Rear End FAQ
08-26-2006, 09:50 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 106
Rear End FAQ
1. I have a leak, where is it coming from?
The two most common places for a rear end to leak are the pinion seal (the front of the housing) and the rear end cover. Pinion seal seepage is very normal for an f-body, as long as you check your fluid and it doesn’t leave drips on the ground, it is usually okay. Many times people take their cars to be fixed at the dealership only to have it leak again. The rear cover will leak because of a bad gasket/poor use of RTV sealant. You will notice a few drips hanging from the very bottom of the housing, and the area around it may be damp as well. Fixing a rear cover leak is very simple – remove the cover, scrape the old gasket/RTV off of the cover & the housing, lay down fresh RTV sealant on the cover, bolt it back on and add the appropriate fluid (75w90 & GM rear end additive). The rear end is full when fluid begins to spill out of the drain plug on side of the housing.
One should not attempt to fix a pinion seal leak unless they are familiar with the way a rear end goes together, because pinion depth & crush sleeves are vital to correct setup. Fixing a pinion seal includes removing the driveshaft, pinion nut, washer, yoke, and old seal. The housing should be clean from nicks, and the yoke should be cleaned with a scotchbrite pad to get rid of any unsmooth areas before the new seal is installed. When retightening the pinion nut, it is important not to overcrush the crush sleeve.
2. What gears are best for my car?
To find what gears are best for you, it would be wise to use the search function of this website to look at cars that are similar to yours in modification. In general, most people with 6 speed cars choose 4.10s, and most people with automatic cars choose 3.73s. However once you start adding modifications like a new camshaft or a forced induction system, you should spend time researching before you decide. Automatic LS1 cars come with 3.23s or 2.73s from the factory, and six speed LS1 cars have 3.42 gears.
3. What is a gear ratio, and how do I know what I have?
If your car's rear end is untouched, you can go by the RPO codes to find out what it came with. RPO codes are three digits, and are listed either in the door jamb or in the glove box.
GU2 = 2.73
GU5 = 3.23
GU6 = 3.42
A gear ratio is the number of teeth on one gear compared to another. To find the ratio, you divide the number of teeth on the driven gear by the number of teeth on the driving gear. For instance, the number of teeth on a ring (driven) gear is 41. The number of teeth on a pinion (driving) gear is 10. 41 divided by 10 = 4.10.
4. What can I expect to pay for a gear upgrade?
A set of gears themselves will cost $150-$250 depending on what brand you purchase. Most shops will charge $250-$400 in labor, and may add more for supplies. Overall, you will spend $400-$700 on a gear change depending on your location. Don’t skip out and go with the cheapest one – be certain that a trained professional is handling your installation!
5. Can I set up my own rear end?
You may or may not be able to, depending on your level experience. If you perform all of your own installations and are patient, it is possible to perform it yourself, but it would really help to have someone who has done it before to help you through your first time. Setting up pinion depth & backlash are vital to a well-working rear end. Gears that are not set up correctly will whine or howl, and fail prematurely.
If you want to read more about installing gears, visit the site below for a complete how-to.
www.keliente.com/gears.htm
6. Is a 10 bolt even worth putting money into?
Theoretically, a 10 bolt is going to be weaker than a 12 bolt, or Ford 9 inch rear end due to the size, but that doesn’t make it useless. Some people have more luck with 10 bolts than others, obviously. The life of your rear end will depend on how you drive and maintain your car. If you are running slicks at the drag strip and launching from 6,000 rpms, something is bound to break eventually. If you don’t keep up on fluid and let it run low, the bearings will fail prematurely. If your gears are not set up correctly, it’s more bad news. However there ARE people out there who have ridden their 10 bolt right into 10 second passes in the quarter mile.
Whether you will need a ‘better’ rear end is up to you. If you are replacing parts of your 10 bolt every other week, yes, it’s time for an upgrade. Don't be "that guy" who can't afford a 12 bolt, yet is installing a new gear set in the 10 bolt every week!!
7. Are some gears noisier than others?
Yes, some gears (such as Richmond) will be noisier than others. However, the noise should not be overpowering. If it is unbearable, the gears may have been set up incorrectly.
8. What is backlash?
Backlash is the play between the ring and the pinion, i.e., how much space there is exactly before the pinion actually contacts the ring. It is measured with a dial indicator gauge (either magnetic or clip on). Too little backlash will make for a bad whine, and too much makes for a sloppy setup. In general, different manufacturers call for .006” - .010” backlash (some may even allow for more).
