rv93

several weeks ago, i purchased a set of 'switchback' LED bulbs for my front turn signals (already had a clear housing). for those unfamiliar with these, they plug in just like the stock dual filament bulb, and have around 30 LEDs, half of which light up white, and half of which light up orange. When the parking or head lights are turned on, one of the filaments would be lit, the white LEDs light up, and when you turn, those turn off, and the orange LEDs flash. its a pretty neat effect. Well, today, my orange LEDs started staying on whenever i had my parking lights on, and would switch back to the normal white when i turned on the actual headlights. The problem doesnt seem to be with the LED units themselves, but it seems as though the car decided to light the turn signal filament as a running light when my headlights are off. That has never happened before. Anybody have any ideas of what could be causing this, and perhaps a solution? Thank you very much.

rv93

bump. somebody please shoot me some ideas. this is bugging me >_<

Chevyssoccer

The trans am front turn signal socket commonly corode causing one or both filaments to stop working or stay on. I havent seen it with the camaros though.

rv93

I dont think its the socket. I put the bulbs in a few weeks ago, and they looked almost like new. I used bulb grease too. Only thing is the bulbs didnt go in easy. I was actually afraid they were going to break. So its possible that the sockets got damaged in the process. But they both started doing this at once, and it was weeks after the installation.

Nihi555

I had a similar problem with turn signals in my Camaro. It turned out to be a loose ground in the trunk of my car, just below the trunk latch.

rv93

that will definitely be checked first thing tomorrow. thanks for the info

calaban

Check the actual flasher. There are two, well there was on mine, one for the signals and one for the flashers. Try the flashers. If the flashers blink normally, it points to the signal flasher. They are pretty cheap.

rv93

i actually replaced those when i got the bulbs. thermal flashers and LED turn signals dont mix well, lol. when i actually signal one way or another, it works perfectly. the orange LEDs blink at the normal rate, then when i turn it off, the white LEDs light briefly, then turn off, and are replaced by the orange ones.

eanhl2004

Did you check to make sure that your turn signals worked correctly after switching them or did you just ASSUME that they did? IF you assumed then here is your likely answer,
I'm not 100% sure (but I believe I am) that you need a new flasher relay for LED's or you can put inline resistor's.. I've been reading a lot online and am about to order parts..

You have LED SWITCHBACKS and your problem is that the LED's use like 3volts and regular lights use 12v thus the signals aren't the same and you need a new relay to make the LED understand what info it's receiving.

You should be able to swap out your flasher under the dash panel on the right side of the drivers side...remove 4 screws to bottom of the dash to get to it.
If your problem is the turn signals 'freeze' or 'stay on' when they should be blinking then you most likely need a flasher for LED's!



I am unsure of which replacement flasher is correct, I would try to confirm what a stock looks like first!

http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm <---EL12 located in drop down menus
http://ledvault.armorysound.com/help.html
http://ledvault.armorysound.com/faqs.html

Pretty sure I am right with my info, but I haven't done this mod yet so I can't say for sure!

If you search LED Switchback and flasher relay you should find all kinds of info!

BTW what exact LED's did you get? Can you post a pic of them installed with the lights off... I'm curious what they look like in clears!

rv93

youre on the right track. the LED bulbs draw 12V like everything else, but less power. so watts and amps. i think the stock turn signal bulbs are around 20W, while the LED replacements are maybe 2W. The stock flashers are thermal. They rely on the current flowing through to turn on and off. so LED bulbs on stock flashers will just stay lit instead of flashing. What you need (and i got) is an electronic flasher. Still relies on the flow of current, but it needs much less. I tested mine with a single 5mm LED, and it worked fine. Also, my problem isnt that they wont flash. Its that the wrong LEDs stay lit when my parking lights are on, and the handbrake is disengaged (thats a new discovery). Anyway, thanks for taking the time to do the research. The battery is out of the car right now (trying to fix the HID projector headlights i bought), but ill post some pics of the Switchbacks when i get the battery back in. Theyre a bit pricey (i think i paid $35 shipped for the set), but well worth it in my opinion.

eanhl2004

Is it possible to install the lights in reverse. I know it's not likely but just a thought?

