16Sammy61

Im about 99% done getting this transmission out.(4l60E btw) Ive got everything unhooked and unplugged. Right now its only being help in by one bolt(NO its not sitting there with 1 bolt keeping it in mid-air, its supported by a transmission jack on the transmission pan and a regular jack on the oil pan). I tried getting that 1 bolt out for at least 2 hours, and have not yet found a way to get it, from the top or bottom. Ive tried everything, from a simple wrench to having about a foot of extensions and p a universal to try and get it. Anyone have any suggestions to get this out, it's all i had left and i had to stop today knowing i have only 1 bolt left.

Injuneer

Did you try gently lowering the back of the trans, to tilt it down and make more room? It is possible to push up gently on the damper to get a bit more tilt. Just be careful that the oil pressure sensor on the top/back of the block does not contact the firewall (early 94's may have the sensor near the oil filter).

Doing an M6, I've used as much as 3-ft of extension, with someone up front trying to hold the socket on the bolt. Although the M6 is easier, since you can operate the ratchet through the floor opening for the shifter.

16Sammy61

I have lowered the trans quite a bit, just am a little weary of lowering too much as not to cause too much stress on the bolt. I can feel it through the top behind the valve covers, as i can stick my hand far enough in there. Just cant get a wrench/socket in there because theres not enough room. If i were to lower it enough, could i use enough extensions to reach it from the bottom? I figure i might could if i got enough to reach over the top of the trans

rngilliland

I used a few long extensions and a universal joint socket. Put a couple of the easy to get to bolts back in first. I assume you are talking about the top driver side bolt. If the universal joint is loose, wrap some tape around it. It will make it easier to get it on the bolt.

Injuneer

Pushing up on the damper takes the load off the engine/tranny interface. Keep the tailshaft supported.

16Sammy61

Well as of now, i wont be able to put any of these suggestions to use, it has rained heavily here and is soaking outside. I'll check back and let know what happens when i get home today,. I'll get under there and have a look to see if i can reach it after i lower the trans.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

Basically what he ^ said, but you can get a really long 1/2" extension pretty cheap and a good quality 9/16 swivel socket to do the job. You reach over the tranny to get these bolts out. It isn't that bad with the right tools. Without them, it is quite difficult.

16Sammy61

I now can get it out, and i got a guy that will give me a 4l60(no e). If its not electronic, can it be fitted to work..?

Edit: im confused, i'll post a picture of one side(if i can figure out how) that makes me think this is a 4l60e not the 4l60. It has the plug for a 4l60e, but the tailshaft has no holes. My tailshaft has 3(i think) bolt holes for which the torque arm is attached. This transmission has none. Pictures are in my garage, i didnt know how to post them directly on this thread

shoebox

The only direct swap trans is from another 94 f-body. Others can work, but modifications will be needed.

16Sammy61

The only difference is the tailshaft housing. The one i recieved was bare, mine has holes. I took the tailshaft off,mshouldn't the other just bolt right on? They are both the same size(right around the 7 1/2 " area) and they bolt the same way.... The trans is obviously eletric, and not a 700r4 because of the side plug.. Also the driveshaft fits it perfectly. He said its from a 94 suburban, sooo? Its the same, just a different vehicle so it had a different way to bolt it up. I think it is interchangeable.

4th Gen 4 Life

I recently just had to purchase a 4l60e for my 94 z. I had to drive over 100 miles away to get it. But the correct trans is well worth it. I know other trans can cause problems due to pcm not being comparable. These are some common things that are different. Tail shaft length and housing. Dust cover mounting holes. Different pins in plug. Also if you have the correct core you are taking out of your car it would be wise to hang on to it if you plan on keeping the car. Yes tail shaft housing should unbolt.

94 Z28 LT1 4L60E- Mostly Stock 3" Cat back Blowmasters. Chrome rims +5 HP

16Sammy61

Yes i unbolted it, and my original one is also held on by 4 bolts. They are the exact same thing, so would it not work to swap them and replace the bushing and seal. I found a picture that has 3 different tail shaft housings for this type of transmission so i assume it was different for every vehicle, but they are interchangeable. Im sure this is a 4l60e because there is no TV cable..

4th Gen 4 Life

The three holes in the tail shaft is for your torsion arm mounts. Did your car not have this on it?

94 Z28 LT1 4L60E- Mostly Stock 3" Cat back Blowmasters. Chrome rims +5 HP

rngilliland

A 94 4l60e from a Suburban should work after you swap the tail housing. Post #4 in this thread has the info on which 4l60e transmissions interchange. https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/dri...bility-875465/

16Sammy61

Alright well ive already swapped the tailshaft housings, and changed the seals. Now can anyone tell me the torque of the flywheel bolts( i feel like its 89 ft lbs) and if the 6 bellhousing to engine bolts have a certain(or recommended) torque.