9. What is a ‘paddle’, and a paddle kit for that matter?
A paddle takes the place of an axle pin in a Torsen differential car. Instead of a thin cylinder, it is shaped like a block and is held in with an 8mm bolt. The purpose of a paddle or axle pin is keep the axles pushed outward, and thus retained with the c-clips. Sometimes when installing different gears, a paddle kit may be needed for re-installation. SLP’s paddle kit is a two piece paddle that allows it to fit. To decide if you will need one or not, be sure to contact the sponsor from whom you are purchasing the gears.
10. Besides gears, what do I need for an install?
It is good practice to replace all of the bearings when installing new gears…if you have the rear apart anyway; it only takes extra minutes to replace the bearings. A good master installation kit will include everything you need, but specifically if you choose to replace everything you will need: carrier bearings (2), front pinion bearing, rear pinion bearing, crush sleeve, pinion nut, axle bearings (2), axle seals (2), pinion seal, a set of shims, gear paint, loctite, RTV gasket maker, 75w90 (2), GM rear end additive (for LSDs). It is also a good idea to replace the ring gear bolts, which may stretch over time. They are left hand thread, fyi.
11. I can’t get my axles out, they won’t slide in far enough to remove the c-clips!
Got a car with traction control? The sensor is prohibiting the axle to move in far enough. Remove the sensor from the backing plate and it will allow you more room to slide it inward to drop the c-clips.
12. What is a series 2 or series 3 carrier, and what do I have?
A 2 series carrier is a car that came with 3.08s or lower from the factory (i.e. all of your 2.73 cars). A 3 series carrier is a car that came with 3.23s or higher. This is very important when you order new gears, as they will differ from 2 to 3 series carrier!
13. What gear oil should I use?
You can find this in the owner's manual. Otherwise, 75w90 or 80w90 will work fine. It is not necessary to use synthetic oil. Also if you have an auburn carrier you will need the limited slip additive.
14. How much gas mileage will I lose going up in ratio?
This question is going to depend on different things...such as whether your car is a manual or automatic, how big of a jump you made in gear ratio, and how much city and highway driving you do. However, it is pretty safe to say that the performance and fun-factor gains are going to be worth whatever miniscule gas mileage you may lose.
15. What's the difference between a 3 channel and 4 channel rear?
A three channel rear end has ABS. A 4 channel rear end has ABS and traction control. A 'channel' is just a way of describing the means for a speed sensor to gauge the wheel speed. On a 3 channel rear end, the two front wheels have sensors, and there is one sensor on top of the rear end housing that reads for the whole rear. On a 4 channel rear end, there is a speed sensor at every wheel. 4 channel rear ends have reluctor wheels on each axle, 3 channel rears have one big reluctor ring on the differential. Because a 4 channel has a sensor at each rear wheel it can see the difference in speed between one wheel and the other, and ta-da, you have traction control.
16. Will a 3 channel rear end work in my 4 channel car?
Yes, you can make it work, if you put the axles from your four channel car into the 3 channel rear end and install the sensors into the backing plate. To put a 4 series into a 3 series would be more difficult, because it would require you to drill in the top of the rear housing for the sensor, and add a reluctor ring to the carrier as well.
17. Can't I just edit ASR/ABS out of the PCM with tuning software?
The answer is no, because the PCM does not control these functions. They are regulated by the EBCM (electronic brake control module) which is attached to the ABS pump. So if you attempt to swap the wrong rear into your car and don't hook it up right, the dash lights will illuminate...unless you pull the bulbs, or put electrical tape over the lights. The EBCM will kill the dash lights when everything passes its own self-test.
The two most common places for a rear end to leak are the pinion seal (the front of the housing) and the rear end cover. Pinion seal seepage is very normal for an f-body, as long as you check your fluid and it doesn’t leave drips on the ground, it is usually okay. Many times people take their cars to be fixed at the dealership only to have it leak again. The rear cover will leak because of a bad gasket/poor use of RTV sealant. You will notice a few drips hanging from the very bottom of the housing, and the area around it may be damp as well. Fixing a rear cover leak is very simple – remove the cover, scrape the old gasket/RTV off of the cover & the housing, lay down fresh RTV sealant on the cover, bolt it back on and add the appropriate fluid (75w90 & GM rear end additive). The rear end is full when fluid begins to spill out of the drain plug on side of the housing.
