10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
#1
10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
I always thought slicks on a 10-bolt was a bad idea because of how 'weak' we all know they are. I heard someone saying today that slicks are better on a 10-bolt because they have more sidewall give (think, crinkle), and that will absorb some of the shock instead of sending it all into the rear end.
Sorry if this has been discussed. Never heard of that angle before. I'm pretty skeptical.
Sorry if this has been discussed. Never heard of that angle before. I'm pretty skeptical.
#3
Registered User
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
yeah when i think of it.. slicks are made for traction so you can't burnout as easy, so instead of them spinning, it's just taking that force right to your 10 bolt.
if the wheels were easier to spin out, less of a load is on your 10 bolt.
my simple way of thought
if the wheels were easier to spin out, less of a load is on your 10 bolt.
my simple way of thought
#4
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
Let's put it this way. I blew up my stock 10 bolt on a 2002 WS6 with just a few bolt-ons and a 3200 stall with ET streets.
Bought a Moser for it after that.
Bought a Moser for it after that.
#5
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
After the burnout, the launch, that is what is going to get you. The snap will take out the 10 bolt real quick. Add a little VHT and boom goes the rear end!
#6
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
It's the shock that hurts the 10 bolt, which is why they don't get along with manual trans cars. The soft sidewall will soften the shock to the rear. But with good power it may not matter. You've got a big mod list in that sig... with no mention of the trans? No mention of what gear you're running? If you've got a 6 speed car with a 4.10 gearset and you dump the clutch at 5000+, it will probably break.
#7
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
It's the shock that hurts the 10 bolt, which is why they don't get along with manual trans cars. The soft sidewall will soften the shock to the rear. But with good power it may not matter. You've got a big mod list in that sig... with no mention of the trans? No mention of what gear you're running? If you've got a 6 speed car with a 4.10 gearset and you dump the clutch at 5000+, it will probably break.
To the OP. 10 bolt with slicks = tow truck ride home. The 10 bolt is utter crap.
#8
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
I'm going to move this to the drag racing forum later, but will keep it here for awhile so other folks may read my "opinion" based on actual experience...
My car began as a stick and over the course of the last 12-13 years has had over 4,000 passes and 150,000 miles.
The stock rear is weak, regardless of the "fearless few" who have launched to 10 second times at the track on it.
My experience is that every 300-400 passes the stock rear will give out, even with good quality gears, goof qualtity differential, and a cover.
I say this because I my stock rear blew and I was using drag radials at the time after roughly 400 passes.
I then rebuilt it with 3.73s and an Auburn Pro diff. I also switched to ET Streets at this time, and 400 passes later it blew again.
I switched to a 700R4 with 3600 converter and rebuilt it one more time. When I started to get "that feeling" after 300-350 passes I ordered a stroker bottom end and also a Moser 12 bolt.
When the old rear was pulled out it was evident it would have blown in the near future.
So basically the stock rear was good for about 400 passes regardless of ET Streets or drag radials, and auto or stick did not truly matter.
It is the shock that breaks the rear on our cars. In my opinion, a wrinklewall tire, with all else being absolutely equal, will provide a softer launch than a drag radial. Burnouts utilize the water box. Driving and launch style will have some bearing on the life of the rear, however if you want to actually race and have fun I highly recommend installing a rear that is appropriate for that purpose.
Most people can take their car to the track a few times and have fun without a whole lot of worry. If you really get hooked like I did and start racking up passes, make the investment before the rear grenades.
Just my opinion...
My car began as a stick and over the course of the last 12-13 years has had over 4,000 passes and 150,000 miles.
The stock rear is weak, regardless of the "fearless few" who have launched to 10 second times at the track on it.
My experience is that every 300-400 passes the stock rear will give out, even with good quality gears, goof qualtity differential, and a cover.
I say this because I my stock rear blew and I was using drag radials at the time after roughly 400 passes.
I then rebuilt it with 3.73s and an Auburn Pro diff. I also switched to ET Streets at this time, and 400 passes later it blew again.
I switched to a 700R4 with 3600 converter and rebuilt it one more time. When I started to get "that feeling" after 300-350 passes I ordered a stroker bottom end and also a Moser 12 bolt.
When the old rear was pulled out it was evident it would have blown in the near future.
