Performabuilt

Performabuilt

These are just a few of the things used in the level 1 build

1-Shown 1st and 2nd pictures are the rear and front planets. The planet clearance is allowed by GM up to .025 we never use a planet with excess of .020 clearance.

2-Next shown is the new low/reverse clutch set. All frictions are replaced with new.
3-The 4th picture shown is the new low/reverse steel plates

4-The 5th picture shown is a device called a case saver. It replaces the stock anti clunk spring and more evenly distributes shock against the case lugs. This helps to prevent excessive lug wear in the case or breakage of the case or lugs.

5-The 6th picture shown are the forward frictions these are the borg warner type. They are only used in our level 1. They are and excellent clutch but we use something stronger in our levels 2 and 3.

6-The 7th picture shown is of the new forward clutch steels Notice on all steels the finish is not real slick rather its just a little rough, This is to allow some oil to remain trapped between the frictions and the steels for cooling.

7-8th picture is of the high energy frictions used in the 3-4 clutch in this level, We install 9 of them stock is six or seven depending on model years 7004r-4l65e. The levels 2 and 3 get a different clutch set.

8-The 9th picture is of new reverse input frictions again frictions are never reused in any of our units.

9-The 10th picture is of the red wide band we use it has porven itself and impressive peice and is used in both our levels 1 and 2

10-11th pic is of the new pump stator Its very important this peice be in good shape for those rebuilding transmissions thenselves there is a comonly missed problem with these. Always feel around carefully where the teflon rings from the input shaft ride inside this tube as any wear there or even small grooves will result in premature failure of one or more of the clutch sets in the input drum.

11-The Precision seal kit we use is shown in the 12th picture. All seals are replaced in every unit.

12-13 and 14 are two of the steel pistons we use in place of the aluminum pistons that come stock in many units. Very late units allready have these. They are replaced in every unit.

13-15 is a pictures of the pump vanes these are replaced in every unit along with many of the other parts in the pump. I didnt have pictures of.

14-Picture 16 is of a new corvette servo used in our level 1 (Stock in F bodies and GTOs) Our levels 2 and 3 use upgraded servos

15- This picture # 17 is a picture of the bushings and some of the accum servos we replace in every unit.

16-#18 is a picture of a Borg Warner dual cage input sprag standard on all our build levels

17-#19 is a picture of one of the new style wiring harnesses we use with late models. Theres a nice improvement done to the plug for the PCS eliminating loose conection problems associated with the previous design.

18-#20 is a picture os the beast sun shell the sungear installed. The beast is not used with the level-1 but is with the levels-2 and 3. The level 1 gets a new hardened late GM style sunshell which though not as strong as the beast it a nice peice. Didnt have a picture of it.


Anyway these are just a few of the things that go into our level one at lease things I have pictures of. All friction areas are allways replaced never reused. All seals and steel modled pistons and new. Along with many other things I have not gone into. The level 1 has surprised us several times as a number of people have bought it and then later exceeded the max rating we placed on it and the are still going strong. click here for website level 1

Performabuilt

CLICK HERE FOR WEBSITE LEVEL2 INFORMATION
1-The planets , These are carfully inspected pinion to side clearance must be less than .020 max allowed GM clearance is .025 they are also inspected for any signs of stress or wear and if do not meet our minimum standards are replaced.


The LOW/REVERSE friction we use are the same in all Levels High quality Borg warner or Raybestos. These frictions are only applied in manual low 1 and reverse and are never on in any other gear position. Or during any automatic shift. I have noted that some people think these clutches are the first gear clutches. In fact there are no first gear clutches, Actual first gear is created when the low/roller sprag holds and the forward clutch is on. This set only acts to provide the engine overun braking effect in manual low. However having the car in manual low on a hard launch can be benificial as this set being on does help to support the low roller clucth just as the Overun clutch set can also help support the Input sprag as it is also on in manual Low 1. Just a little FYI. Launchig in manual low can be good to help strengthen these two areas of the trans.


Next the center support/Low roller clutch is inspected and a new roller/spring assembly install. I didnt have any pictures of this. But do have a picture of the case saver used in all levels. We use this in place of the anti clunk spring to help protect the case from damage from the very agressive shift of the center support that can occur during a hard launch. This peice eliminates case damage caused by the metal support slamming into the case by distributing the force more evenly.


