Do our rear brakes warp like the front?

Hey guys,
Do our rear brakes warp like the front do? I'm about to replace the front brakes with Autozone stuff cuz its cheap and supposed to be better than factory. What about the backs?

Chris

no rears are fine

fronts will go WAY before the rears...if your going to do alot of hard street/track/road racing get slotted and cross drilled rotors cause you will worp the stock ones if you beat on them alot.

Around 50K I had to cut both front and rear rotors due to warpage.

I have heard of LS1 cars warping rotors, does anyone know why? I assume that the brakes are better than on LT1 cars, but I haven't had a problem with the stock or drilled rotors on mine.

I would assume GM found a cheap chinese supplier for the rotors, which would cause the problem, but I am curious what you guys have found.

Scott

Originally posted by ScottZ
I have heard of LS1 cars warping rotors, does anyone know why? I assume that the brakes are better than on LT1 cars, but I haven't had a problem with the stock or drilled rotors on mine.

I would assume GM found a cheap chinese supplier for the rotors, which would cause the problem, but I am curious what you guys have found.

Scott

The warping of rotors is normal wear and tear for any car with disc brakes. Sure it will happen more with an increased amount of abuse, but even if you take care of your car, rotor warpage is bound to happen.

I have been road racing and autoX'ing with mine for two years and have yet to have any problems. Not to disagree, but I do disagree. Abuse will cause warpage, because it is a result of high temperatures, and the brake system not dissapating that heat. My Eclipse was awful for it, 3200lb car with 10" rotors and single piston calipers, so it the cause was obvious. These cars have truck parts for the brake system, so it seems to be adequate on paper.

Thanks for your input. I am shopping for an LS1 T/A or Z28, so this is helpful to me.

Scott

Originally posted by ScottZ
I have been road racing and autoX'ing with mine for two years and have yet to have any problems. Not to disagree, but I do disagree. Abuse will cause warpage, because it is a result of high temperatures, and the brake system not dissapating that heat. My Eclipse was awful for it, 3200lb car with 10" rotors and single piston calipers, so it the cause was obvious. These cars have truck parts for the brake system, so it seems to be adequate on paper.

Thanks for your input. I am shopping for an LS1 T/A or Z28, so this is helpful to me.

Scott

Hmmm, I see what youre saying but at the same time I know that at some time or another I've had a rotor go bad on pretty much every daily driven car my family has owned for a decent time period. It was usually... around ~4-5 years untli something went wrong depending on milage of the car. None of these cars, a Chrsler Town & Country, Ford F-150 and a 77 Camaro have fantastic brakingi systems though either. Getting rotors resurfaced is far more frequent than warpage from what I've seen.

(Me and my father do our brake work ourselves. We dissassemble, clean and then take rotors into be serviced if need be.)

I may be wrong though. I'm interested in other people's input on this.

If you go with Auto Zone brakes, DO NOT get their Albany brand (the cheaper ones). Go with the Performance Frictions. I worked there for 2 years and saw rotors come back at an alarming rate, chewed to hell by those Albany brakes. They're very rough on your rotors.

the warped feeling may be brake pad material deposited unevenly on your rotor.. it might go away after a while if it disappears, or gets worse cause the extra material attracts even more material ont op.... when you resurface the the rotor this layer goes away..

Also, there's another theory that your lugnuts must be properly tq'd... since the only thing holding your rotor in place is the hub, rims, and lugnuts.... Not tq'ing the lugs right may damage the rotor........

Anyways, my front brakes felt warped at about 11,000 miles... I replaced the fronts with KVR blank rotors and hawk HPS pads.. tq'd the lugs evenly to 100 lb-ft. 30,000 miles later, everything is still perfect... I'm planning to do AZ rotors all they way around and either HPS or HP+ pads soon.

I dunno if you want slotted or crossdrilled rotors..unless they were made right.. with cast in chamfered holes and slots. But is gassing really an issue with common street pads? Maybe the reduced mass of the rotor might help a little, but then thats less mass for the rotor to act like heatsink...

A lot more of the brake distrubution is torward the front, so expect to replace the front a lot more often.

Originally posted by ScottZ
I have been road racing and autoX'ing with mine for two years and have yet to have any problems.

Scott

Hmm,then you know that the rear pads get cooked in the rear open tracking(acctually f&r).And a sure fire way to warp yer rear rotors is to come off track hot a set the parking brake that'll doit. I come in and about 1.5 to 2.5 mins later move the car forward a little to prevet the calipers from warping the rotors.Heat streaking is an issue on the rotors and any little rock or something from an off trak excursion will groovem in a hurry.
The LS braking is way better then the LTs,Performance frictions are excellent for a person who likes to stop hard,Hawks yes.
I was thinking of trying Cobalt.
T.

GET ERADISPEEDS:p :D

i have them on all 4 and love em:D

Originally posted by stik6shift98
GET ERADISPEEDS:p :D

i have them on all 4 and love em:D

Yeah I'll bet those are sweet,got the Baer calipers too? I'm kinda thinkin of the track kit w/ the eradispeeds.
T.

Originally posted by stik6shift98
GET ERADISPEEDS:p :D

i have them on all 4 and love em:D

That's what I'm aiming for next.

Originally posted by #7
Yeah I'll bet those are sweet,got the Baer calipers too? I'm kinda thinkin of the track kit w/ the eradispeeds.
T.


no just the rotors

Originally posted by 00LukeyWS6
That's what I'm aiming for next.

sweet wait for a gp with speed inc thats what i did