Once again though, did they ever work correctly? I don't see why they would be reversed unless they are installed in reverse!

BTW I was looking for pics of the LED without power to it I know that some LED's have a slight yellow color to them.. just wondering how much color 'bleeds through' the clear corners... I installed my clear corners couple days ago and found two sockets burned and need to replace them... so I figured I'd do LED's more so now because it could be heat build up or corrosion.. maybe both..maybe an old short that got fixed? but those sockets are so bad I am surprised they work... lol

Was reading of some problems with ohm resistance..6ohms for front only led's and 3 ohms if front and back led's... I don't think it has anything to do with your problem...but thought I'd mention it... I would try installing the led bulbs backwards if possible and if not I'd call the place you ordered them from...maybe they are defective led's... I'm assuming both sides do the same? you can't install the flash relay backwards can you?...hmmm maybe the relay is defective? sounds like you do have a 'WEIRD' issue going on!

ADD:
http://autolumination.com/3157_led_s...eshooting.html

you CAN install the light backwards... rotate the bulb 180 degrees... odd... I would try rotating each one and or maybe both many times and testing in between to see if this is your problem!

rv93

installing these particular bulbs backwards makes them not light up at all. they worked perfectly for say 2 weeks or so. and im 99.9% sure its the car, not the LEDs, because its just too consistent. if my ebrake is engaged, they work right. if my headlights are on, they work right. if my engine is off, they work right. they only light up wrong when the engine is on, ebrake is disengaged, and i have my headlight switch set to parking lights. i have a feeling it may have something to do with the DRL system, but i still dont get why it changed

eanhl2004

I'm going to agree with you... I'd look into the parking brake & DRL and how that relates to the other lights. If your parking brake is on the DRL goes off from what I remember, and if your DRL go off that may mess with the LED's. This may or may not relate to having an electronic Relay fix rather than Resistor's for LED's... seems as though I read somewhere of a similar problem with LED's and the DRL/Parking Brake...

I am unable to help you, your problem isn't what I thought it was, you need Shoebox or Injuneer, somebody much smarter/experienced than myself!

I do wonder however what would happen if you disabled DRL...
"1997+ Chevy Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. DRL control module, a cigarette pack sized black box behind the radio. Pop off front panel over radio and heater ducts, 4 clips. The DRL module is clipped to the HVAC duct. The connectors you'll be working with are not hot but some of those leads behind the dash ARE hot, its best to disconnect the battery negative terminal to be sure. The blue connector on the DRL module has eight cavities, but only seven of them are used. Cavity B is empty. I discovered that if that terminal is grounded, your DRLs are disabled. The black wire in cavity A is a ground, so I took the DRL module apart (easy to do, the cover just slips off) and solder-jumpered the A and B terminals on the PCB. This leaves you with no DRLs, your power hatch and handbrake light still works, and it all looks factory. Easy to undo if you want. A switch can be connected in this A to B lead for DRLs as an option. You are jumping a ground, not a hot wire."
http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html

I only mention this because I read something about it and I've read that burning socket's in the front is from DRL's and simply to much heat in those corners with no way to remove the heat (vent holes)~

rv93

its that easy?? damn, now im in a dillema. i want to put a switch on that, and i have a switch panel designed to hold up to 4 switches, with only 2 currently on it, but i just spent like an hour making a Z28 logo to go in the unused space. maybe ill just disable them completely for now. I never really liked the DRLs. Nice safety feature and all, but having my HID headlights turn off whenever i start the car in the garage to move it is a huge pain. Thanks a lot!

eanhl2004

Disable Auto Head Light and Day Running Lights

here:
http://bpador.tripod.com/modinstruction.html