Next in the level 2 we install the Beast sun shell along with sun gear which contains a new bushing and improvments to increase lube to the rear planet.We have to date never seen a beast shell strip or break. This is and exstremely strong peice and needs to be since it takes the full force of the engine on the second,fourth and reverse gears.


Next the input drum we remove the input shaft from the and inspect both the shaft and the drum for wear/cracks or any other damage.Reinstall the shaft into the drum and install new teflon rings on the shaft. We then install new steel molded steel pistons into the drum these are preferred to the aluminum pistons that are prone to crack and cause failure. Along with these we install new return spring cages and snap ring to hold it all in place. I did not have pictures of all of this. But here ae a couple I did have of the steel pistons.


We then install new overun frictions, The lube seal and The new Borg Warner dual cage sprag. We the install the forward frictions this is where our level 2 starts to differ from the level 1. Rather than using the paper grooved frictions like we do in the level 1 we opt to use the smoothe composite frictions here. The plus side is tighter grip, better heat durability and more surface area in this clutch pack which must hold all the engines power through all the forward gears except 4th.The only downside we have found is a slightly firmer engagment into drive from reverse,neutral or park. Of course with a high stall converter this is not noticable at all.

Performabuilt

Now again different from the level 1 we use the ZPack by Raybestos we have had excellent results with these. I have seen situation where there was a presure issue Such as low fluid level or PCS failure where these clutches became really hot from slipping under those conditions and yet on tear down though you could certainly tell they got really hot they were nearly still in good enough shape to reuse, I was impressed. Of course we wouldnt reuse them it was just very nice to see how well they had endured. I have seen OEM frictions and some aftermarkets that have been through the same thing and the friction material usually paper be completely gone, Burned away.We set a minimum clearance for this set and then reinstall the square helper springs into the drum. The purpose in these is not well understood by many. But they prevent centrifical apply of the 3-4 clutch at High RPM this happens when fluild cannot escape from the 3-4 clutch chamber fast enough and it literally climbs the walls of the drum and applies the 3-4 clutch piston partially causing over a period of Hi RPM runs to eventually cause the 3-4 clutch to burn or wear excessivley.

Heres a short video from Raybestos about this design
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com/mov/zpak.wmv

Now we inspect the reverse input drum replacing bushings and measuring the run out accross the 2-4 band apply surface. MAX runout when using the Wide band can be no more than .005 from edge to edge. If it is more than this the drum must be replaced and we end up doing that quite often. In either case the drum is resurfaced with the apropriate finish and a light crosshatch for the band. The new Seals and A new friction set is installed. The drum is then placed on the input drum and the assembly installed. At this time we temporarily install the pump and set inout shaft end play to as close to min spec as possible with the assorted selective washers used on top of the input drum. Dont have alot of pictures yet for this. Heres a picture of the reverse input frictions.


The Wide Redlined band is installed the same one used in the level 1 as its plenty durable with reinforced band lug area we have never seen one tear through or break.Now this again is where things start to change from the level 1 We now use and install the fairbanks one peice billet servo. This servo has the largest apply area of any servo possible. Its a very simple billet aluminum cut and very durable. It also have the added benifit of reducing 3-4 clutch accumulation. It does not completely eliminate it however since a much heavier return spring is used between it and the case. So the 3-4 clutch oil must still fill the chamber to release the band. Band clearance is checked and ajusted as needed. We then use the SONNAX dual picton super hold servo for 4th gear. Between it, The wide band and the Zpack holding WOT ,shifts to 4th should never be a problem.The band clearance must be checked for both the second and fourth servos as one could be fine and the other be excessive, We do not suggest using the Fairbanks billet servo with any stock band as the band lugs are not strong enough and this will result in band lug tearing through the eye causing loss of second and fourth gears. For upgrades to the stock trans stick with the corvette or sonnax second gear servo.


We now assemble the pump with new bushings and Vanes all clearances are carefully checked and the nessesary actions taken where needed to assure the pump is straight and clean. And questionable part is replaced without exception and a large boost valve installed.Along with mods for increased lubrication cooling and converter charge. All seals again are new. The stator is removed and changed as needed. Many end up being changed. A common mistakein a build is not checking the inside of the tube where the input shaft teflon rings ride and grrove or wear here will cause premature failure of the frictions in the Input drum. If theres any wear here grooves etc at all the stator tube must be replaced. Again dont have pictures of this as I had no idea I was going to write this till now.So just using what I do have.



