RealQuick 02-07-2009, 10:25 PM Another build i am working on. Hopefully he will chime in more details on his setup.
383ci LTX
Custom Hotparts utilizing SLP Dual cat headers
T76
40mm JGS wastegate
56mm JGS BOV
4" A2A IC and 3" piping
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01262.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01265.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01263.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01264.jpg
Nice.... Looks almost like you are adapting your designs every time I see them.
97SS0594 02-08-2009, 09:56 AM man i want one of your kits! but all my money just went into buying a house.
95z28_m6 02-08-2009, 08:40 PM About the car.
1995 z28 m6
GES 383 short block
LE2 heads
single plane intake
solid hydrolic roller cam (still not shure on the specs yet)
duel in tank 255 pumps
meth injected
motor will likely see around 18psi
Mcleoud twin disk
strange 12 bolt w/4.10s
summit star wheels 10.5 x 15 rear 4 x 15 front
m/t et streets
car is also getting a cage
The hotside is looking awesome! I cant wait to get this thing together. Nothing quite like getting to build the car of your dreams!:yes: Thanks for the pics RealQuick.
RealQuick 02-08-2009, 08:55 PM No problem bro! Shoot me an email about the cam. I can help ya with specs...
Jon
reamo04 02-08-2009, 10:19 PM god those headers look funky
RealQuick 02-13-2009, 09:22 AM Hotparts are done... didn't get a chance to post pics. I will have pics tonight.
engineermike 02-14-2009, 03:52 AM single plane intake ...motor will likely see around 18psi.
The T76 will not allow a 38X cid engine rev high enough to get any advantage out of the single plane conversion.
It's been proven on the dyno that the SP doesn't help any until 6200 rpm, depending on combination. That combo will peak at 5800 at best and drop quick above there due to the turbo choking.
Consider saving some money/effort and making more power by using an LTx intake.
RealQuick 02-14-2009, 11:43 AM Some pics before the DP was finished.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01327.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01325.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01328.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01330.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01329.jpg
RealQuick 02-14-2009, 10:53 PM the finished DP (designed that way for easy installation)
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01332.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01333.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01334.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01335.jpg
jay_rich 02-15-2009, 02:45 PM Wow lookin good! I wish i could bring my passenger header under the accesories but my stupid 3rd gen pitman arm steering box setup ruins that.
Jay
RealQuick 02-16-2009, 04:05 PM Thanks!
RealQuick 03-16-2009, 11:45 PM Update... cold side... some welded up and some tacked for mockup.
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01404.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01409.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01412.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01415.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01416.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01418.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01416.jpg
RealQuick 03-23-2009, 04:21 PM Kit is done. Just waiting on a few miscellaneous connectors/clamps/fittings.
TA Dreaming 03-23-2009, 09:53 PM Will you be able to post a dyno graph of the car or will that be the owner's responsibility?
RealQuick 03-23-2009, 10:52 PM Will you be able to post a dyno graph of the car or will that be the owner's responsibility?
Either him or me. he would be dynoing it... so if he gives me the scan i can put it up.
RealQuick 03-24-2009, 12:05 AM Some cold side stuff
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01421.jpg
http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f94/RealQuick/Chris%20Berger/DSC01420.jpg
c0rey 03-24-2009, 10:48 PM Are you still miggin? if so thats looking real good looks like u turned ur heat way down. Your welds are def improving. Think there is any negative affects using steel piping vs alum for the cold side if it was just painted?
reamo04 03-24-2009, 11:00 PM Are you still miggin? if so thats looking real good looks like u turned ur heat way down. Your welds are def improving. Think there is any negative affects using steel piping vs alum for the cold side if it was just painted?
the only downsides i can see are
a) weight, a cube foot of steel weighs 467 lbs, aluminum is only 168
b) aluminum dissipates heat MUCH faster than steel
RealQuick 03-25-2009, 12:50 AM Are you still miggin? if so thats looking real good looks like u turned ur heat way down. Your welds are def improving. Think there is any negative affects using steel piping vs alum for the cold side if it was just painted?
Thanks. Yeah, i am still miggin. It helps to grind/smooth the welds down. before, if I saw a suspect area, i would just lay a bead over it. Now I grind it flush and relay a bead.
Like Adam said, steel will corrode versus aluminum (rusting), and steel is heavier. Aluminum dissipated heat better as well.
MikeGyver 03-25-2009, 01:23 AM the only downsides i can see are
a) weight, a cube foot of steel weighs 467 lbs, aluminum is only 168
b) aluminum dissipates heat MUCH faster than steel
More pertainent, aluminum is much more expensive and difficult to work with. Requires an AC TIG welder.
Aluminum also sinks heat very efficiently.
High underhood temperatures can ADD heat to the cooler charge air. In the front of the car (think FMIC) aluminum pipe would run cold, in the engine bay it could run hot. In such a case you can see why piping material with high thermal conductivity could be worse.
reamo04 03-25-2009, 12:49 PM More pertainent, aluminum is much more expensive and difficult to work with. Requires an AC TIG welder.
Aluminum also sinks heat very efficiently.
High underhood temperatures can ADD heat to the cooler charge air. In the front of the car (think FMIC) aluminum pipe would run cold, in the engine bay it could run hot. In such a case you can see why piping material with high thermal conductivity could be worse.
thats an interesting concept, i have never thought of that.
You could get the radiant heat-reflectors and put around the aluminum piping to help, but that looks kind of ugly. Ceramic coating the hotside will also help.
im wondering what kind of gains we could get with a aluminum-copper intercooler. Copper is the second best thermal conductor behind silver,a luminum is behind copper so i think we could gain something there.
Jon, you have your engineering degree, get to work! :D
theres so much cool stuff we could use for cars, now how pratical is another story as the costs would go up tremendously probably.
example, your talking about the aluminum gaining heat fast in the engine bay....use inconel or any other nickel based alloy as it does not transfer heat for crap.
RealQuick 03-25-2009, 03:42 PM Coatings for the win (ceramic or PC)! :D
TA Dreaming 03-25-2009, 04:22 PM Stainless steel does not tranfer heat as quickly as aluminum and cools rapidly. Downside is cost and it's a strong metal. Any cutting or bending will not be easy compared to steel or aluminum. If you want pretty though, I'd take ss over aluminum unless you need lightweight.
boosted-lt1 03-25-2009, 05:44 PM I would imagine that underhood temp is much less than intake charge temp when moving. If that's the case then aluminum would reduce charge temp compared to steel because the HT coeff is greater. It would depend on which temp is greater - the gas in the pipe, or the atm. Heat moves from hot to cold.
This discussion actually fits well with the one on hot side plumbing. We want to retain heat in the hotside. And we want to remove heat from the cold side. :)
MikeGyver 03-26-2009, 01:19 AM My air intake temps under boost were like 15 degrees above ambient. Much cooler than the underhood temps.
My intercooler outlet feels ice cold, and that same pipe going into the throttle body elbow is very warm to the touch (due to underhood heat saturation).
Heat simply moves to a colder region. In this case from the engine bay, through the intake pipe, and into the charge air.
A ceramic heat barrier coating like HPC would be very beneficial when used on the intercooler outlet pipe to the intake elbow. After the air leaves the intercooler and travels into the engine bay, it's obviously only going to heat up, not cool down further.
JohnnyPappis 03-26-2009, 01:27 AM Great work! you keep getting better and better and for anyone considering buying one of his kits...He is by far one of the best people to do business with. Not that I would know or anything ; ) Its a shame I need to sell mine now. = (
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