a stronger rearend for under 1k$, can i?

stock 1987 IROC 305 TPI

what can i do to the rear to make it hold more HP, things that i could do myself would be preferable.....

Cast aluminum rear cover with bearing cap supports
Weld the axle tubes.
Aftermarket 28 spline axles. This will mean you need to change the carrier for 28 spline axles. While you're at it, install a solid pinion crush sleeve.

After that, there's not much more you can to. Mine ran easily into the low 11's. I only switched to a 9" when I installed a transbrake in the tranny.

Another option is to find a 9 bolt and swap it in.

welding can be done, i have a friend who'd do it for free (as long as i told him what he had to do)

rear cover /w supports? what is it, whats it do, how much it cost?

28 spline axles, carrier, and solid pinion crush sleeve, im guessing the 28 spline gives it more teeth for my strength, how much would this cost for parts?

im looking to build the rear to hold like, a 13.3 car with maybe a 75shot in the future...nothing crazy...just want to give a little strength

Stealth you need to either find your axle RPO or crawl under the car and count your diff cover bolts. That IROC very well might have a 9-bolt already, and those rears are good to about 450hp.

"If" you have a 10 bolt, the best rear cover is LPW. http://www.lpwracing.com/capcover.htm

Good aftermarket 28 spline axles are in the $100-$150 each range. www.tomsdifferentials.com is one place that sells them. They have them listed for 90-92 f-bodies but if you buy a 28 spline carrier (posi) you can use those axles in any third gen diff. The spline count is on the ends of the axles. The more splines, the larger the axles. 82-89 10 bolts are only 26 spline and have tapered axles making them very weak. Even the factory 28 spline axles are tapered. Aftermarket ones are not.

Ultimate 10 bolt buildup
http://www.ws6transam.org/10bolt.html

Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC
"If" you have a 10 bolt, the best rear cover is LPW. http://www.lpwracing.com/capcover.htm

Ultimate 10 bolt buildup
http://www.ws6transam.org/10bolt.html

I'll second that Ultimate setup from LPW. Make sure you get the rear cover designed for their tube brace kit. I have both of those, along with welded tubes on the 02 TA rear in my car. Should be good to at least high 11's, after which you would want the aftermarket axles.

i have a ten bolt posi, i can't find the goddamn axle code though


also, there is a metal beam running from wheel to wheel directly behind the diff cover, is that supposed to be bent in a z? i think went i broke my wheel, i bent up my rear suspension or whatever, cause it's definately a VERY stretched out S, notstraight

http://www.zero-effect.org/irocz/bent.jpg

http://www.zero-effect.org/irocz/bent2.jpg

that can't be good can it?

Ohhhhhh thats bad. That is your panhard bar and should not be bent like that. Its probably throwing your rear end alignment way off. Maybe even dogtracking down the road! However, the bar above it, the brace, is supposed to be bent a little. But certainly NOT the panhard!

The axle code will be quite difficult to find. It is on the passenger side axle tube, about 3-4" from the diff housing, facing towards the front of the car. I bet the tube is so rusted you can't see a damn thing. You need to clean of the area with a wire brush.

yea it was rusted over, i looked in that spot a million times, couldnt' see a damn thing, all rusted, ill try again another time, i just took a shower...not going under there again

****, how much is a panhard bar to replace? can it be done by myself or do i have to get someone else to do it? i checked my axles where they met my carrier, thats all straight, just that bar was bent, prolly from when i hit the cement block that broke my wheel?

The panhard is very easy to replace. Put your rear subframe on jackstands and put a jack under the differential so you can move the rear up and down. Take out 2 bolts and pull out the PHR, then stick the new one in and put a bolt in the passenger end. Now you can use the jack to position the rear so that the bar will line up with the mount and you can stick the 2nd bolt in. Tighten them up and take her down and you're done. It's a 45 minute job.