The valve body is the disassembled and inspected. Solenoids replaced. Our own shift kit installed it provides nice part throttle shifts reasonabe but firm and as throttle is increased the shift become progressivly firmer. We use new accumulator pistons and we do not restrict 1-2 accumulator as the Billet servo has plenty adequate force and hold to provide a positive 1-2 shift. And helps considerably with the 2-3 shift with nether being too agressive. The valve body plate is inspected, If it is bent holes warn or inferior in anyway it is replaced with a new one.Its a pretty simple call they are either perfect or they are not. Many of our cores are 03 up so we get quite a few good ones,
The wiring harness again is carfully inspected and new oring installed and these are only reused when is absolutly perfect condition again its a simple call its either perfect or bad. If its bad a new one is installed

Performabuilt

A test pan and filter are placed on each unit, It is Then installed in our test vehicle filled with fluid and run for at least 1 hour Constantly shifts up and down through the gears. Lockup turned off and on over and over. While this is done the presure is monitored for any unusual deviations. With any sign of trouble the unit is pulled and checked to find out why, Once the unit has passed the test and the test chart filled out, The unit is removed and the pan removed and inspected for any unusual debris etc, If all is clear there, antoher pan and a new fitler is installed and the trans is packed for shipping.
During the test notes are made on a sheet that goes in the transmission buyers folder we keep for presure in all gears, Shift feel and temperatures reached. So we are confident about the product we ship.

Performabuilt

Click the pictures below to watch









Working on the info for the level 3 now will be up next the videos shown are cars with the levels 2 and 3. Just to give you and idea of how they respond. These have all been out there for quite sometime. I have several more to add just got to figure out some sizing issues

Performabuilt

Here at PerformaBuilt we are allways looking for ways we can help our customers, We have and even provide test equipment when needed, The Picture below is of one such device. It has over the past year saved both us and the customer $1000 of dollars in unessesary repairs and returns.

We actually have two of these. I built them they are not the prettiest but very functional. As you can see there are a series of switches. The first two to the left of the picture turn the Shift solenoids A and B or (1-2 and 2-3) shift soleniods off and on.
This box is plugged directly into the transmission.Using these two swicthes you can create any gear and verify that the transmission is capable of shifting reguarless of the PCM comand.
The next switch over is lockup enable. This switch will turn on the converter clutch. This is vey helpfull in determining if a lockup issue is trans/ converter related or tuning/pcm related. The small red push button lower left is for the PCS its a simple test max or min line presure and is used to verify normal shifts in conditions similar to Light throttle or WOT. The small black button is for the 3-2 solenoid and while you really cant feel any change with it its was included to verify function by ear listening to it click.

This box has a long cable and plugs into your lighter socket and the directly to the trans round plug on top. This way you can keep it in the car with you and verify function in all conditions. And it still does even more if either of the 1-2,2-3 or lockup solenoid or circuits is open it will illuminate both the red and green LEDs at the same time. This would instantly tell you there was and open connection to one of these solenoids. Alternatly if theres a short, the orange LED at the lower right will go off as power will be disabled to the box again telling you there was and electrical issue with a shorted internl transmission wire or solenoid.

In normal operation the red LED is on when the solenoid is off and the green LED is on when the solenoid is on. We use this box when a customer seems to have and issue with shifting of some sort that cannot be explained or with lockup.

We send it to the customer so they will not have to spend $ and lots of time chasing there tails over these type issues. Which I know all of you see these Type problems pop up regularly with any vendors trans or converter regularly (no lockup-Wont upshift-Wont downshift etc).

With this our customer can know without guess work where to look for a problem. If the box allows all to work normally then they know to look at the tuning if the box cannot cause normal operation. Then We know the correct direction to head to help get the issue solved. Most of the time the box when it goes out ends up only verifying the trans is in working order.

Now some might say you could duplicate this with a tuner or tuning software and even some scanners and to some extent that is true. However we have see cases for instance where a tuner was used to comand lockup and no lockup occurred and yet with this device it worked normally.

