rear end swap 96 into 98
#1
rear end swap 96 into 98
SO my 98 Camaro started making howling noises when I let off the gas in gear. Then it started howling in and out of gear.
I jacked it up and seen that the trans mount was toast. The middle of the two piece drive shaft was spinning oil out of the center and the part the drivshaft bolts up to on the rear wiggles alot. Also when I spin the drive shaft mount it apears out of balance.
Yeah it's not a Z28 but the rear end available is from a z28.
It's from a 96 Camaro and is 3.42 posi with t/c.
I notice the brakes on on 96 are at the back and mine are at the front and the parking brake setup is different.
There is nothing else available right now in my city so I would like to make this work. I want the posi, I think it will help driving in the snow.
On mine there are 4 nuts and bolts that hold the brake assembly on and the 96 has studs.
has any one done this before sucessfully and know I can use my brake setup on the 96 rear?
Or is easier to pull the axles and gears out and transfer it over? I've never done that before but I have alot of experiance working on other stuff.
Also how can I tell my car has traction control?. I've only had the car for a few months but I notice it seems to straighten itself out alot compared my old 85 trans am.
thanks
I jacked it up and seen that the trans mount was toast. The middle of the two piece drive shaft was spinning oil out of the center and the part the drivshaft bolts up to on the rear wiggles alot. Also when I spin the drive shaft mount it apears out of balance.
Yeah it's not a Z28 but the rear end available is from a z28.
It's from a 96 Camaro and is 3.42 posi with t/c.
I notice the brakes on on 96 are at the back and mine are at the front and the parking brake setup is different.
There is nothing else available right now in my city so I would like to make this work. I want the posi, I think it will help driving in the snow.
On mine there are 4 nuts and bolts that hold the brake assembly on and the 96 has studs.
has any one done this before sucessfully and know I can use my brake setup on the 96 rear?
Or is easier to pull the axles and gears out and transfer it over? I've never done that before but I have alot of experiance working on other stuff.
Also how can I tell my car has traction control?. I've only had the car for a few months but I notice it seems to straighten itself out alot compared my old 85 trans am.
thanks
#2
First off look in the center area of the dash near the radio to see if you have a switch labeled ASR. If yes then you have traction control. If not then you don't.
TCS/ASR rears use sensors at each wheel with reluctors on the axles. NON-TCS/ASR rears have one sensor in the top of the pig/center chunk with the reluctor wheel inside.
If you don't have ASR then installing the ''new'' rear will cause your ABS to quit. If this isn't a problem then continue. If you need ABS then find another rear.
You'll need to remove the diff. cover and fluid from each rear.
Then pull the paddle retaining bolt and paddle.
Next push the axles into the rear and remove the C-clips to realease the axles.
Pull the axles.
Now you can pull the backing plates/caliper mounts and swap them from one rear to the other.
Put it all back together and fill with 80-90 gear oil and a bottle of friction modifier.
Put the new rear in the car, fix the carrier bearing, and the trans mount now you should be good to go.
TCS/ASR rears use sensors at each wheel with reluctors on the axles. NON-TCS/ASR rears have one sensor in the top of the pig/center chunk with the reluctor wheel inside.
If you don't have ASR then installing the ''new'' rear will cause your ABS to quit. If this isn't a problem then continue. If you need ABS then find another rear.
You'll need to remove the diff. cover and fluid from each rear.
Then pull the paddle retaining bolt and paddle.
Next push the axles into the rear and remove the C-clips to realease the axles.
Pull the axles.
Now you can pull the backing plates/caliper mounts and swap them from one rear to the other.
Put it all back together and fill with 80-90 gear oil and a bottle of friction modifier.
Put the new rear in the car, fix the carrier bearing, and the trans mount now you should be good to go.
#3
Both cars have "brakes" on all 4 wheels. Most likely, your V6 has drum type brakes in the back, while the V8 rear axle assembly will have disc brakes in the back. If you do what AL indicates by swapping the backing plates, and using your V6 drum style brakes in the back, it will simplify things quite a bit. However, you will have lost out on gaining the better overall braking provided by the rear disc brakes.
#4
Ok I don't have traction control then. By the brakes being in the front I meant the caliper is mounted on the towards the front of the car in my 98 and towards the rear in 96. Yeah my car has disc brakes.
So it looks like this will work out for now until I find one without out traction control so the abs works. Do all posi for fourth gen have traction control?
I'll have to take the driveshaft to a shop because I think it may be part of the problem that wrecked the pinion yoke. The car had less than 100k miles so it seems odd this happened.
So it looks like this will work out for now until I find one without out traction control so the abs works. Do all posi for fourth gen have traction control?
I'll have to take the driveshaft to a shop because I think it may be part of the problem that wrecked the pinion yoke. The car had less than 100k miles so it seems odd this happened.
#5
The posi rear was standard on the V8 4th Gens, optional on the V6's. Traction control was a totally separate option. Not all posi cars have traction control. TCS/ASR was not available until 1995.
#6
Job completed. But the lug nut studs are shorter becaise my rotors are thicker I think. The only modification I had to make was pounding out a tab on the brake braket that goes around the trailing arm mount. Lucky for me whoever sold it to who I bought it from was mistaken about it having traction control so I still have ABS.
I might have to install my old axels if thats possible. When I tightened the lugs there was still two or three threads showing and I managed to strip one.
Nice improvement when floored. My old one had 3.08.
thanks for the help
I might have to install my old axels if thats possible. When I tightened the lugs there was still two or three threads showing and I managed to strip one.
Nice improvement when floored. My old one had 3.08.
thanks for the help
#7
You can hammer out the wheel studs, and replace them. You don't need to change axles for stripped threads.
Unless you reprogrammed the PCM, your speedo is now reading 11% faster than actual speed, and your odometer is racking up 11% more miles than you have actually driven.
Unless you reprogrammed the PCM, your speedo is now reading 11% faster than actual speed, and your odometer is racking up 11% more miles than you have actually driven.
#8
Job completed. But the lug nut studs are shorter becaise my rotors are thicker I think. The only modification I had to make was pounding out a tab on the brake braket that goes around the trailing arm mount. Lucky for me whoever sold it to who I bought it from was mistaken about it having traction control so I still have ABS.
I might have to install my old axels if thats possible. When I tightened the lugs there was still two or three threads showing and I managed to strip one.
Nice improvement when floored. My old one had 3.08.
thanks for the help
I might have to install my old axels if thats possible. When I tightened the lugs there was still two or three threads showing and I managed to strip one.
Nice improvement when floored. My old one had 3.08.
thanks for the help
On pre 98 axles the hub that the wheels center in are slightly larger in diameter and to put stock 98 wheels on a earlier axle you need to grind the center of the wheels out. That's probably why you stripped a stud. The wheels aren't even on the car.
#9
Got her fixed properly by using my old axles. The centre hub was slighly larger and the wheel studs where around 3/8" shorter. The rims where on there good as I managed to force them most of the way onto the hub
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