While you're changing it get a better one...the stock stamped one is too flexible anyway.......www.spohn.net sells a nice one.

would i be safe to buy all my suspension needs from spohn? I plan on getting SFC's and LCA's as well, the panhard will definately go, but probably not until june. Probably I'll just go buy all three at once. thnx for that link

that 10 bolt article said that 10 bolts are pretty much no good for more then 400HP....how hard is it to do a rear swap? like, if i find a donor car and can get a complete rear out of a car, how hard is the swap?

is a 10bolt from a 4th gen any better then a 3rd gen 10 bolt?

that 10bolt buildup website didn't give any prices, so he got 28 spline axles, and a stronger 29 spline carrier (? not sure about terminology) i still have no idea exactly what i need and the price

i understood about making the case more rigid...but im not getting the whole picture, like ALL the parts needed to make a 10bolt hold up, because from the sound of it unless you address everything it's gonna fall apart

Spohn is the place to go for 3rd gen suspension pieces. The 4th gen 10-bolt is just like the late 3rd gen (28 spline) 10-bolt, except a couple inches longer. The early 3rd gen (26 spline) 10-bolt is a bit weaker. A rear end swap will take anywhere from 2-5 hours, depending on whether you have air tools and help. It's a simple bolt in, but you have to bleed the brakes when you're done.

As ar as adressing everything....you really do have to. If you only upgrade one or 2 components, then you're just changing the weakness. I.E. stronger axles and carrier will strengthen the rear, but they'll also make the bearing caps the weakest link. Then you get cap walk and that's not fun. You can fix that with a stud girdle, but then the gears are the weak link. So you get aftermarket gears.....then you have to get c-clip eliminators, because the clips will break and tear stuff up, then you have to weld the axle tubes because you start getting case distortion.....it's just a mess once you get past 400hp or so.

when you say 400 HP you mean 400 at the wheels right? im only figuring on like 325-350 RWHP...

thnx for all the info i appreciate it

Yeah a 10-bolt will be just fine with that kind of power. Throw a posi and a good set of gears in it and enjoy!!

You could pick up a factory panhard dirt cheap. Most junkyards will sell them to you for $10. And I'm sure a LOT of people around here have their stockers just sitting around somewhere taking up space - they could cut you a nice deal. Or, if you have the money, go aftermarket. Spohn makes a real nice piece, but his stuff is a little pricey. Lakewood sells one just as strong for well under $100. Just a couple of bolts.

And your 10 bolt should be OK. Just don't run slicks. And if you have a manual trans, stay away from dumps and powershifting.

yea, i figured if im not putting all of that traction down via slicks id be ok

i have a 10bolt posi as it is...i can't get my axle code, im gonna go check with a wire brush this time and see if i can decipher it and find out my gears

I've got a 9-Bolt with 3.45s and disc brakes if your interested

Originally posted by ET3Partridge
I've got a 9-Bolt with 3.45s and disc brakes if your interested

How much?

How much?

You can buy the whole car for $1100. Make me an offer if you just want the rear.

the 87' iroc? does it run? i have an 87 iroc and i need parts (bumper, fender, door etc) for 1100$ id be interested, cept for the problem of getting it to new jersey

Do you have pics of that car? I need a body to go around my drivetrain and if it's in good shape I'd be interested in buying it and selling the rear and such out of it.

It runs very well, cosmetically it is not so great. It has been in a front end collision. It has an 84 nose on it and the passenger fender is crushed. The rest of the car is in great shape though. it has new side GFX that haven't been painted yet. I can e mail a picture, but it doesn't show any of the damage. It has every factory option except for T-Tops and Leather. I'm in the Navy and I am going to be moving duty stations soon...and its one project I just don't feel like taking with me.

In the Navy....been there done that. I'm an ex-nuke Twidget myself actually :cool: so I know how it is. Is Chief Novak still stationed at NNPTU? He helped me out a LOT when I was there.....

Can you get pics of the body damage? A lot of nukes are technofiends so I KNOW somebody has a digital camera you can use for a day. If not shoot me a pic of before the damage and I might drive up there and take it off your hands. Email me when you get a chance.

I'll see what I can do about pictures. It might take the weekend. The body damage has been repaired via panel replacement. It still needs a passenger side fender. It was a Coastie that killed it, then fixed it. I bought it as a project, that I never had time to start, so it ended up getting me to work and back every day. I have all the A/C stuff except the hoses, its just that they are in my 'shed'. A lot of the interior was removed, but I have it all. Its got a new IROC hood w/ louvers...but its not painted. If you Give me an E-Mail address for the pictures, and I can send the one I have now.