Dtc 25
05-22-2015, 02:10 PM
#16
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Location: Inland Empire, CA
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Re: Dtc 25
Not much time free, but.....
Looking at the files Gary translated, at idle, the left O2 sensor is stuck at 1.092 volts. Right BLM is maxed out at 160. Can't understand why there is no code. IAT sensor show 304*F.... obviously shorted.
You have to run the engine for at least 206 seconds to have a chance for PCM to go into closed loop.
Didn't get a chance to look at any other files yet.
GARY: Your format is so much better.
Looking at the files Gary translated, at idle, the left O2 sensor is stuck at 1.092 volts. Right BLM is maxed out at 160. Can't understand why there is no code. IAT sensor show 304*F.... obviously shorted.
You have to run the engine for at least 206 seconds to have a chance for PCM to go into closed loop.
Didn't get a chance to look at any other files yet.
GARY: Your format is so much better.
I changed the spark plug wires on the car, since I discovered that three of the wires on the right side were torn around the boot.
I will test drive it today n update you guys on Monday...!
Thank you guys for all the help, enjoy your memorial weekend...!
06-01-2015, 12:26 AM
#17
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Inland Empire, CA
Posts: 52
Re: Dtc 25
Not much time free, but.....
Looking at the files Gary translated, at idle, the left O2 sensor is stuck at 1.092 volts. Right BLM is maxed out at 160. Can't understand why there is no code. IAT sensor show 304*F.... obviously shorted.
You have to run the engine for at least 206 seconds to have a chance for PCM to go into closed loop.
Didn't get a chance to look at any other files yet.
GARY: Your format is so much better.
Looking at the files Gary translated, at idle, the left O2 sensor is stuck at 1.092 volts. Right BLM is maxed out at 160. Can't understand why there is no code. IAT sensor show 304*F.... obviously shorted.
You have to run the engine for at least 206 seconds to have a chance for PCM to go into closed loop.
Didn't get a chance to look at any other files yet.
GARY: Your format is so much better.
I've attached one last data log, so you guys can possibly tell me if anything else looks iffy....
Thanks in advance for all the replies fred/gary...!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vzfbasd9hv...36941.csv?dl=0
06-01-2015, 09:08 AM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Inland Empire, CA
Posts: 52
Re: Dtc 25
Since you mention the left O2 sensor was stuck, I decided to change it, an boy it's like night and day..!!! the car drove way better, so i decided to change the other sensor as well.....it it's definitely driving way better.... its been a while since I've done a burn out... and the car really takes off....
I've attached one last data log, so you guys can possibly tell me if anything else looks iffy....
Thanks in advance for all the replies fred/gary...!
Bump!!!!!!!!'
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vzfbasd9hv...36941.csv?dl=0
I've attached one last data log, so you guys can possibly tell me if anything else looks iffy....
Thanks in advance for all the replies fred/gary...!
Bump!!!!!!!!'
https://www.dropbox.com/s/vzfbasd9hv...36941.csv?dl=0
Bump
Bump
06-01-2015, 02:26 PM
#21
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,646
Re: Dtc 25
As far as the "knock count", read this:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...9/#post6977197
That said, a quick look at the file indicates major problems with knock retard, and excessively high fuel corrections to keep the engine from running lean. The long term fuel corrections are maxed out in several cells, particularly on the right (passenger) side of the engine. Before running the next data log, clear the long term fuel corrections by pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse in the under hood box for 30 seconds. Then drive is for a decent period of time, under varying RPM/throttle combinations, to reconstruct the long term corrections. Then run the data log. It possible some of them are screwed up from the previous faulty O2 sensors, but not likely, since the 1+ volt reading on the left side would have caused the corrections to drop below 128. Yours are up at 160 (adding 25% more fuel then the PCM would add using a "normal" calculation). Can't go any higher than that, so the short term corrections are trying to add even more fuel.
Have you checked the fuel pressure recently? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Is it possible your headers have major leaks BEFORE the O2 sensors? Did you install the Y-pipe?
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...9/#post6977197
That said, a quick look at the file indicates major problems with knock retard, and excessively high fuel corrections to keep the engine from running lean. The long term fuel corrections are maxed out in several cells, particularly on the right (passenger) side of the engine. Before running the next data log, clear the long term fuel corrections by pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse in the under hood box for 30 seconds. Then drive is for a decent period of time, under varying RPM/throttle combinations, to reconstruct the long term corrections. Then run the data log. It possible some of them are screwed up from the previous faulty O2 sensors, but not likely, since the 1+ volt reading on the left side would have caused the corrections to drop below 128. Yours are up at 160 (adding 25% more fuel then the PCM would add using a "normal" calculation). Can't go any higher than that, so the short term corrections are trying to add even more fuel.