One should not attempt to fix a pinion seal leak unless they are familiar with the way a rear end goes together, because pinion depth & crush sleeves are vital to correct setup. Fixing a pinion seal includes removing the driveshaft, pinion nut, washer, yoke, and old seal. The housing should be clean from nicks, and the yoke should be cleaned with a scotchbrite pad to get rid of any unsmooth areas before the new seal is installed. When retightening the pinion nut, it is important not to overcrush the crush sleeve.
2. What gears are best for my car?
To find what gears are best for you, it would be wise to use the search function of this website to look at cars that are similar to yours in modification. In general, most people with 6 speed cars choose 4.10s, and most people with automatic cars choose 3.73s. However once you start adding modifications like a new camshaft or a forced induction system, you should spend time researching before you decide. Automatic LS1 cars come with 3.23s or 2.73s from the factory, and six speed LS1 cars have 3.42 gears.
3. What is a gear ratio, and how do I know what I have?
If your car's rear end is untouched, you can go by the RPO codes to find out what it came with. RPO codes are three digits, and are listed either in the door jamb or in the glove box.
GU2 = 2.73
GU5 = 3.23
GU6 = 3.42
A gear ratio is the number of teeth on one gear compared to another. To find the ratio, you divide the number of teeth on the driven gear by the number of teeth on the driving gear. For instance, the number of teeth on a ring (driven) gear is 41. The number of teeth on a pinion (driving) gear is 10. 41 divided by 10 = 4.10.
4. What can I expect to pay for a gear upgrade?
A set of gears themselves will cost $150-$250 depending on what brand you purchase. Most shops will charge $250-$400 in labor, and may add more for supplies. Overall, you will spend $400-$700 on a gear change depending on your location. Don’t skip out and go with the cheapest one – be certain that a trained professional is handling your installation!
5. Can I set up my own rear end?
You may or may not be able to, depending on your level experience. If you perform all of your own installations and are patient, it is possible to perform it yourself, but it would really help to have someone who has done it before to help you through your first time. Setting up pinion depth & backlash are vital to a well-working rear end. Gears that are not set up correctly will whine or howl, and fail prematurely.
If you want to read more about installing gears, visit the site below for a complete how-to.
www.keliente.com/gears.htm
6. Is a 10 bolt even worth putting money into?
Theoretically, a 10 bolt is going to be weaker than a 12 bolt, or Ford 9 inch rear end due to the size, but that doesn’t make it useless. Some people have more luck with 10 bolts than others, obviously. The life of your rear end will depend on how you drive and maintain your car. If you are running slicks at the drag strip and launching from 6,000 rpms, something is bound to break eventually. If you don’t keep up on fluid and let it run low, the bearings will fail prematurely. If your gears are not set up correctly, it’s more bad news. However there ARE people out there who have ridden their 10 bolt right into 10 second passes in the quarter mile.
Whether you will need a ‘better’ rear end is up to you. If you are replacing parts of your 10 bolt every other week, yes, it’s time for an upgrade. Don't be "that guy" who can't afford a 12 bolt, yet is installing a new gear set in the 10 bolt every week!!
7. Are some gears noisier than others?
Yes, some gears (such as Richmond) will be noisier than others. However, the noise should not be overpowering. If it is unbearable, the gears may have been set up incorrectly.
8. What is backlash?
Backlash is the play between the ring and the pinion, i.e., how much space there is exactly before the pinion actually contacts the ring. It is measured with a dial indicator gauge (either magnetic or clip on). Too little backlash will make for a bad whine, and too much makes for a sloppy setup. In general, different manufacturers call for .006” - .010” backlash (some may even allow for more).
9. What is a ‘paddle’, and a paddle kit for that matter?
A paddle takes the place of an axle pin in a Torsen differential car. Instead of a thin cylinder, it is shaped like a block and is held in with an 8mm bolt. The purpose of a paddle or axle pin is keep the axles pushed outward, and thus retained with the c-clips. Sometimes when installing different gears, a paddle kit may be needed for re-installation. SLP’s paddle kit is a two piece paddle that allows it to fit. To decide if you will need one or not, be sure to contact the sponsor from whom you are purchasing the gears.
10. Besides gears, what do I need for an install?
It is good practice to replace all of the bearings when installing new gears…if you have the rear apart anyway; it only takes extra minutes to replace the bearings. A good master installation kit will include everything you need, but specifically if you choose to replace everything you will need: carrier bearings (2), front pinion bearing, rear pinion bearing, crush sleeve, pinion nut, axle bearings (2), axle seals (2), pinion seal, a set of shims, gear paint, loctite, RTV gasket maker, 75w90 (2), GM rear end additive (for LSDs). It is also a good idea to replace the ring gear bolts, which may stretch over time. They are left hand thread, fyi.