When this happens even though tuning is not part of what we offer we have yet another box I do not have a picture of it as there is only one and it is on loan to one of our dealers presently. The other box has leads on it I call puncture leads. There function is to be directly connected to the cars harness wires one for each solenoid. this may be done under the car or at the PCM. We send diagrams for both but its generally simpler to hook at at harness under car . It has and LED for each solenoid in the trans . The LEDs will light up when the PCM turns on any solenoid. This has in a few cases though its not common proved that just because the tuning software or a scanner says something was comanded or turned on (lockup) (shift solenids) That does not mean that the PCM actually did it.

Anyway I thought you guys might find this interesting its a handy tool That I built. Though you can buy similar tool called breakout boxes or schafter shifters in the after market they cost 1000s dollars and we couldnt risk just sending one of those out so this was a low cost solution to further help our customers in anyway we can.
We are allways committed to helping our customers solve any issue they may have reguardless of the cause or reason.
This is one area where that year of electronics engineering in school comes in handy. Just wish I had done better in english and grammer

Performabuilt

LINK TO THE HEAVY AND ROCKS CRAWLERS CLICK HERE

The Heavy duty series of our transmissions are similar in many ways to the Level 2 PRO RACE trans. Though they do not have the more performance oreinted shift charateristics associated with it.

i this unit the case is prepared like the other level and new case bushig installed. We then as with the level 2 install the 4 pinion planets carefully inspected and tolerance checked.


Now high quality LOW/REVERSE frictions are installed just like in the levels 2 and 3 However where in the case of performance transmissions this is not really a critical clutch set. it is in this unit because it may be called on regularly to back up heavy loads.



Then a new low roller sprag is installed as with the other units along with the beast sun shell again like the level 2 and 3 along with a case saver to replace the anti clunk spring possibly even more important again in these units since they are more likley to feel stress against the case more often than a performance unit



Now some things start to differ from the level 2 in this unit we use the grooved frictions in the forward clutch since there may be instances where these frictions are subject to low presure low throttle exstreme loads and the grooves do allow for better cooling in these situations where some clutch slipage is likley to occur and they have a somewhat less agressive apply.



The Borg warner 29 element dual cage sprag is also used in this unit like our levels 1- 2 and 3 along with the steel molded pistons. The aluminum are known to crack in high stress situations.



The next thing is the 3-4 clutch here we opt for the ALTO comercial heavy duty clutch set. While not intende for performance (some people do use them for that and they do seem to do quite well) We use the 9 friction set it comes as and assembly and from our expereince performs quite well in this application. In fact we have not to date seen a single 3-4 clutc failure when this trans was used in heavy duty use. But of course this is and entirley different type of stress than would be seen in a performance application.



Now like the levels 1 and 2 the wide redlined band is used in this unit,The difference being here we do not use the billet servo but instead opt for the corvette servo which is and upgrade for most trucks yet maintains a reasonable shift quality desired in this type application. Additionally we install the SONNAX super hold fourth servo which we also use in our levels 2 and 3 however its likley more needed here since the vehicles mostly trucks these are installed in are often used to TOW in overdrive.

Performabuilt

The stator is inspected and replaced as needed. The pump is allways conditioned and the vanes replaced. A boost valve apropriate for this application is installed it is not the larger one like used in our Performance units as this would make shifts too agressive for this application.



The Pump bushing is replaced and the TCC valve is modified to deliver and more positive TCC engagement.

The valve body is prepared all the ACCUM pistons like our other units are replaced with new ones. Accumuation is not limited in anyway . Anoher difference here from the other units is the feeds for the various clutches are made smaller than in our performance unit to reduce shift shock not desirable with this unit. wiring harness inspected and replaced as needed,
The unit is then finished assembled and sent to the tester.
Note in all units all seals are replaced reguardless.
This is just a breif description of all we do since much other than parts is convered in pervious post hope you enjoyed. I think the level 3 is going to be next.



Another unique aspect of this unit is all Heavy haulers and rocks crawlers come with a heavy duty clutch low stall converter.

Would this unit be up to a high performance task? Certainly its a good compromise between the levels 1 and 2 where drivability in the way of comfort is still a major concern.

These units are where several of us have our roots from. High HP 4x4 mud trucks hey if you have ever been to NEPA you would understand.