Have you checked the fuel pressure recently? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Is it possible your headers have major leaks BEFORE the O2 sensors? Did you install the Y-pipe?
06-02-2015, 04:01 PM
#22
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Inland Empire, CA
Posts: 52
Re: Dtc 25
As far as the "knock count", read this:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...9/#post6977197
That said, a quick look at the file indicates major problems with knock retard, and excessively high fuel corrections to keep the engine from running lean. The long term fuel corrections are maxed out in several cells, particularly on the right (passenger) side of the engine. Before running the next data log, clear the long term fuel corrections by pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse in the under hood box for 30 seconds. Then drive is for a decent period of time, under varying RPM/throttle combinations, to reconstruct the long term corrections. Then run the data log. It possible some of them are screwed up from the previous faulty O2 sensors, but not likely, since the 1+ volt reading on the left side would have caused the corrections to drop below 128. Yours are up at 160 (adding 25% more fuel then the PCM would add using a "normal" calculation). Can't go any higher than that, so the short term corrections are trying to add even more fuel.
Have you checked the fuel pressure recently? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Is it possible your headers have major leaks BEFORE the O2 sensors? Did you install the Y-pipe?
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...9/#post6977197
That said, a quick look at the file indicates major problems with knock retard, and excessively high fuel corrections to keep the engine from running lean. The long term fuel corrections are maxed out in several cells, particularly on the right (passenger) side of the engine. Before running the next data log, clear the long term fuel corrections by pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse in the under hood box for 30 seconds. Then drive is for a decent period of time, under varying RPM/throttle combinations, to reconstruct the long term corrections. Then run the data log. It possible some of them are screwed up from the previous faulty O2 sensors, but not likely, since the 1+ volt reading on the left side would have caused the corrections to drop below 128. Yours are up at 160 (adding 25% more fuel then the PCM would add using a "normal" calculation). Can't go any higher than that, so the short term corrections are trying to add even more fuel.
Have you checked the fuel pressure recently? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Is it possible your headers have major leaks BEFORE the O2 sensors? Did you install the Y-pipe?
Ok, so I can't seem to catch a break...!
I took my car yesterday to have the y-pipe connected to the exhaust, They connected the ory pipe to the exhaust and as I'm driving away, car stalls and won't start back on....I noticed the fuel pump was not priming... and I can usually hear it prime, crank for several seconds, but it would not start... put some starting fluid and it fire right up, but stalled several sec later... I tried shoebox's procedure to test the pump, hot wire the ALDL probe supplying 12V and nothing, got under the car and tried supplying 12V to the fuel pump harness pump and nothing....
my buddy suggested to just kick the hell out of the gas tank... so I did and I'll be damn car started right up... drove my behind home, turned off the car, and couldn't get it to start again... checked fuel pressure "zero". Fuel pump not priming... checked connectors, changed fuel relay by the kick panel just for the hell of it... and nothing... so I'm just changing the fuel pump... car has 200k with the same fuel pump... so maybe this will fix my problems....
06-02-2015, 05:06 PM
#24
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,646
Re: Dtc 25
Thanks,
Actually might have nailed 2 items... I think he was running it with no Y-pipe, open headers. Creates a large "false lean" problem at low engine loads, when the backwash of air hits the O2 sensors in the collectors. Hence "Did you install the Y-pipe?".
Actually might have nailed 2 items... I think he was running it with no Y-pipe, open headers. Creates a large "false lean" problem at low engine loads, when the backwash of air hits the O2 sensors in the collectors. Hence "Did you install the Y-pipe?".
06-03-2015, 08:16 AM
#25
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Inland Empire, CA
Posts: 52
Re: Dtc 25
Yeah, Injuneer has been on top of it since the beginning, I knew my fuel pressure was low as mention in earlier post, and it was just a matter of time before the pump went out.... I'm going with the spectra FP and sending unit (cost effective). I'm having a mechanic do the swap only because I don't feel comfortable working with the gas tank.... I do want to ask him to cut out an access "trap door" to the fuel tank ... any body know the dimensions, somewhat???