So basically the stock rear was good for about 400 passes regardless of ET Streets or drag radials, and auto or stick did not truly matter.
It is the shock that breaks the rear on our cars. In my opinion, a wrinklewall tire, with all else being absolutely equal, will provide a softer launch than a drag radial. Burnouts utilize the water box. Driving and launch style will have some bearing on the life of the rear, however if you want to actually race and have fun I highly recommend installing a rear that is appropriate for that purpose.
Most people can take their car to the track a few times and have fun without a whole lot of worry. If you really get hooked like I did and start racking up passes, make the investment before the rear grenades.
Just my opinion...
Last edited by TedH; 06-15-2011 at 07:37 AM.
#9
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
I have blown up 3 10 bolts so far. ET Steets, All done on the street. I do beat the hell out of my car tho.
For me it has been cheaper to buy a used 10 bolt then go with something else
For me it has been cheaper to buy a used 10 bolt then go with something else
#11
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
You've got the stock 3.42 gearset which will help with the durability. The 4.10s 6 speed guys are so fond of are much less forgiving. You could always put a rear support cover on (LPW is best) and weld the axle tubes for a little more insurance, but I wouldn't spend money on a carrier, gearset and axle shafts.
FWIW - I've got 2 different cars with 10 bolts and never had any issues. One of which has seen numerous 1.4x 60' times with the front wheels a foot in the air. Both my cars are autos and use drag radials exclusively.
FWIW - I've got 2 different cars with 10 bolts and never had any issues. One of which has seen numerous 1.4x 60' times with the front wheels a foot in the air. Both my cars are autos and use drag radials exclusively.
#12
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
I rocked 10 bolts in my 98' for years. I ran low 11's and went to the track about once a week. I generally went through one about every year. I kept replacing them with used stockers because i could usually find them for less than 200 bucks. Some quick math will tell you that it would have taken me 10 years worth of 10 bolts to pay for a 12 bolt or 9". By the end of that same 10 years, the 12 bolt or 9" would have needed to be rebuilt anyway, which would have cost another 600-800 bucks, or another 3-4 years worth of 10 bolts. Not worth it IMO.
Now, had I been making more power and running mid 10's or better I probably wouldn't have had the same luck making the 10 bolt last and therefore would have gone for a high dollar 12 bolt or 9"
EDIT- forgot to add, I switched back and forth between 255/50/16 MT DR's and 26x10.5 ET Drags. I never noticed a major difference in longevity with either tire
Now, had I been making more power and running mid 10's or better I probably wouldn't have had the same luck making the 10 bolt last and therefore would have gone for a high dollar 12 bolt or 9"
EDIT- forgot to add, I switched back and forth between 255/50/16 MT DR's and 26x10.5 ET Drags. I never noticed a major difference in longevity with either tire
#13
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
I just wanted to pull this out of your relatively long post to emphasize it for those whose eyes may have glazed over before getting that far. I think this is what the person referenced in the first post was trying to say.
#14
Re: 10-bolt and slicks. Does this make sense?
You've got the stock 3.42 gearset which will help with the durability. The 4.10s 6 speed guys are so fond of are much less forgiving. You could always put a rear support cover on (LPW is best) and weld the axle tubes for a little more insurance, but I wouldn't spend money on a carrier, gearset and axle shafts.
FWIW - I've got 2 different cars with 10 bolts and never had any issues. One of which has seen numerous 1.4x 60' times with the front wheels a foot in the air. Both my cars are autos and use drag radials exclusively.
FWIW - I've got 2 different cars with 10 bolts and never had any issues. One of which has seen numerous 1.4x 60' times with the front wheels a foot in the air. Both my cars are autos and use drag radials exclusively.
I'm planning on an upgrade to a MWC 9", but it won't happen this year. I'm saving for a RPM LVL5 A4 right now. I'd like to keep my 10bolt around at least until next spring.
Right now I've got a full rear suspension (MWC LCA/Brackets/Short TA), ARP studs, and 17" Street Lites with Toyo 315 drag radials. 3.73 Motive Gears installed.
Converter is a PT4000 and it will be spraying a 100shot. I figure I'll try to save the rear by putting a 2 sec delay on the nitrous. (I might not be able to hook up with it on anyway).
Think with the addition of a cover it might last a little while?
#15