wondering what M6 stock lt1 cars run in the 1/4. . . . . .
#16
When I hear bolt-on's I think of engine bolt ons, you probably put like 5k into just the rearend of that car. Hardly a 'economical' bolt on car, which is what comes to mind when most people think of 'bolt on'. Amazing how much that word gets stretched...yes..those parts may be technically 'bolted' on but thats taking too much of the literal sense.
#17
I also have a hard time accepting a complete rear end as a "bolt on", despite the literal accuracy of the term. It's not like he's being misleading about it (i.e. not telling you what the "bolt ons" are that he's referring to).
Nonetheless, I think the total for his mods comes in a bit below five grand, including everything, and I have absolutely no trouble believing that such a car can run the times he's claiming.
Nonetheless, I think the total for his mods comes in a bit below five grand, including everything, and I have absolutely no trouble believing that such a car can run the times he's claiming.
#18
Bone stock, most LT1 cars are high 13s to low 14s at 98-100 mph... All I know is what I have seen for many seasons of racing.
When I added shorty headers to may car with no ther changes MPH improved by 2-3 in the quarter mile depending upon the weather.
I didn't track each change and quantify it much after the beginning because I was more interesting in going rounds, being consistent, and winning races than I was the bottom line on a time slip.
What I do know is that at 106-107 I was in the mid 12s and by 110 I was in the high 11s.
I never bothered with relocation brackets and this season I will replace the stock torque arm for reliability and safety. I even slowed the car down by going to a taller tire which made my launches more consistent and reaction times easier to control.
When I added shorty headers to may car with no ther changes MPH improved by 2-3 in the quarter mile depending upon the weather.
I didn't track each change and quantify it much after the beginning because I was more interesting in going rounds, being consistent, and winning races than I was the bottom line on a time slip.
What I do know is that at 106-107 I was in the mid 12s and by 110 I was in the high 11s.
I never bothered with relocation brackets and this season I will replace the stock torque arm for reliability and safety. I even slowed the car down by going to a taller tire which made my launches more consistent and reaction times easier to control.
#19
Dont hate due to the fact you didnt get a good motor from the factory. Some LT1's ran real strong from the factory, most ran like poop.
#20
12's aren't that common for 6 speed LT1's. 11's are even more rare. Hell, I only know of 2 or 3 11 second bolt-on cars.
Majority of the full bolt-on 6 speed Lt1's are somewhere in the low to mid 13's. Not saying it can't be done but it takes ALOT of time and effort to see those kinds of times.
FWIW, my car with a K&N filter in the stock ram air box, airfoil, and LCA's ran 14.2 @ 99 mph. Purchased an HPP and raised the rev limiter to 6200 rpm's and instantly ran a 13.8 @ 102. With the addition of 4.10's and relocation brackets and LOTS of practice I finally got it down to a 13.2 @ 107.
When it comes to modding the car I would get what power you have to the ground before I would add more.
Majority of the full bolt-on 6 speed Lt1's are somewhere in the low to mid 13's. Not saying it can't be done but it takes ALOT of time and effort to see those kinds of times.
FWIW, my car with a K&N filter in the stock ram air box, airfoil, and LCA's ran 14.2 @ 99 mph. Purchased an HPP and raised the rev limiter to 6200 rpm's and instantly ran a 13.8 @ 102. With the addition of 4.10's and relocation brackets and LOTS of practice I finally got it down to a 13.2 @ 107.
When it comes to modding the car I would get what power you have to the ground before I would add more.
#21
#23
#24
Keyword SOME, lets ba un-bias here guys, I know its hard because you own LT1's but open your eyes a bit. In all the time i've been to the track an LT1 w/ a CAI, and a catback or whatever is not running a low 13(no other mods). Thats a FACT.
#25
I have seen the same car with two different driver make runs that were different by over half a second.
I know one fellow with a Z06 running 12s, stock, and my buddy drove it for one pass and went quicker by three tenths...
In a stick the driver variable is absolutely huge. I have yet to see a situation where two cars from the factory, without defects or problems, ran significantly different times based purely on the vehicle in this modern age...
#26
Last edited by 3DFORMULA; 04-14-2009 at 07:25 PM.
#27
Why should the rearend be left out of the bolt-on idea. I mean afterall, the 10bolt is an inferior part that should have NEVER been put there in the first place. It is backwards thinking to me to add power to a car that cannot use all the power it has in the first place. And that is all that I have done to my car, just make the available power work for you.
#28
You can NOT compare negative DA Texas air to what the rest of the normal world is stuck with. 2 or 3 thousand feet of density altitude will make many tenths and mph difference at the track.
His car doesn't need Seafoam it needs to be run in Houston in the winter. But few can afford to make that haul just for a great timeslip.
His car doesn't need Seafoam it needs to be run in Houston in the winter. But few can afford to make that haul just for a great timeslip.
But anyways. 12's in a barely modded LT1 6-speed are so 10 years ago.
Jordon Musser and I both had 12 second bolt on LT1's, complete with the factory 3.42 rear end, and weighing 3560 lbs. Sorry you don't believe it.
But it can be done.
Now I'm continuing to make disbelievers w/ my 12.2 second "Cam only" SUV .
#30
I like how you posted a picture of your car to proove an irrelevant point...some kind of opportunity to show off.
Last edited by Jazsun; 04-14-2009 at 08:25 PM.