11. I can’t get my axles out, they won’t slide in far enough to remove the c-clips!
Got a car with traction control? The sensor is prohibiting the axle to move in far enough. Remove the sensor from the backing plate and it will allow you more room to slide it inward to drop the c-clips.
12. What is a series 2 or series 3 carrier, and what do I have?
A 2 series carrier is a car that came with 3.08s or lower from the factory (i.e. all of your 2.73 cars). A 3 series carrier is a car that came with 3.23s or higher. This is very important when you order new gears, as they will differ from 2 to 3 series carrier!
13. What gear oil should I use?
You can find this in the owner's manual. Otherwise, 75w90 or 80w90 will work fine. It is not necessary to use synthetic oil. Also if you have an auburn carrier you will need the limited slip additive.
14. How much gas mileage will I lose going up in ratio?
This question is going to depend on different things...such as whether your car is a manual or automatic, how big of a jump you made in gear ratio, and how much city and highway driving you do. However, it is pretty safe to say that the performance and fun-factor gains are going to be worth whatever miniscule gas mileage you may lose.
15. What's the difference between a 3 channel and 4 channel rear?
A three channel rear end has ABS. A 4 channel rear end has ABS and traction control. A 'channel' is just a way of describing the means for a speed sensor to gauge the wheel speed. On a 3 channel rear end, the two front wheels have sensors, and there is one sensor on top of the rear end housing that reads for the whole rear. On a 4 channel rear end, there is a speed sensor at every wheel. 4 channel rear ends have reluctor wheels on each axle, 3 channel rears have one big reluctor ring on the differential. Because a 4 channel has a sensor at each rear wheel it can see the difference in speed between one wheel and the other, and ta-da, you have traction control.
16. Will a 3 channel rear end work in my 4 channel car?
Yes, you can make it work, if you put the axles from your four channel car into the 3 channel rear end and install the sensors into the backing plate. To put a 4 series into a 3 series would be more difficult, because it would require you to drill in the top of the rear housing for the sensor, and add a reluctor ring to the carrier as well.
17. Can't I just edit ASR/ABS out of the PCM with tuning software?
The answer is no, because the PCM does not control these functions. They are regulated by the EBCM (electronic brake control module) which is attached to the ABS pump. So if you attempt to swap the wrong rear into your car and don't hook it up right, the dash lights will illuminate...unless you pull the bulbs, or put electrical tape over the lights. The EBCM will kill the dash lights when everything passes its own self-test.
08-26-2006, 09:51 PM
#2
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 106
Re: Rear End FAQ
Some helpful definitions of common rear-end terms:
Backlash – the play between the ring and pinion gear
Differential – a gear arrangement that allows the drive wheels to be driven at different speeds
C-clip – a c-shaped piece of metal used to retain an axle shaft
Coast – a load condition in which the vehicle is driving the engine, as during deceleration
Drive – a load condition where the engine is applying power to the drive wheels
Heel – the outer end of a gear tooth
Limited slip differential (LSD) – a differential that uses internal clutches to limit the speed difference between the axles.
Pinion depth – how deep the pinion gear is in the housing, where it contacts the ring gear
Race – a hardened surface for the bearing rollers/***** to roll on (kind of ‘cups’ the bearing)
Toe – the inner end of a ring gear tooth
Backlash – the play between the ring and pinion gear
Differential – a gear arrangement that allows the drive wheels to be driven at different speeds
C-clip – a c-shaped piece of metal used to retain an axle shaft
Coast – a load condition in which the vehicle is driving the engine, as during deceleration
Drive – a load condition where the engine is applying power to the drive wheels
Heel – the outer end of a gear tooth
Limited slip differential (LSD) – a differential that uses internal clutches to limit the speed difference between the axles.
Pinion depth – how deep the pinion gear is in the housing, where it contacts the ring gear
Race – a hardened surface for the bearing rollers/***** to roll on (kind of ‘cups’ the bearing)
Toe – the inner end of a ring gear tooth
08-26-2006, 09:53 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 106
Re: Rear End FAQ
Here's an answer for another question I see a lot...
When will my 10 bolt break?
Unfortunately, there is no 'set' horsepower where the 10 bolt will give out. It can break on stock power, at 350hp, 400hp, even 500hp+ for some lucky ones.
