evilbeef54

also i'm wondering what is the proper way to adjust the control arms, how will setting them in the lower or upper slot adjust the suspension/traction?

edit ***

ah, i definatly think these will help, the car is lowered and i just crawled back under the car and looked again and he definatly didnt use these brackets so the rear of the control arms do sit above the front, i dont think i can find em locally unfortunatly hopefully i can get em here asap for next weekend

jakesz28

The position of the LCA's affect the instant center. Which is what helps the four link cars launch better. Theres more to it but with the car being lowered you need them.

evilbeef54

yea, im definatly getting the brackets, im just trying to figure out whats the difference between the 2" drop and the 3" drop hole, looks like UMI has a whole ebay store which is cool, is there a reason you said you prefer the UMI over the edelbrock? Also im looking at the control arms and what would be the benifit of an adjustable arm over a non-adjustable?

also wanted to clarify on my burnouts, i should be doing just a quick one with the tires dry correct?

jakesz28

I always start in the water and after the smoke is going roll out with the tires spinning. As far as the edelbrock ones they make good intakes and such but I have heard bad things about their torque arms. UMI just does suspension stuff. You get my point not that either bracket is that much better but if one company has been specializing in on style of product they might have more proven peices out there. The lower you bolt the LCA the more antisquat you get. My rearend is set up with 5 adjustment positions for the LCA's and next year I will be in the lower hole and my car is not lowered. I also have 4 holes in the front for the torque arm which will adjust just how hard the car will hit the tires.

evilbeef54

huh, okay i'll try out the UMI ones, it looks like they have just 2 adjusting holes, im guessing you are on a 4 link setup? I'll pick 'em up and hopefully they'll help out, the M/T website said the the burnout on these ET street radials should be done dry but i guess its worth trying wet, i'll also try what you said on the launching, hopefully I will get this all narrowed down. Thanks for your help, now if i can just figure out the knocking i'll be set, lol but thats another thread (in the computer tuning section if anyone wants to look, haha)

Thanks

oh yea, what about the adjustable vs. non adjustable bars?

jakesz28

No I'm still stock suspended.


The rearend may not be perfectly centered in the wheelwell. The adjustable ones let you center the rearend if needed. If you ever decide to try a 28" tire you will have to get the adjustable ones to center the rearend.

3DFORMULA

Jake is covering it beautiful.

evilbeef54

ah ha, i see, what are you using that lets you have that much adjustment? and yes, yes he is helping a lot, thanks

evilbeef54

what do you think about these SFC's

I like the fact that these are 100% bolt in, i wouldn't have to mod anything, i can weld them in, but i think since they are bolt in it will be easier if i decide to pull the motor through the bottom later

http://www.umiperformance.com/2004?category_id=129

or these are 1/2 the price and weld in only

http://www.umiperformance.com/2000?category_id=129

http://www.umiperformance.com/2001?category_id=129

slowride94z

there's your problem LOWERED


try doing a good burn out ,once, then stage and launch off idle with the shifter in D

after getting the brackets, start in the lower hole

try upping the air pressure to 24#or 22#, some times when you let too much air out the center of the rubber doesn't have contact pressure, and you will be spinning two little streaks

good luck

evilbeef54

okay great thanks for the advice, how will i know if i need to move the bars up to the 1st hole as compared to the second (lowest) hole, I'll try bumping the psi back up and see what happens to the 60's and my launches. What do you think about the SFC's i posted? I'm gonna try picking up the brackets and the SFC's and hope they get here intime for next weekend

3DFORMULA

I have Strange adjustable front coil-over shocks, no sway bar up front, adjustable Midwest Chassis torque arm(very adjustable), adjustable lower control arms, relocation brackets for the lower control arms. That is my adjustability parts, I also have a 12 bolt rear so that I can use slicks and launch @ 5500rpm. I also have a spec 4 clutch which can take some of the abuse I give it. That how the 12's are possible with a stock motor.

evilbeef54

i pulled the M/T's off today and threw my street tires back on, i took some pics of the M/T's, it looks like the rubber was balling up more on the outsides of the tire and not so much in the middle, is this normal wear, or does it look too much or too little pressure, like i did too much of a burnout? to little? should have done it in the water box? or is this normal?

slowride94z

read this again

evilbeef54

ah, okay so looking at what you said again and looking at the tires that makes sense now, great thanks for your help