Fixing up the 'Bird before Summer hits
Fixing up the 'Bird before Summer hits
Whats up Summer is just around the corner, and I need to fix my car so I can enjoy it in the wam weather.
OK, I need advice for the following:
1. My steering is VERY loose and the pump is making noises on top of this. Is there an aftrmarket steering column & pump I can buy, or if not, how much is the stock column & pump + labor?
2. My suspension is shot. It's stock so it has over 8 years under its belt. I don't want to lower my car because of the bad streets and potholes in Boston. Is there a really good suspension kit that won't empty my wallet I should get, or should I upgrade to 1LE? Also, how much will it cost me (plus labor)?
3. Finally, my brakes are almost griding metal. Again, is there a really good aftermarket 11.x" brakes that aren't to expensive I should get or just upgrade to 1LE? How much with labor?
Thx so much in advance. I want to take a loan out to pay for this right now.
OK, I need advice for the following:
1. My steering is VERY loose and the pump is making noises on top of this. Is there an aftrmarket steering column & pump I can buy, or if not, how much is the stock column & pump + labor?
2. My suspension is shot. It's stock so it has over 8 years under its belt. I don't want to lower my car because of the bad streets and potholes in Boston. Is there a really good suspension kit that won't empty my wallet I should get, or should I upgrade to 1LE? Also, how much will it cost me (plus labor)?
3. Finally, my brakes are almost griding metal. Again, is there a really good aftermarket 11.x" brakes that aren't to expensive I should get or just upgrade to 1LE? How much with labor?
Thx so much in advance. I want to take a loan out to pay for this right now.
1. You can have your column looked at by the dealer, there is a recall for loose shafts. Otherwise, check your tie rod ends and PS pump for leaks, blown hoses, etc... If the pump is good, flush it, and also check the rack and pinion for leaks and tears around the rubber boots.
2. The suspension can have a lot done to it. If you want to reatain stock components, just reaplace the rubber bushings with a kit from Energy Suspension or someone. They sell entire kits that include sway bar bushings, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, etc... As far as shocks, some people go with the Qa1's that are a coil over, or you can go with Bilsteins, and KYB makes a good shock for these cars ( I have used them myself with no complaints ). You can upgrade to 1LE components, but for most street driving the stock components are more than adequate.
3. Brakes can be done yourself, and by the way that you describe this, replace all of the rotors (turning them makes them thin and inadequate), and go with some high quality pads. Some people will say to go with cross-drilled rotors, and others will throw a fit. The stock rotors have cooling fins built into them, so they are fine. But, upgrade to a semi-metallic pad, nothing too hard, then for street use they are worthless because they have to be heated up to higher temps. Back to the rotors, it was explained perfect by a member on this board. "If stock (non-drilled) rotors are so bad, then why are they on 200+ mph Winston cup cars?" That pretty much answred my question on whether or not to spend the cash!
Happy Rodding!!
Oh yeah, make sure that you get a CAI, or make one yourself. hint-the stock airbox can be cut completely open in the front and still house the fillter without compromising the filtering capapbilities.
2. The suspension can have a lot done to it. If you want to reatain stock components, just reaplace the rubber bushings with a kit from Energy Suspension or someone. They sell entire kits that include sway bar bushings, tie rod ends, control arm bushings, etc... As far as shocks, some people go with the Qa1's that are a coil over, or you can go with Bilsteins, and KYB makes a good shock for these cars ( I have used them myself with no complaints ). You can upgrade to 1LE components, but for most street driving the stock components are more than adequate.
3. Brakes can be done yourself, and by the way that you describe this, replace all of the rotors (turning them makes them thin and inadequate), and go with some high quality pads. Some people will say to go with cross-drilled rotors, and others will throw a fit. The stock rotors have cooling fins built into them, so they are fine. But, upgrade to a semi-metallic pad, nothing too hard, then for street use they are worthless because they have to be heated up to higher temps. Back to the rotors, it was explained perfect by a member on this board. "If stock (non-drilled) rotors are so bad, then why are they on 200+ mph Winston cup cars?" That pretty much answred my question on whether or not to spend the cash!