Because you cannot gauge exactly when it will break, it is important to think ahead a little bit, and take some steps to preserving your 10 bolt if a 12 bolt is not in your immediate plans.
Track hints:
1. If you are going to be drag racing frequently and plan on running very sticky drag radials, you might want to think about getting to know someone who has a truck & trailer, just in case.
2. If you have an automatic car, you have a better chance of a longer-lasting rear end, due to less shock in the drivetrain. This does not mean it will never break - it'll just last longer.
3. Cars that come equipped with Torsen (mechanical) differentials tend to have more problems than Auburn (clutched) differentials. You can see which differential you have at your next rear-end fluid changing interval. If you have a torsen rear end, you will see gears inside of the differential, and there will be a steel block pushing your axles out. If you have an Auburn differential, you will see bright yellow springs inside of it.
3a. The torsens seem to wear out quicker whether you race or not. Tell-tale signs of a fading torsen are ratcheting/clunking noises when turning/low speeds/etc. If your torsen does break, you can replace it with another, or pick up an aftermarket carrier.
Preserving your 10-bolt:
1. Eliminate wheel hop. Suspension is very important - what good is a lot of power if you cannot channel it to the ground effectively? Wheel hop breaks rear ends. To minimize wheel hop consider stiffening your suspension. Aftermarket lower control arms, relocation brackets, panhard bars, even torque arms will help plant your rear to the ground.
2. Maintain your differential. Always keep an eye on the fluid. Fluid seeping from the pinion seal is normal on these cars, but if it begins to drip onto the floor have it replaced.
3. If your rear end makes a considerable amount of noise, or you have had gears installed and the noise continually gets worse, consider having the car looked at. Failure of individual parts can trigger others to fail as well, so try and fix the problem before it gets any worse.
How do I beef up my 10 bolt?
You don't.
It seems like too easy of an answer, but it holds true. The 10 bolt will always be limited by the fact that it is simply smaller than a 12 bolt, 9 inch, or Dana 60. Smaller = weaker.
Besides replacing the ring & pinion and bearings, adding aftermarket parts such as stronger axles only seems to be a waste of money. The minute you fix one thing, another will break. Rear end installs can be costly if you are not doing the labor yourself - it adds up quick.
When will my 10 bolt break?
Unfortunately, there is no 'set' horsepower where the 10 bolt will give out. It can break on stock power, at 350hp, 400hp, even 500hp+ for some lucky ones.
Because you cannot gauge exactly when it will break, it is important to think ahead a little bit, and take some steps to preserving your 10 bolt if a 12 bolt is not in your immediate plans.
Track hints:
1. If you are going to be drag racing frequently and plan on running very sticky drag radials, you might want to think about getting to know someone who has a truck & trailer, just in case.
2. If you have an automatic car, you have a better chance of a longer-lasting rear end, due to less shock in the drivetrain. This does not mean it will never break - it'll just last longer.
3. Cars that come equipped with Torsen (mechanical) differentials tend to have more problems than Auburn (clutched) differentials. You can see which differential you have at your next rear-end fluid changing interval. If you have a torsen rear end, you will see gears inside of the differential, and there will be a steel block pushing your axles out. If you have an Auburn differential, you will see bright yellow springs inside of it.
3a. The torsens seem to wear out quicker whether you race or not. Tell-tale signs of a fading torsen are ratcheting/clunking noises when turning/low speeds/etc. If your torsen does break, you can replace it with another, or pick up an aftermarket carrier.
Preserving your 10-bolt:
1. Eliminate wheel hop. Suspension is very important - what good is a lot of power if you cannot channel it to the ground effectively? Wheel hop breaks rear ends. To minimize wheel hop consider stiffening your suspension. Aftermarket lower control arms, relocation brackets, panhard bars, even torque arms will help plant your rear to the ground.
2. Maintain your differential. Always keep an eye on the fluid. Fluid seeping from the pinion seal is normal on these cars, but if it begins to drip onto the floor have it replaced.
3. If your rear end makes a considerable amount of noise, or you have had gears installed and the noise continually gets worse, consider having the car looked at. Failure of individual parts can trigger others to fail as well, so try and fix the problem before it gets any worse.
How do I beef up my 10 bolt?
You don't.
It seems like too easy of an answer, but it holds true. The 10 bolt will always be limited by the fact that it is simply smaller than a 12 bolt, 9 inch, or Dana 60. Smaller = weaker.
Besides replacing the ring & pinion and bearings, adding aftermarket parts such as stronger axles only seems to be a waste of money. The minute you fix one thing, another will break. Rear end installs can be costly if you are not doing the labor yourself - it adds up quick.