Performabuilt

A special thanks to Jason for helping me figure out how to do this

Performabuilt

Fluid level is spoken about often here are the facts. With and auto trans and in particular the 4L60E there is no such thing as low. If you let the trans get even 1/2 quart low you will and or have damaged your transmission. They are absolutley not forgiving. We recently did some intentional test with a unit we use to check different ideas. Heres what we found at 1/2 quart low aprox 1/2 inch bellow pan rail we ran the trans. We monitored presures etc. The presures in this condition were completely unstable. Jumping from very low to beyond the max of our 300 PSI guage.as you changed gears particulary on the 2-3 3-4 and the reverse gears this condition became worse. I could easily see how after doing these test you could do a mirade of damage to your trans even this small amount low. In the case of the low presure the result would be obvious burned frictions however at the same time the presure spikes could just as easily break parts, push out snap rings ect causing serious damage and or sudden failures.

Now in a past test several years ago I did a similar test going in the other direction too much fluid. Heres what happened there, this was however unlike the first test with a 4l60e it was a 700r4 though would imagine the results would be similar. Adding one quart over after hitting the full line did not seem to have any notable effect. However adding two quarts over the trans began again to have presures resembling the low fluid scenario the presue dropped and spiked eratically and of course the fluid began quickly to resemble the apearance of the low fluid trans lots of air bubbleS and since a trans is not so different from a brake system the result was similar. You cannot have stable hydraulic presure with air in the fluid.

The air created in the low fluid scenario is a result of the filter becoming uncovered and the pump pulling air into the system. With the resulting crazy presure readings and the exstremley high fluid this occured because the internal rotational assemblies in the trans were acting alot like a blender and churning air into the fluid more rapidly than it could bubble out.

The Point on this is fluid level is imperativly important with and auto. There is no such thing as a little low. A little low means you just took years off the life of your trans or even killed it right now.
All trans should always be kept at the top of the crosshatch level warm running in park or neutral. Idealy I wish there was a way to assure the trans fluid was equal to the pan rail level in gear running. But I do understand why they dont have you checking it that way

Another thing that should be addressed is aftermarket and stock deep pans. Some aftermarket pans while deep do not require a deep filter. Others require and exstention . Still others use the deep filter like goes in the truck 4L60E. Always carefully read the pan manufacturers instructions. While reguardless of the pan type the dip stick will still read the level correctly. If you for instance use a deep pan with the wrong filter bear in mind GM actually used the bottom of the pan to hold the filter up in place. True the little seal feels tight holding it in the pump but it can work its way out and drop into the pan when used this way. This will result in the trans acting like its low on fluid even when its not. At the same time if you place a fliter thats too tall for your pan combination it will crack in the neck area and again cause the syptom of low fluid. I thought I would mention this because we have run into this with some of our own customers changing pans and not being aware of the filter differences and requirements. So allways make sure you are using the correct type filter for the pan you are installing. Also note when installing a trans if you do not provide even support accross the pan again you can bend the pan and damage the filter causing the same set of syptoms

Performabuilt

What do you guys think should I go through the LEVEL 3 next or since so little seems to be known about them should I do converters next?

AL SS590 M6

Nice write ups. Level 3 next.

Performabuilt

Will do my best to get that this weekend

Performabuilt

1-What size are the TORX screws that holds my bellhousing to my transmission, and what is the best way to remove them?
The bit is called a T50 plus and is available from sonnax,napa and snapon. However, you can use a modified T50. Purchase a quality T50 bit and grind about 1/32 inch off the end. Do not use the bits with a hole in the end. The grind amount is approx. as it varies from one brand to another, but the goal is to grind until the bit fits tight in the screw head. The bits get progressively larger as they get near the top, so grinding more off effectively makes the bit larger. Then bear in mind that the screws are held in with red loctite, so they are held in fairly tight. Use small propane torch (the ones that cost around 5 dollars at the hardware store) and heat the thread end (not the bolt head) to around 275 to 300 degrees. Then (generally) the screws will come right out. Make sure you have the bit lined up straight in the screw, and keep it that way. Do not use an impact wrench - if it jumps out it will strip the bolt. Then you would have a much larger problem.

2-Why doesn’t my speedometer work?
Check that the Vehicle Speed Sensor (for 4L60E/65E) or speedometer cable (for 700R) is connected. On 4L60E/65E units this may cause a no shift situation or erratic shifts. Note: The 700R4 does not have the correct speedometer gears installed, so you must take the gears and driven assembly from your old unit and install them on the new 700R4.

