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I have a 94 Trans Am and having some difficulty with the T56. It's very hard to get into reverse, requiring multiple tries. When I'm in first going very slow (say up the curb to a driveway, if I have the shifter in first and the clutch is fully depressed you can still feel it 'grabbing.' Sometimes random other gears are hard to engage, but sometimes they slip in easy. Seems as if the clutch isn't fully releasing?

Would this be a transmission issue? Clutch issue? Slave issue? Don't even know where to start. Thanks!

Fatdog2

I had this problem with my saturn vue and had the cables replaced and everything is sweet.My money is your linkage may have issues.If your car has high mileage I would have the trans oil checked(changed) and if it is the linkage I would have the Hurst linkage put on as this would eliminate the 2nd to third gear miss shift.Saw this on previous posts a long time ago.Hope this helps.

Injuneer

Did you check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder? Sounds like it may be low, with air in the system.

No cables, no linkage on a T56. The clutch is hydraulically operated and the rail shifter is totally internal to the trans.

Chimera96

OP

as noted, check your hydraulic fluid. On a 20+ year old car the hydraulics, like any other part, can fail.

You can buy a complete sealed MC & Slave for around $125. You do not need to remove tranny to replace the hydraulics

What you describe is a hydraulic issue preventing the clutch to fully disengage

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Thanks for the replies guys. Any guides anyone could link to? I'm having trouble finding stuff as far back as 94. Guess the cars are getting old in the teeth now. Thanks!

Chimera96

"guides"??. You mean service manual?

Most auto part stores carry the Haynes or Chilton series specific to year(s) manufacturer and model type of car or you can buy "Factory Service Manual" from places like Amazon or ebay, often used copies but still good

if just the part, most auto part stores have them. They may need to order it but can get it. I bought one at rockauto.com several years ago.

Injuneer

Go here, for a free download of the 1994 factory service manual:

LINK: 4TH GEN SERVICE MANUALS; 82-02 PARTS DIAG; 99-02 WIRING DIAG - Fourth Generation Pontiac Firebird (1993 - 2002) - Firebird Nation

Injuneer

And of course shbox.com has a huge amount of info, pictures, how To's, etc.

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech Aids

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Well, I finally took it to a Chevy dealership. Just haven't had time to look at the car at all. They say it's a Syncro, how they came to that conclusion I'm not sure--the lady on the phone said they checked the tranny fluid level and that's about all?

I think I'll pay the 'diagnostics' fee of their bull**** and take it to a more reputable shop, unless someone has a link for replacing the clutch fluid? I couldn't really find one on shoeboxes site. Thanks!

Injuneer

There is no bleeder on the system, so you would have to pull the slave out of the bell housing, open the hydraulic line and drain it. Then refilling is difficult, due to absence of a bleeder. That's why the hydraulics are sold as a complete system, already filled with fluid and bled.

Are you feeling the fluid may be "worn out? Have you checked the level in the reservoir?

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Haven't checked the level in the reservoir, I assumed they would have but I could be wrong. What do you mean 'worn out?' Squishy pedal like? Doesn't really seem like it.

Chimera96

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unless your wallet is thick...you need to be able to do the most basic things like checking clutch hydraulic fluid yourself.

There is a white plastic small reservoir on the DS of your fire wall. Does it have fluid in it to the "full" line? is it black?

Likely black original fluid that needs to be changed or the entire hydraulics themselves. As noted by Fred they are sold as a sealed pre-bleed system. rockauto.com is likely the best $ to buy it.

If you have some mechanical skills you should be able to replace the hydraulics yourself

Bleeding these systems can be done but if these are the original MC & slave, just buy a new unit

While your syncros could be worn, especially 2nd gear, if you don't have complete clutch disengagement that is likely due to failing hydraulics

Jack up the rear of the car so rear wheels are off the ground. Start car & put in gear with clutch pushed all the way down. Do the rear wheels move?

If yes you have disengagement issues from failing hydraulics.

Injuneer

You indicate you want to replace the clutch hydraulic fluid. I was asking why. One reason would be the hygroscopic tendency of brake fluid, absorbing moisture and causing corrosion in the system, and reducing the boiling point of the fluid. I don't think the clutch application will have much of a problem with the boiling point.

Fatdog2

Might check out what I read.I did a search for( T56 won't go into reverse) and The LS1 Tech popped up and got some interesting reading .Also the posts right below it ----Swapped in T56 won't go into reverse--- posts.I didn't realize there were fuses,cables,and the such that can be hooked up backwards and such.(LS1tech.com...1523-t56-won't-go-into-reverse.html)Hope this helps.Good reading anyway.

Chimera96

Fatdog..

there are no fuses or cables to hook up for the T56

There is a solenoid for reverse lockout that is activated by the PCM and it is possible that solenoid can fail making it hard to get into reverse.

The Op's issues involve both forward and reverse shifting most likely caused by hydraulic issues of the MC & slave

not sure what you are reading regarding T56 problems but your interpretation of it is not right regarding cables and fuses