06-04-2015, 08:07 AM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Inland Empire, CA
Posts: 52
Re: Dtc 25
As far as the "knock count", read this:
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...9/#post6977197
That said, a quick look at the file indicates major problems with knock retard, and excessively high fuel corrections to keep the engine from running lean. The long term fuel corrections are maxed out in several cells, particularly on the right (passenger) side of the engine. Before running the next data log, clear the long term fuel corrections by pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse in the under hood box for 30 seconds. Then drive is for a decent period of time, under varying RPM/throttle combinations, to reconstruct the long term corrections. Then run the data log. It possible some of them are screwed up from the previous faulty O2 sensors, but not likely, since the 1+ volt reading on the left side would have caused the corrections to drop below 128. Yours are up at 160 (adding 25% more fuel then the PCM would add using a "normal" calculation). Can't go any higher than that, so the short term corrections are trying to add even more fuel.
Have you checked the fuel pressure recently? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Is it possible your headers have major leaks BEFORE the O2 sensors? Did you install the Y-pipe?
https://www.camaroz28.com/forums/com...9/#post6977197
That said, a quick look at the file indicates major problems with knock retard, and excessively high fuel corrections to keep the engine from running lean. The long term fuel corrections are maxed out in several cells, particularly on the right (passenger) side of the engine. Before running the next data log, clear the long term fuel corrections by pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse in the under hood box for 30 seconds. Then drive is for a decent period of time, under varying RPM/throttle combinations, to reconstruct the long term corrections. Then run the data log. It possible some of them are screwed up from the previous faulty O2 sensors, but not likely, since the 1+ volt reading on the left side would have caused the corrections to drop below 128. Yours are up at 160 (adding 25% more fuel then the PCM would add using a "normal" calculation). Can't go any higher than that, so the short term corrections are trying to add even more fuel.
Have you checked the fuel pressure recently? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Is it possible your headers have major leaks BEFORE the O2 sensors? Did you install the Y-pipe?
I've read about pulling the "PCM BAT" fuse... hate to admit it, but I'm not sure where that's at. I've checked on the driver's side fuse box, and under the hood driver side fuse box and can't find it. Anywhere else I could be checking, or am I missing something??:?
07-22-2015, 05:35 PM
#28
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Inland Empire, CA
Posts: 52
Re: Dtc 25
I just wanted to drop by and update you guys on what's going on with the car. The car is now running great! and I haven't had any problems with it. Looking back at when I did the header install, I can see now where a lot of things went wrong and complicated my header install.
During my header install, I spilled anti-freeze all over the opti and that severely damaged the opti. Which is why after I had all the headers installed, I could not start it.
My second issue was that I couldn't get one of the O2 sensors out, so I had to use a lot of WD-40 and other lubes to loosen up the sensor. This most likely ruined my O2 sensor. So when I got my new opti spark and install it. The car started by drove like crap!!!
Once some of the guys here helped me diagnosed the issue aka Injuneer & Gary, the car ran great, however my fuel pump die days later. I fixed the fuel pump and the car now runs great.
So having said that, many thanks to every one who provided me with advice, you guys save me a lot of money and special thanks to Injeneer and Gary..!
This is a great site for all DIY guys!!!
During my header install, I spilled anti-freeze all over the opti and that severely damaged the opti. Which is why after I had all the headers installed, I could not start it.
My second issue was that I couldn't get one of the O2 sensors out, so I had to use a lot of WD-40 and other lubes to loosen up the sensor. This most likely ruined my O2 sensor. So when I got my new opti spark and install it. The car started by drove like crap!!!
Once some of the guys here helped me diagnosed the issue aka Injuneer & Gary, the car ran great, however my fuel pump die days later. I fixed the fuel pump and the car now runs great.
So having said that, many thanks to every one who provided me with advice, you guys save me a lot of money and special thanks to Injeneer and Gary..!
This is a great site for all DIY guys!!!
07-23-2015, 11:55 AM
#29
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Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: Hell was full so they sent me to NJ
Posts: 70,646
Re: Dtc 25
My second issue was that I couldn't get one of the O2 sensors out, so I had to use a lot of WD-40 and other lubes to loosen up the sensor. This most likely ruined my O2 sensor. So when I got my new opti spark and install it. The car started by drove like crap!!!
The experience with the O2 sensor is an important lesson. The sensor relies on air entering the wire port to generate the voltage across the sensing element... O2 content of air compared to O2 content of exhaust. My wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee started acting up, connected a scanner and saw an strange O2 sensor reading, and traced the problem to PS fluid that was dripping down the O2 sensor harness, and had finally reached the O2 sensor, coated the outside, and cut off the air supply.
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