Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

12 rib became a 10 rib :(

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Old Sep 14, 2009 | 02:16 PM
  #1  
97SS0594's Avatar
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From: baycity, mi
12 rib became a 10 rib :(

has a wierd knocking sound on the camaro so i dug in a little to find the 12 rib blower belt had walked off 2 ribs and it had tore it off. i checked my alignment with a straight edge and it seems to be ok. crank is pinned and the blower pulley is tight, belt is as tight as a guitarstring right now too... any other things i should check? oh and i also have a rotational vibration comming from somewhere, could i have bent my crank?
Old Sep 14, 2009 | 04:04 PM
  #2  
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Using the original bracket from Procharger? I'd put my money on the idler arm flexing out under load. Mine does the same thing. Most switch over to a spring tension from SDCE. Another member on here did something totally different to keep his arm in check but I'd hate to jack up his board name but I'll find a link to his pics. You'll have to go to his main page...blocked from work. http://s306.photobucket.com/albums/nn244/mzgp5x/

Bent crank? Not sure about that but how's your oil pressure? Any audible sounds coming from the block?

Last edited by The SRZ; Sep 14, 2009 at 04:09 PM.
Old Sep 14, 2009 | 04:38 PM
  #3  
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oil pressure is good, but im gonna have to look into the differant tensioner id bet thats my problem
Old Sep 14, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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I had a belt jump the pulley and shear off very similar. Finally fixed it with a simple delrin idler stop. A belt that has different tangent to tangent segment lenghts on top and bottom will impart large force on the ATI idler arm and cause large amplitudes which can cause the belt to jump. This usually happens when full into the throttle then out. Anyway, the belt tension does not have to be a "bango" string when I installed the idler arm amplitude stop. Once I had found the root cause of the engineering problem, it was easy to formulate a fix. I don't think you will get any help from ATI. Hope this helps. B.
Old Sep 22, 2009 | 09:55 PM
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I recently had and fixed this problem after~ 13,000 miles of no problems, but before I fixed it I did everything including:
1 - adding bracing to the original bracket
2 - perfecting the alignment of the crank and blower pulley
3 - Built a hard mechanical stop to limit the retraction of the idler

None of this did anything, what I found was the Idler itself was wearing on the housing that keeps it straight, causing it to tilt, or look bent.

All i did to fix it was loosen the stock idler from the main bracket and insert a 1-2mm thick 1" wide piece of metal on the side with the wear, between the idler body and the main bracket, and greased the area that wears (since it was completly dry).

Problem went away immediately after this!
Old Sep 23, 2009 | 09:33 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by dookie454
I recently had and fixed this problem after~ 13,000 miles of no problems, but before I fixed it I did everything including:
1 - adding bracing to the original bracket
2 - perfecting the alignment of the crank and blower pulley
3 - Built a hard mechanical stop to limit the retraction of the idler

None of this did anything, what I found was the Idler itself was wearing on the housing that keeps it straight, causing it to tilt, or look bent.

All i did to fix it was loosen the stock idler from the main bracket and insert a 1-2mm thick 1" wide piece of metal on the side with the wear, between the idler body and the main bracket, and greased the area that wears (since it was completly dry).

Problem went away immediately after this!
Thanks for the tip! If that's the solution, man that would be sweet. Save a lot of SC guys a ton of money.
Old Sep 25, 2009 | 10:25 AM
  #7  
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I also had to fix (machined a new piece) the idler arm bearing pinion/ shaft bushing. Poor quality machine tolerance by ATI. There was excessive radial clearance on the mounting bolt resulting in end-play and vibration. Sometimes bolt-on stuff just does not work for your application. I've learned to mod it myself. I have also changed all ATI's mount fastener studs and spacer bushings. I question everything. B.
Old Sep 25, 2009 | 09:58 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by The SRZ
Thanks for the tip! If that's the solution, man that would be sweet. Save a lot of SC guys a ton of money.

No prob. I put alot of work into it. I would think if your setup has some miles on it and it's worked good for awhile then suddenly your throwing belts, well it's either something loose or a "worn" idler.

Again if it's never worked right then it's definately an alignment problem and secondly an "engineering" problem.
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