blac94Z

im thrown for a loop here you guys so i got my u joints changed on my car bc my driveshaft started to bump when i pressed on the gas changed the u joints saturday now the shop stated my driveshaft didnt need to be balanced so i put my shaft back in and it bumps and clanks really bad in rev. and drive what could this be ?

Injuneer

When they pulled the old u-joints out, did they show any signs of wear? How did you determine the u-joints were the problem in the first place?

Does it "clank" when you go from neutral to reverse? ... and when you go from neutral to drive?

blac94Z

well it all started with a vibration on the freeway and turned into a clicking and bumping after i was romping it on my way home from work,the rear u joint didnt really have any play but the front had a little bit of play so i just changed them now i put the driveshaft back in and now it sounds a loud clanking noise everytime the wheels get a full turn it starts to lock up i check the shaft to see if it was warped i didnt see it wobble and only in drive when there is torq moving the wheels

Injuneer

Are you indicating, that as the car moves forward, something seems to resist the turning? And is that resistance sensed while manually turning the wheels with them off the ground, or do you sense the "lock up" (resistance to the car moving forward) when the car is rolling under its own power?

No clear at all. You checked the shaft how? By jacking the car and turning the wheels, and watching the driveshaft turn? But then you indicate "wobble and only in drive".... is that a continuation of the check for a "wobble", or is there some punctuation missing, and this is starting a new thought?

blac94Z

jacked the car up spun the wheel until its resistance and while i had the shaft out i rolled it on a hard wood floor to check if i could see any signs of it being warped
to add. i put the car in drive got under the spun it by the drive shaft and i got the
resistance still could it be my rear end ot my trans ? or my driveshaft im just a little confused never been this confused before

Injuneer

If you encountered resistance when spinning the wheel by hand, it could have been the limited slip locking the two axles together. When you were spinning one wheel, was the wheel on the other side moving in the same direction? Did it start to move when you felt the resistance?

An out of balance or bent DS is not going to cause resistance when you spin the wheels. You've ruled out the u-joints (unless they installed the wrong size). Only thing left is the trans or the rear axle assembly.

Unbolt the DS at the pinion yoke, and slide DS forward out of the yoke. Then spin the wheels. If resistance, it's the rear (or brakes binding). If no resistance, probably the trans.

blac94Z

Ok will do
and i was thinking it may be
something with my limited slip
my dad told me to change the oil and add the addtive
to the rear end
and when i spun the rh pass wheel
it spun the other wheel the oppisite way

blac94Z

**Update ** so I jacked the back of the car up and put it on the stands and put the car in drive with it running and it clicks while it is moving but it is not as loud until I start to slow down it gets louder as speeds come down

I didn't get a chance to check the rear end posi but it is locking up until you get pass that certain point I'm still thinking its it the drive shaft but I know it could also be the rear end gears or limited slip

blac94Z

**another update**
so again i jacked up the car
chalked the front tires
and put it in drive
spun the rear pass. tire
it spun free with out the driver side
spinning and then after 2 or 3 whole turns of the wheel cought on
and made the other side spin the opp. way
now i spun the tire backward and it made a soft clunking noise nothing like driving
but it spun freely also and cought on after a couple of turns .
bow from the driverside i spun the tire and it did the clunking noise softly again but would catch
on after a few turns
and the whole time the drive shaft was not moving as i spun both wheels
now is this right or do i need to change the rear ?

and will a 2002 rear end work in my car ?

Injuneer

When the limited slip is not engaged, one wheel will turn forward, the other wheel will turn backward, and the driveshaft will not rotate. The fact that it takes several turns of one wheel before the other starts to move may indicate a bit of slop/backlash in the ring and pinion gears.

It usually takes a bit of torque to engage the limited slip clutches... it isn't likely to engage without power to the rear wheels.

blac94Z

ok so the problem is the rear end thanks alot fred for the help im gonna be checking it out finally today when i get off work have to catch the bus home hopefully its not dark again

blac94Z

so spinning the wheels is not a accurate way to know if it is the gears ?

Injuneer

Did you disconnect the driveshaft and try to rotate both wheels in the same direction at the same time? See earlier post.

Without standing next to the car, all I can do is suggest ways to try and sort through the possible sources of the noises. Without actually hearing them, it's hard to give you an absolute answer. Written words are very subjective and mean different things to different people.

blac94Z

yes i understand you on that and yes i did pull the driveshaft and it did do the same thing

what im gonna be doing in 1hr is pulling the back plate off and checking the gears and what no and post a pic on here of the rearend with the plate off ,
my dad told me to check the ring gear and posi so im gonna be doing that .
now to add before all this when i use to burn out my driver back wheel use to spin alot slower than the torq wheel does and it was so bad i that i was getting the one wheel peelie

Chimera96

OP

from the words you use and the last post about the DS wheel and leaving a "one wheel peele"....and the point in your 1st post of "I was romping" on the car...from this side of the internet it sounds like your limited slip is gone

Fred did walk you through some diagnostics to isolate this issue to your rear end

Take a pic once yo get the cover off...and wipe your hand on bottom inside the carier....do you get sludge/debris (worn clutch material)?

If you get a new LS, look into Eaton vs the Auburn unit. Also if you don't have the tooling and skill set to swap the diff...best let a "qualified" shop do it. I wrench on my own cars but leave gear/LS install to a driveline shop. Often these are 4x4 specialty shops