3- My new transmission is installed, and it doesn’t shift. It also feels like it is slipping or in a higher gear than what I expected.
Check that the wiring harness is fully plugged into the transmission, Check all fuses, and see if the engine SES light is on (you can also scan for codes), If the SES light is on, or codes are present, this is generally considered an electronics issue. If it’s a 700R4, did you hook up the TV cable?

4-I have a 3000 or higher stall converter and I just installed my new 4L60E. When I drive normally everything feels great, but at full throttle I bounce off the rev limiter.
Many 4L60E cars with a stall at or over 3000 rpm may require the tuning parameters for speed and rpm be reconfigured to compensate for the higher stall. (This is sometimes refered to as stall wall)

5-I just installed my new transmission (or converter) and it does not move. What could be wrong?
The most common reason for this is that the converter was not fully seated in the pump, which should have shown itself when there was difficulty turning the converter, Provided you have enough fluid in it. Remove one line from the transmission cooler, Start the vehicle and fluid should come spraying out, If this does not happen, you may have broken the pump and will need to remove the transmission and repair. Hopefully, you have not destroyed converter.

6-How much fluild do I need for my install,
Get a case and add till full you may have a couple left over but its better to have that than not enough when all the stores are closed.

8-My converter in my 4L60/65 dosent lock up or only locks up intermitantly.
The most common cause of this issue is misfire it may not show as a code but in some cars will cause the SES light to blink irrratically, Also note the engine temp must be above 135 f for the PCM to allow lockup. If you have and SES light on as always scan for codes first then contact us for help.

9-I was driving my car at WOT and it would not shift into 4th whats wrong?
Nothing unless you have the 4L60E PCM programed to make a WOT 4th shift it is disallowed in the factory tune. The 700R4 alternatley cannot do a WOT shift into fourth unless it has a modiied TV plunger sleeve .

10-My 700R4 or 4L60E will shift from first to second even when I have it in manual low is something wrong?
No both trans, but for different reasons are comanded to upshift at very high rpm or speed from first gear, Each require a special shift kit to avoid this, This kit is only available in our level 3 units.

11- My speedometer is not working and my car wont change gears,
Check for codes and the wiring of your VSS (vehicle speed censor) this measure ment is required for shifts to properly occur.

13 – What’s this little bag of seals for that came with my transmission?
That bag contains seals for different applications. You may, or may not, need some of them. Just use what you need to install your particular transmission and do not worry about the rest.

16 - How do I test my stall speed?
Truly accurate testing of a converter stall is nearly impossible once you install it in your car. You can get some idea using a transbrake. Barring that, the next best thing would be to put the car in limp mode, 3rd gear, and nail it suddenly. Then watch the tach. The rpm it flashes to is close to your stall speed. Brake stalling is meaningless and gives no useful information.

17 - There is a clunking sound when my car shifts. What could it be?
Check the torque arm and mount. They are the most common reasons.

18 - My car has second gear start capability and/or a performance shift button. Will these still work with your transmission?
Yes these are functions of the PCM not the transmission. They will continue to function as they did before, although a bit enhanced in the performance mode.

19-My car cannot select first gear or has no first gear position. Why, and what can I do?
Some models have a plastic stop formed in the gate. Simply remove the console, cut off the plastic piece, and you will be able to select 1st gear manually.

20-I just installed my converter and I’m getting code PO7xx. What’s wrong and what should I do?
These codes are sometime set when a high stall (usually higher than 3000) is installed, but not always and not always immediately. They can be corrected through tuning when the PCM does not understand the RPM/SPEED offset with the new converter. From my understanding this involves removing the test for the code, not simply clearing the code.

24-Do I need to have a cooler with my converter or transmission?
The answer to this question is yes and we furnish every unit with one. While not having a cooler is not going to cause your transmission to die tomorrow, heat will kill it in the long run by hardening seals and gaskets. Having a stall converter will only compound this problem. Installing a cooler is just a good idea.


26-I just changed my rear end ratio. Now my transmission doesn’t shift right. It shifts too early or too late. What is wrong, and what should I do?
When making a gear change it is necessary to reprogram the PCM for the new gear ratio. This must be done with some form of tuning software.

27-EFILIVE can remove test for the code PO757 caused by high stall converters on the 05/06 GTOs

Note some numbers are skipped this is because this info is taken from our FAQ page http://performabuiltautomatics.com/hauler/FAQ.html And some information only pertains to our products and this is and information thread.