383 break in?

is there a difference when breaking in an engine if it has higher displacement than say how you would break in a 305 or 350?

someone is trying to tell me because the amount of new power their is a different procedure to break in?


what is the proper way to break an engine in?

can it hurt to start an engine that hasn't been "broken in" yet? say for example if you want to check for problems or just for the heck of it?

I hope you haven't fired it yet right after a rebuild and didn't prime the oil pump and turn the oil pump to get some oil in the lifter galley and coating some of the other parts in the motor. As for the rest of it, I would just think that break in as normal. Maybe see what the parts manufactures recomend for the combinations you are running?? Good luck.

I pulled the coil wire off and cranked it over for about 10secs to get everything oiled up before starting it..

Cody

I guess that would work to, but personally I would find someway to use a drill to turn the oil pump from the UDP point (I'm having a brain fart cause the oil pump drive is underdriven off the crank right :rolleyes: @ self). I have seen that done on Horsepower TV (no I know what yall are thinking, great one of those shows) but it has been one of the better build up shows on TV. I would just be really worried about trying to crank a new motor over, with or without the use of the starter, before I knew that oil had been run through the system. I guess I'm a little phobic when it comes to those bearings, lifters, pushrods, and other reciprocating parts. As I continue to ramble, I can't wait for the day when I actually do get to tear apart a motor or build one from the ground up.

Make sure you have the spark plugs out and you wont put much stress at all on the bottem-end of the motor :D

Originally posted by sb427f-car
I guess that would work to, but personally I would find someway to use a drill to turn the oil pump from the UDP point (I'm having a brain fart cause the oil pump drive is underdriven off the crank right :rolleyes: @ self). I have seen that done on Horsepower TV (no I know what yall are thinking, great one of those shows) but it has been one of the better build up shows on TV. I would just be really worried about trying to crank a new motor over, with or without the use of the starter, before I knew that oil had been run through the system. I guess I'm a little phobic when it comes to those bearings, lifters, pushrods, and other reciprocating parts. As I continue to ramble, I can't wait for the day when I actually do get to tear apart a motor or build one from the ground up.

On a LT1 it's a little harder. One good way to prevent bearing damage is to use a nice thick bearing lube and cam lube. That will allow you to crank the engine over with the starter instead and shouldn't hurt anything. Just make sure you use a sticky assembly lube on the lifter bores and lube up the valve guides well. I use a Total Seal product on the bores to help seat the rings, it prevents startup wear and the rings seat amazingly quick, hence it's name QuikSeat. After that, just run that puppy under light load for about 45 min to an hour varing the speed on the engine in the 2000-2500rpm range.

On any engine no matter what it's displacement, you should take care to properly break in the engine.

Then after you turn it off after the break in, check things like head TQ specs and for other leaks, let it cool off a bit and then it's ready to roll.

Bret