CALL911

Okay, so I made it to the track again with my 614 RWHP Z in my sig. I am running Mickey Thompson slicks mounted on salad shooter rims with about 16 psi in them. I am heating the Hell out of the tires, and traction off the line is decent, but in 2nd gear, and a little in 3rd the rear starts sliding out on me in the upper RPM's. A little bit I can handle, and will stay in the throttle, but what I am seeing, makes me too uncomfortable with it to stay in the gas. The slicks in general float around a little bit, and I am used to that, but I can't get used to the 2nd and third gear slide out.

Any advice here? Will heating the tires up further help? Perhaps with less pressure? Or is this just a standard thing I will have to adapt and overcome?

BTW, my best time was tonight with a 11.4 @ 128 with a 1.8 60" time. That particular run I was able to stay in the gas the hole way down, but didn't get a good launch.

The Engineer

With an all-out F-Body strip car, most people go to 15" rims for their slicks which adds much more side-wall w/ 28" to 30" diameter slicks. I believe you will have much better launches and control down the track w/ the more traditional slicks on 15" wheels. Basically, more side-wall equals better launches and more control.

I'm running 15" x 10" AlumiStar 2.0s with Goodyear 10.0" x 28" slicks and I have complete control w/ consistant 1.54 60ft times.

WD

rskrause

Try running more 12psi.

Rich

mdacton

Play around with it and make alot of passes. Seat time in the car will be the best thing.....try dropping the tires 1 psi at a time.....you want as much air in them as possible and still hook good

rje

I agree that 15in wheels and tires would be better, but make sure your suspension is optimized so the tires can do there job better. Look at guys cars who are launching hard and see what they have, that will give you a starting point then you can adjust things to what your car likes the best I don't have the power you do but I have a good working car and probably wouldn't need to many adjustments to hook your power level.

Randy

The Engineer

To get 60ft times like Randy (1.4s) and me (low 1.5s), you'll need the suspension set-up correctly. I have QA-1 90/10s up front, Spohn adjustable T/A, LCA relocation brackets, Air-bags and rear drag-springs.

WD

CALL911

Thanks for the input guys. Trust me when I say my suspension is dialed in right already. I can get complete traction on the street in 1st gear with cold Nitto DR's even with my power level!

Just at the track with the slicks, I seem to be floating around a bit. I'll try dropping the psi a pound at a time, and get more practice in. One of the runs I spent a few extra seconds heating the tires up, and I dropped it at about 4300 RPM and it bogged! Once the RPMS picked back up, and I shifted into 2nd, the rear started coming out on me at what felt like about 40 degrees so I got out of it and decided just to coast the rest of the run.

BTW, I have QA1 shocks and drag springs, BMR upper and lower A-Arms, BMR K-member, BMR Subframe connectors, Hotchkiss LCA's, Sphon adjustable Torque Arm, ect., ect., ect.,.

spraytheway

loosen the front shocks for extension and tighten up the compression. At the same time stiffen the rear shock. Get the car to hold the weight transfer. Right now the car is unloading the tires. Also buy a 12 inch rim and solve all the rim issues. If you want 15 X 10's I have a set for you?

CALL911

lol, no thanks. I just purchased the slicks with the salad shooters, and thats what I'll be staying with. I'll also be leaving my suspension at its current settings as like I said before, it is dialed in for the street which is the main usage of the car (it is a street car more than anything).

I just need to figure out how to best run the car with its current setup as it is. Again, I'll try less tire pressure next time around. Mostly I think I just need more practice driving it as mentioned by someone earlier.

I might even try running on the DR's just to see how those do since I know they won't float around like the slicks do (although theoreically, they should spin more).

mdacton

its easy to loosen the struts up......

So don't expect 100% from it if you want to leave it all set up as it is.

a 28" tire would hook better too.......I think your main problem is going to be driving it. Without a 100% set-up for the track it will be harder to drive, so make a lot of passes.....1/8 mile would work fine if you get your driving down to an art it should do pretty good.

But with the right susp. set up you could just drop it and ride!

CALL911

I know it could be setup differently, and therefore better. But thats not what I am looking to do. I am trying to run the best I can with the setup I currently have (and the suspension where it is).

I do appreciate the inputs and the info. Any suggestions that doesn't include me changing my suspension settings or buying another set of rims and tires?

mdacton

some of the BIG BIG h.p. street cars pull timing out the first 50-100 ft. so the caqr is moving before it shocks the tires....

Saw one a few weeks ago turbo car cut a 1.62 60" and went through the top end at 202m.p.h.

So maybe a timing retard or something like that

tapout911

With that much tire pressure you could be riding the middle of the tire as they grow. Lower the pressure a bit. I like 10-12 depending on the track.

CALL911

Well see the next time around how lower tire pressure does. With dropped tire pressure do you guys think it will stop floating and sliding so much?

Also, I have in car video of a couple of my runs so you guys can see exactly what I am talking about. I'll try to get the video posted up in the next couple of days.

TedH

What size are the slicks? Basically the goal is generally to have the footprint width equal the rim width. I have 15" x 10" rims and a 10" foot print. On the Mickey thompson website there is a range of rim widths for their tire sizes. I suspect you maybe mismatched. Forget ET and MPH and focus on the sixty foot time. You should be sub 1.5 easily with that hp in a normal environment. I think if you get the sixty foot ironed out the other shift points will likely fall into line as well.

You will not know about the rest of the suspension until you hook up. One problem at a time.