Mulletmaffia84

So I have a 1986 IROC-Z and "I want to go fast"...around corners.
I am realistic and I know ill never get this to perform like the new ZL1, but im willing to go the distance and see what this thing can do. I used to think i wanted to own the straight track. Now a little order I like to pretend every day im driving on the Nurburgring. That being said heres heres what im working with

355 Rebuild be Recon forged everything (i believe 290/290 duration. been too long) 330hp, 310lbs of tq i believe.
650 CFM with mechanicle secondary
MSD Distributor with HEI Coil
700R4 rebuilt and shift kit installed
2800 B&M stall converter
Headmen long tube header
2.5'' true dual pipes out super44 flows
2.73 rear diff open (soon to be 3.73's, do i want to go posi?)

a/c and heater removed
smog pump removed
stock radiator
stock rims and tires
stock suspension (needs to be replaced, rear sagging)
Stock braking system


I am open to any ideas, concepts, part suggestions, and theories. What are the pro's ad cons between turbos and superchargers?

rv93

an auto car, especially stalled, may be a handful in the corners. but assuming you want to stick with that, you need suspension mods. first thing would be a new panhard bar. the stock one is flimsy, and from my experience, provides questionable feel of the back wheels. then youll want subframe connectors. after that, good shocks, maybe stiffer/lower springs, definitely good tires...the list is endless.

6SpdLT1Z

Looks like you've got a lot ahead of you being pretty much stock as far as brakes/suspension goes.

Some great advice above.

Manual transmission would be a great addition. While I've never owned a stalled automatic (thought 2800 isn't that big) I can say that I feel comfortable saying a manual is more fun and I could get around a track faster in a manual than automatic. (assuming equally equipped cars)

Sounds like you plan on doing your rear end soon. Did 86 IROC's come with rear disc brakes? I'm guessing not. You might look at swapping in a 4th gen rear axle for a posi + rear discs. You should be able to easily find one with 3.42's out of a manual car which will put you close enough to the 3.73 rear ratio to tide you over for a while.

Wild Willy

Sub frame connectors, the 3-point ones are even better at tying everything together, reducing flex. The 3-point design works well with the torque arm, putting the rear axle torque loads from accell and braking into the chassis, rather that the end of the transmission.

If you are going to run on a track, prolonged high speed, at the very least upgrade the pads for the brakes. Better yet would be larger brakes, either later model Camaros or a Corvette brake adapter kit. Bilstein or Koni shocks will help firm up the ride and handling. Depends how fat your wallet is. Also, some performance tires. You would have more options on sizes if you go to a larger wheel, run more wheel and less tire sidewall, again, less flex. Rides harsher, handles better. Your choice.

RickZ28

Strano Performance Parts - Parts Catalog

Here is where you want to go. Sam hold alot of records in Auto X. Knows his Camaros. He also will discuss over the phone any questions you might have.

410 ???????

Paul Huryk

To handle as good as possible, you will need to cover a few bases:

1) Wider wheels & tires - 275-40-17 in an agressive pattern will work well
2) Chassis bracing - weld in subframes, strut tower brace, wonderbar
3) Replace factory items that have heavy deflection under load - front control arms, rear control arms, panhard rod, Tq arm, sway bar bushings & endlinks
4) Lowering springs that feature higher spring rates - lower center of gravity and less lean in corners
5) Weight reduction - as an example, the factory steel hoods weigh about 35lbs more than fiberglass and offer zero increase in crash protection. Ditto for a lot of other "dead weight" items...

I'm not going to cover engines or brakes, but as the IROCs all have 80's brake technology - upgrading is a perfectly smart and reasonably priced step to do.