08-30-2006, 07:15 AM
#8
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Okemos, MI
Posts: 9,479
Re: Rear End FAQ
Excellent write-up. A couple comments:
It'd be great if you added the following to your list of terms:
Backing plate
Crush sleeve
While I'm personally in your boat as far as not bothering with beefing up the 10-bolt, there are plenty of guys who have had success with girdles and strengthened rear-end covers. Don't you think these at least deserve a mention? Those among us who don't have $2500 to drop on a 12-bolt could certainly use some more affordable ways to prolong the life of our stock rear ends.
Thanks!
It'd be great if you added the following to your list of terms:
Backing plate
Crush sleeve
While I'm personally in your boat as far as not bothering with beefing up the 10-bolt, there are plenty of guys who have had success with girdles and strengthened rear-end covers. Don't you think these at least deserve a mention? Those among us who don't have $2500 to drop on a 12-bolt could certainly use some more affordable ways to prolong the life of our stock rear ends.
Thanks!
08-31-2006, 11:02 AM
#9
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Buffalo, New York
Posts: 10,745
Re: Rear End FAQ
Originally Posted by JakeRobb
Excellent write-up. A couple comments:
It'd be great if you added the following to your list of terms:
Backing plate
Crush sleeve
While I'm personally in your boat as far as not bothering with beefing up the 10-bolt, there are plenty of guys who have had success with girdles and strengthened rear-end covers. Don't you think these at least deserve a mention? Those among us who don't have $2500 to drop on a 12-bolt could certainly use some more affordable ways to prolong the life of our stock rear ends.
Thanks!
It'd be great if you added the following to your list of terms:
Backing plate
Crush sleeve
While I'm personally in your boat as far as not bothering with beefing up the 10-bolt, there are plenty of guys who have had success with girdles and strengthened rear-end covers. Don't you think these at least deserve a mention? Those among us who don't have $2500 to drop on a 12-bolt could certainly use some more affordable ways to prolong the life of our stock rear ends.
Thanks!
Rich
08-31-2006, 11:52 AM
#10
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Buffalo, New York
Posts: 10,745
Re: Rear End FAQ
One correction: you can, for practical purposes, disable ASR (traction control) in the PCM software by setting maximum ignition retard to zero degrees. I'd have to look at it to be sure if the throttle modulation can also be disabled, but I believe it can be.
Rich
Rich
09-11-2006, 08:38 PM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Posts: 953
Re: Rear End FAQ
Originally Posted by rskrause
One correction: you can, for practical purposes, disable ASR (traction control) in the PCM software by setting maximum ignition retard to zero degrees. I'd have to look at it to be sure if the throttle modulation can also be disabled, but I believe it can be.
09-12-2006, 06:13 PM
#14
Moderator
Join Date: Dec 1969
Location: Buffalo, New York
Posts: 10,745
Re: Rear End FAQ
Originally Posted by JakeRobb
ASR activates the brakes? I thought it only cut power.
It starts with cutting timing, then closes the throttle, then applies the brakes in sequence.
Rich
09-14-2006, 04:14 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Savannah GA
Posts: 838
Re: Rear End FAQ
I know you had mentioned that its not worth beefing up the 10 bolt. But I have read an article in High Performance Pontiac that shows you how to beef up your stock 10 bolt..... Now I know that a 12 bolt or a 9in is always better but for those of us that don't have the money you can beef it up to handle 450 to 500HP.
1. Take your axle to an axle shop and have them straighten it.
2. Weld your axle tubes to your center section ( they are only pressed in from the factory).
3. Replace your differental with a high performance unit like an auburn or an eaton.
4. Throw some stronger axles in ie. Moser
5. Add a TA diff cover
Those 5 things will strenthen your rear a bit and should be able to handle most peoples LS1 or other apps as long as they are below 500HP. If you have the money go with a moser 12bolt or a ford 9in but for us budget minded people this may be a better route to go.
1. Take your axle to an axle shop and have them straighten it.
2. Weld your axle tubes to your center section ( they are only pressed in from the factory).
3. Replace your differental with a high performance unit like an auburn or an eaton.
4. Throw some stronger axles in ie. Moser
5. Add a TA diff cover
Those 5 things will strenthen your rear a bit and should be able to handle most peoples LS1 or other apps as long as they are below 500HP. If you have the money go with a moser 12bolt or a ford 9in but for us budget minded people this may be a better route to go.