darinminkler

I remember reading somewhere that the rear bushings in early 4th gen Camaros were too soft for Auto X. Anyone know if thats correct ? I run a third gen IROC, my brother in law and a friend run a 93 and 95 respectively. Despite tweeking we have not been able to get the two 4th gen cars to run competitively. Switching drivers did not help so we need some advice. All of the cars are on Khumo Victoracers. The alignment settings we currently are using are .8 negetive camber, 0 toe and I can't remember how much positive caster. What else can we try?

lons94z

The 3rd gen is a better platform for autoxing. Important part there is platform, as it does have limitations.

What class are these cars in?

The 4th gens like a little toe out. Maybe 3/32" toe out. I actually run 3/16" toe out but I don't drive it on the street anymore.

Describe what other parts of the setup are and we'll be able to figure it out.

lons94z

A few basic things that you should do, and of course this depends on what class they are in.

Good shocks (Koni), large front bar (35mm hollow Strano bar) lowered ride height for more negative camber, a much better posi (T2R ONLY), and bigger tires.

315's fit and work great. In Alaska they may not get warm so 275's may work better. Depending on the time of year I have trouble heating 315's. I'm in Southern MI.

darinminkler

The 93 is in F/stock. The 95 and IROC are in E/SP. We just got back from an event today and the 93 just had the best day its ever had and won its class. The 93 has old, who knows what kind of shocks. Konis might be a little above his budget but we'll check into it. Unknown what shocks the 95 has. The 95 has a T2R, the 93 a standard T2.

lons94z

The 93 is REALLY restricted being in FS. Even the T2 isn't legal as they are supposed to have the auburn posi.

T2R is GREAT and thats a big step in the right direction on both cars.
The FS car probably can't get any more negative camber but in ESP the 95 should be able to. Both cars will work better with some toe out.

I currently have a set of revalved and shortened Bilstein shocks valved for an ESP Camaro. Just fronts. I have about $560 in them counting purchase price, and the custom work. I'm only asking $185 for them. For more details go to the classified section at FRRAX.com

darinminkler

I'll pass on the info. We'll try some toe out and keep you posted. Any idea what the 35mm Strano bar retails for $. The 93 does seem to have lots of roll so we'll look into that as well. Any recomendations on air pressures with the Kuhmos? I'll be posting later looking for any advice with the IROC. Although I'm winning right now its getting harder. Todays winning margin was .7 . My car is an 88 TPI IROC 305 5 speed. The only things done to it is a T2R, KYB shocks and struts, synthetics K&N etc. My competition is a 99 Cobra, a 95 Cobra R , the afore mentioned 95z and a 2000 Cobra R in that order. At least they are all very cool guys and a lot of fun to run with. Thanks for the advice, Darin

lons94z

I'm looking to un-load those shocks quick. I need the money for a CAI before this next weekends Pro Solo. I could go as low as $150 plus shipping if withen the next couple days.

The Strano bar is around $200. But it's much lighter than the solid 32mm or 35mm bars so shipping is MUCH cheaper.

This will help control camber in turns and help put down power better because it doesn't let the inside rear lift. Same goes for the ESP car, only with a good LSD and stiffer springs it not quite as important but still pretty important.

darinminkler

Question? You mentioned the shocks are shortened, will they work with stock springs?

lons94z

Yep.

The springs will be compressed a little more which may cause the car to set a little lower. When Bilstein shortened them it was done from the spring mount snap ring to the top of the shaft where the stock rubber mount bolts.
So when I installed my Ground Control coil overs I just had to crank up the height a little.


BTW a shortened shock is HIGHLY recomended on a lowered car.

For example if your stock shock has 6" of travel, 3" up and 3" down, lower the car one inch and you now have 4" down, 1" up. You lose shock travel when the car is lowered.