Happy Rodding!!
Oh yeah, make sure that you get a CAI, or make one yourself. hint-the stock airbox can be cut completely open in the front and still house the fillter without compromising the filtering capapbilities.
Thanks hairbear21, for the very helpful info.
I will check my dealer for steering column recals though I heard nothing of it. My PS pump does leak from the black box that holds the fluid, and I did have it replaced in the past.
Stock suspension will do, but I do want it to be adjustable. Have you heard and good/bad things about these suspensions? Say I installed an adjustable suspension, can I then just turn a **** (by hand or by tool?) and watch my car change height? Or do I have to jack up the wheel before adjusting?
My rotars are gone as well as the pads so I think i'll be replacing with stock....
Any suggestions on CAI? I have a crappy G2 which I think isn't much different from stock.
Thx again!
I will check my dealer for steering column recals though I heard nothing of it. My PS pump does leak from the black box that holds the fluid, and I did have it replaced in the past.
Stock suspension will do, but I do want it to be adjustable. Have you heard and good/bad things about these suspensions? Say I installed an adjustable suspension, can I then just turn a **** (by hand or by tool?) and watch my car change height? Or do I have to jack up the wheel before adjusting?
My rotars are gone as well as the pads so I think i'll be replacing with stock....
Any suggestions on CAI? I have a crappy G2 which I think isn't much different from stock.
Thx again!
Last edited by Black_95Formula; Mar 26, 2003 at 11:07 AM.
I don't recall what site I was on, but you can go to Chevrolet.com and they will have the recall. It is for a steering shaft looseness issue.
You may want to replace the hoses for your PS. You may have a bad pump also that is oeverpressurizing the system. but if that was the case, it should be coming out of the top of the resevoir as well. Hoses won't be too bad, I would take it to someone if you don't have the right tools or know-how.
As far as suspension setup, I think that the QA1's are adjustable.
CAI, I would go with Moroso, they are pretty much the cheapest and have about the same gains as everyone else.
You may want to replace the hoses for your PS. You may have a bad pump also that is oeverpressurizing the system. but if that was the case, it should be coming out of the top of the resevoir as well. Hoses won't be too bad, I would take it to someone if you don't have the right tools or know-how.
As far as suspension setup, I think that the QA1's are adjustable.
CAI, I would go with Moroso, they are pretty much the cheapest and have about the same gains as everyone else.
Hi. Thought I'd offer my 2 cents. Can't help you much with the first question. As far as suspension goes everybody is going to give you a different answer. My suspension is in the same boat as yours is, as my shocks and springs are stock as well. SLP's level one kit doesn't lower the car, however some say it lowers .75". It comes with springs, shocks and some other stuff as a kit which would really make your car handle and retain height for your headers. That kit is around $600. That is what I would do if I wanted to change without lowering. Again everybody has a different opinion on this. Shocks are probably going to give you the biggest bang for the buck. The shocks mentioned above are all said to be good. One though that I'll mention is that it is the srping that controls ride height and not the shock. So if you get an adjustable shock, it adjusts the shocks characteristics and not the car's ride height. As for aftermarket springs that don't lower I'm not sure what the best is although I'm not sure I'd consider 1LE an upgrade over stock.
As far as brakes go, KVR rotors from fast toys makes a stock replacement rotor that can be had without holes or slots. The rotors are stock dimensions but the walls of the rotors are thicker which helps prevent warping. There is a link in my sig you can click and it should take you right to the page.
As far as brakes go, KVR rotors from fast toys makes a stock replacement rotor that can be had without holes or slots. The rotors are stock dimensions but the walls of the rotors are thicker which helps prevent warping. There is a link in my sig you can click and it should take you right to the page.
I'm on my 4th f-body, and two had bad ps pumps, but they are tight, not loose, so must be a column problem. If it whines then again that could be the pump. I would check the fluid and check for air bubbles and go from there.
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