suggestions Setting up car to hook
#1
suggestions Setting up car to hook
I got a 95 camaro with a 355 m6, not sure whp yet but after my tune I should be around 420ish. its about 3400lbs. My suspention mods are, adjustable tunnel brace mounted torque arm with safty loop, adjustable panhard bar, lower control arms, lower control arm relocation brackets, qa1's all around with the stock springs in rear. The car has a strangs 12 bolt with 3.90 gears, I have line lock, and a 2step. I wana launch this thing wen I get my sticky tires and see if I can pick a wheel or 2 up. How should I set suspention up and how should I launch to make it possible
#2
Re: suggestions Setting up car to hook
Take what I write with a grain of salt, iam still learning as well!!
From what ive been told, your best to put your control arms into the LOWER holes on your relocation brackets, pinion angle at -2 or -2.5 (i think), rear shocks set on the stiff side for compression and fronts set soft on the extension if that makes any sense.
I have 4:11 gears and have tried my 2step from just over 3k to 4500. I havent got mine to dead hook yet, but ~3800 is the closest ive come. I think your launch RPM will depend on your tire choice (drag radials/slicks/etc) and size.
More experienced folk feel free to chime in, like I said, iam still learning also :-)
From what ive been told, your best to put your control arms into the LOWER holes on your relocation brackets, pinion angle at -2 or -2.5 (i think), rear shocks set on the stiff side for compression and fronts set soft on the extension if that makes any sense.
I have 4:11 gears and have tried my 2step from just over 3k to 4500. I havent got mine to dead hook yet, but ~3800 is the closest ive come. I think your launch RPM will depend on your tire choice (drag radials/slicks/etc) and size.
More experienced folk feel free to chime in, like I said, iam still learning also :-)
#3
Re: suggestions Setting up car to hook
Take what I write with a grain of salt, iam still learning as well!!
From what ive been told, your best to put your control arms into the LOWER holes on your relocation brackets, pinion angle at -2 or -2.5 (i think), rear shocks set on the stiff side for compression and fronts set soft on the extension if that makes any sense.
I have 4:11 gears and have tried my 2step from just over 3k to 4500. I havent got mine to dead hook yet, but ~3800 is the closest ive come. I think your launch RPM will depend on your tire choice (drag radials/slicks/etc) and size.
More experienced folk feel free to chime in, like I said, iam still learning also :-)
From what ive been told, your best to put your control arms into the LOWER holes on your relocation brackets, pinion angle at -2 or -2.5 (i think), rear shocks set on the stiff side for compression and fronts set soft on the extension if that makes any sense.
I have 4:11 gears and have tried my 2step from just over 3k to 4500. I havent got mine to dead hook yet, but ~3800 is the closest ive come. I think your launch RPM will depend on your tire choice (drag radials/slicks/etc) and size.
More experienced folk feel free to chime in, like I said, iam still learning also :-)
#4
Re: suggestions Setting up car to hook
The relocation brackets are really for lowered cars. Don't just put the lca in the bottom hole. With the car sitting on the ground the rear of the lca should be lower than the front of the lca. Lowering a car will put this situation incorrect(front lower than back). The relo. brackets help correct that. Get the pinion angle in the -2 area for sure. Start with more air pressure than you think is good. Ideally wanting to scuff the tires on the way out the hole. Bias ply tires for the manual trans.
My path:
I prefer to put 17lbs air in and do a smaller burnout, then launch at a high enough rpm(5500) to overcome the dead hook. I'll then work my why down a little in air pressure. You should be able to get a air pressure number to start with everytime. It is better to spin than break parts on the starting line.
My path:
I prefer to put 17lbs air in and do a smaller burnout, then launch at a high enough rpm(5500) to overcome the dead hook. I'll then work my why down a little in air pressure. You should be able to get a air pressure number to start with everytime. It is better to spin than break parts on the starting line.
#5
Re: suggestions Setting up car to hook
The relocation brackets are really for lowered cars. Don't just put the lca in the bottom hole. With the car sitting on the ground the rear of the lca should be lower than the front of the lca. Lowering a car will put this situation incorrect(front lower than back). The relo. brackets help correct that. Get the pinion angle in the -2 area for sure. Start with more air pressure than you think is good. Ideally wanting to scuff the tires on the way out the hole. Bias ply tires for the manual trans.
My path:
I prefer to put 17lbs air in and do a smaller burnout, then launch at a high enough rpm(5500) to overcome the dead hook. I'll then work my why down a little in air pressure. You should be able to get a air pressure number to start with everytime. It is better to spin than break parts on the starting line.
My path:
I prefer to put 17lbs air in and do a smaller burnout, then launch at a high enough rpm(5500) to overcome the dead hook. I'll then work my why down a little in air pressure. You should be able to get a air pressure number to start with everytime. It is better to spin than break parts on the starting line.
#6
Re: suggestions Setting up car to hook
#7
Re: suggestions Setting up car to hook
I had my mind set on the nitto 555 DR but what would you say is a good bias ply tire? Ill look into some befor I make my order
#8
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