BMAN'S SCZ

Hey guys haven't posted since 2010 and decided to come back to ask a few questions. I started playing with my car again and recently did the intake because of an oil leak in the rear. Long story short after a few years I started the car up this weekend and checked some reading from my scanmaster. Car seemed to idle fine 825-850(M6) warmed up, coolant at 182 and tps .50 and IAC 67/68. Pulling 14 hg on vacuum. MAP 13.4-13.9, MAF 08/09. Again car seemed good but doing some internet searching it seemed my IAC values were high. I have a ASM 52mm ported TB with airfoil and custom cam(224-236, 115)?. Don't remember the specs but some info is in my SIG. Not sure what's in it because it has been so long. It does have a mail order tune from years ago and ran decent, also passed emissions. Wideband says 14.7/8 at idle. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance....

GaryDoug

I don't think there is anything wrong with an IAC value of 68 while idling. I have seen many scan logs with approximately that reading. The range is 0 to 160 so you are about in the middle.

Injuneer

My scanner writeup suggests a range of 20-40 counts at idle. But that's for a stock(ish), normally aspirated engine. Once you get into a forced induction, heads/cam, custom tune, etc., I don't think there is a "normal" count. Use Scan9495 to log the PCM under a wide variety of operating conditions. Look for any situation that is causing the counts to max out at 160. Even that may not be a problem.

You could always open up the throttle blades a bit to bring the counts down. There is no requirement for maintaining a 0.50 volt TPS value. Typical stock/unmolested value is 0.67 volts, and you could go to 0.80 volts and still have a cushion below the value that sets a TPS code. When you turn the key to run, the PCM reads the TPS volts, and baselines the value as 0% throttle position. Keep the value between 0.30 - 0.80 volts to avoid problems.

BMAN'S SCZ

Awesome, thanks guys for the info. Glad I don't have to worry about the value. I will try to open the blades a hair to see if it changes anything else. Being out of the loop for a bit, this scan software you speak of. Is it newer software that is windows 10 compatible? The last time I hooked up to my car I think it was windows 97. Same goes for the Lt1 edit and aldl cable. I don't even think that cable has a port on the latest laptop. If you guys can point me in the right direction for an adapter or new USB/aldl cable I would greatly appreciate it also. Thanks again guys, it's nice to see the same trustworthy people are still on the site some 10+ years later! 👍🏻

Injuneer

https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...95-lt1-874306/

Excellent program, written by GaryDoug (see post #2, above). Verified with Windows 10. He can answer any questions regarding cable, adapter, etc.. I help people with interpreting the Scan9495 logs, but I have never actually used it because I ditched the stock PCM 17 years ago.

BMAN'S SCZ

Awesome, let me do some reading and I'll post back if I have any questions. Thanks again...

BMAN'S SCZ

Well I just checked the LT1 Edit website and got a red screen warning me of a virus or something. Is Carputing still in business? I wanted to see if their LT1 edit software is Windows 10 compatible. Do any of you guys know if it is? Wanted to hook it up to my car and see what codes I disabled and to also look around as its been awhile. Please let me know when you have a chance. Thanks

GaryDoug

You can use TunerPro to check the editing of your pcm but you would need a utility like WinFlash to read it. You can use TunerPro for free indefinitely (with a nag screen) and WinFlash will give you a trial period before needing to pay $20 to own it.

Another free PC program for editing is EEHack, and no other utility app is required.

These are all Win 10 compatible in their current versions.

BMAN'S SCZ

Awesome, I'll check them out. But to my original LT1 Edit question. I already own the software and was just wondering if the company is still in business because their website was funky. Thanks!

GaryDoug

Sorry I can't help with the LT1edit app. To answer your question about a newer cable, you can get a USB-ALDL cable here: OBD Diagnostics

There are cheaper ways to go for under $20, but they are a bit of a pain. Let me know if you are into that and want the info ;-)

Injuneer

I just went to the carputing website, Norton detected no problem. I had been there a week or two ago, ditto. They are still in business to the extent that they "continue to support our existing customers". No longer selling products.