Chimera96

Given the Twin is a heavier clutch than stock single disc, going with the AL flywheel should be OK for street use in a F-body. I have a heavier car and do drag race so I went with the steel

you will need a 13/16 MC for the Twin for the LT1 "pull" clutch. You can either buy it from McLeod, or assume places like Summit also, or get the Tick.

McLeod uses the Wilwood compact MC and just makes the "adapter" and adjustable rod. Tick, IIRC, uses a Tilton MC and does the same for adapter and adjustable rod so either will work

the stock slave is what you attach to the larger bore MC. Pedal effort is "slightly" (read barely) more than stock due to the larger bore MC

Chimera96

on buying the used clutch, there are shims required between the bottom disc and floater plate. A New Twin comes fully assembled so you just keep track of the various sizes on each stand on the install but the procedure still has you checkinh with a feeler gauge to confirm

I note this because the used clutch may not have been re-assembled or packaged in a way preserving these shims and placement properly.

Mcleod can provide a package of shims if necessary

I set mine up at .022. The stand on the left side in the pic has the shims under the floater plate straps. The stand for the PP also has a large spacer & washer but it is the distance between the bottom disc and floater plate you need to confirm height on.

You can download install instructions from McLeod if the used clutch does not come with them

Thirim

Thanks! You sure know your Street Twin clutch!

Chimera96

The Twin does require some additional steps in install, and some verification measurement for stack height, but otherwise is straight forward.

Given the MC you use is adjustable...you will need to set the rod length so you initially "guess" how long to extend it or just initially set it so the pedal is the same height as it was before as a base setting.

I will encourage you do "slowly" depress the clutch the first time with motor running as if you do have the adjustable MC rod adjusted to long you can actually extend the fork onto the PP.....and if holding in the clutch to start the car for the 1st time and the fork is jammed against the PP...you will kill the starter teeth.

Anyway just be aware of that so you have no surprises. You want the MC rod adjusted enough so when you push in the clutch you have full disengagement. You check this by having the rear wheels off the ground, engine running, tranny in gear with clutch fully depressed...the rear wheels should not move. If they do you need to adjust the MC rod out 1 turn at a time until you do get full disengagement. "Sometimes" you need to shorten the "T" stud that holds the clutch fork on but generally you do not have to do that. I just mention it because I did as I could not get the clutch to fully disengage without the fork buzzing the PP. Just took off .025 from the base of the "T" per Mcleod when I called their Tech about my particular issue

Thirim

Thanks again!