) is in the way as well as the engine-on cable. To adjust this, I would have to do it blindly with the mower disassembled.
Overall, when I remove the air filter (it looks fairly dirty), the mower runs somewhat better. It does smell like it is running rich to me, as well as the symptoms indicate.
Picture (if necessary) is included in the link below.
Have you done a tune-up on it yet? Home depot, Lowe's, and other lawn & garden stores often have tune-up kits with some replacement parts in it like a new air filter & spark plug. If it runs better with the filter off then I'd at least start by really cleaning it or replacing it. Change the oil while you are at it.
I'd take a look at the float assembly. Ensure that it and the rest are clean. Grab a can of carb cleaner and thoroughly spray it out. Make sure it does not have a hole in it which will allow gas to fill the float, causing the fuel level inside the bowl to be too high. You made need to adjust the float as well.
Make sure the plug is clean of course. Keep the air filter clean. A dirty filter or poor airflow leading to the intake can cause a rich condition.
If there is a choke, make sure it is not stuck in a semi closed position.
Is spark up to par? I've had flywheels lose magnetivity causing a weak spark, and in turn causing a poorly running engine.
Just some things to try.
__________________ 1991 RS Procharged LT1/T56+bolt-ons=456hp/442tq
13.02@112 Bolt-ons and before boost. 2000 BMW 540i. v8/6-speed 2007 Custom Chopper. HD evo, Ultima 6 spd, etc.
Projects: '88 Supra, '88 Porsche 924S, 86 zx1000
I had a problem similar to that on a Briggs engine. Here's how it was cured. Remove the carb very carefully, so as not the tear the gasket. Take a can of carb cleaner and spray the hell out of it. Also spray the fuel hose(s) that run to it.
Briggs has troubleshooting tips on their site.
Artificial intelligence is no match for natural born stupidity.
It's probably not the flywheel if its starting OK, but it could easily be the carbueretor as the others have mentioned. If not carburation trouble, then make sure the governor is working - if you have an air vane governor, make sure it isn't broken and can pivot and work the carb. If it's a mechanical governor, check the springs and linkage. There's an outside chance the governor weights broke off inside the crankcase, but hopefully not. It's the governor which keeps the rpms up when the engine is under load.
Mine used to do that when I would mow a really dusty field and the air cleaner would clog up. It would start running slower and smoke black because it didn't get enough air. Put a new air filter on it or clean the one that's there.
Now driving 2012 Mustang V6 Premium, Black/Black.
[SOLD 4/2/12]1997 Z28, sliver. Custom black leather interior.
I had a 6 HP B&S on a 13 y/o craftsman doing the same thing. I just used the S.E. Texas Curbside Recycling Program (put it to the curb, someone picked it up before dark). Bought a Husqvarna 8.75 Lb/Ft. rear drive mower. Problem solved.