Can I make 1000 horsepower with an F1A

I see forums over on ls1tech all the time where guys make 1000+ hp with a built ls1. Im thinking about opening up the bottom end of my 355 and adding 4 bolt splayed caps, forged crank, better rods and diamond pistons.

I want to put a 3.4 inch pulley on my F1A and see what happens! With a built 383 with all the doo dads, will i even get close to 1000 with a 3.4 inch pulley?

hmmm... 1000fwhp or 1000rwhp?

I see you getting to 800-850rwhp max with the F1A... that will convert to ~1000fwhp.

Now if you want 1000rwhp, time to start rethinking your combo.

hmmm... 1000fwhp or 1000rwhp?

I see you getting to 800-850rwhp max with the F1A... that will convert to ~1000fwhp.

Now if you want 1000rwhp, time to start rethinking your combo.

RWHP;)

Thought the F1a could make more than 850 rwhp. Im assuming I can boost 25+ psi with an f1a..so theres NO WAY to make 1000 rwhp with this combo? I could get there with some spray on top

...with one 255 in tank? :no: Your gonna need to do more then the pulley. A healthy fuel system, some cubes, some strength and some boost and its very possible. Its all in the details though.

Ken R.

RWHP;)

Thought the F1a could make more than 850 rwhp. Im assuming I can boost 25+ psi with an f1a..so theres NO WAY to make 1000 rwhp with this combo? I could get there with some spray on top

Not with those heads. You are going to need something special to get there IMO.

Id also imagine you might need a cog drive for the blower to see 25 psi. But your definatly going to need a fuel system. Maybe a 300 shot???

you will break the block. 1000hp at the crank is all it will take unless you fill the block. trust me. We built an Impala that made 890 rwhp through a th400 and loose converter F1r and it twisted the block and broke the heads. filled the block with a F2 the car made 1200 rwhp

ramair96ws6,

I'd be interested in what broke in the example you gave. Was it the block that broke or the heads because of deformation in the block? It was a little hard to tell from the wording. Was the block checked for thin areas in the bores?

What type of fill did you use on next build?


Kredz28,

1000hp is no every day setup on an LT1 - in my opinion. I will admit that I'm only begining to research and understand what it might take to build a high horsepower LT1 with boost - The mains being one, at much less than 1K.

The LS1 has capability to flow a lot more air than a 23 degree SBC. With our 'flow-limited' head, you push the motor a lot farther into detonation in order to hit your goal.

I'll let others continue..

-Scott.

The block twisted like a rag from the force. The Block was no longer square. (this was a fresh motor less than 5 runs). The block twisted so much that it broke the heads.

didnt SleeperZ make close to 1000rwhp with a 383Lt1 with twins?

i dont remember him having any block issues

was the block filled half filled with block filler? I know after we half filled a new block the car made over 1200rwhp and never had an issue. When the block wasnt filled is when we has the issues.

1000 with turbos is differnt then 1000 with a blower. The motor with the blower is making more hp but it is being robbed by the blower.

When you guys talk about the block being filled, are you referring to filling the water jackets half way? Does that pretty much kill the daily driver car?

Kredz28,

From what I've gathered, there should not be any change in water temperature when using a street fill (half fill). With this the jackets are filled up to the bottom of the freeze plugs.

Couple of points: Cylinder walls considerably stiffened. Stiffer bores deflect/distort less under load which means better cylinder sealing and more power. Really should help as well to offset thin areas due to shift or large over-bore. Cylinder temps are greatest at the top portion of bore (top ~1") and you will still have water in that area and in the head. So you lose total water capacity but retain it where it's needed the most. This could also mean increased system circulation. Increased insulation in lower part of the bore meaning higher oil temperature. May need to consider an oil temp gauge and cooler.

http://www.hardblok.com/

-Scott.

Kredz28,

From what I've gathered, there should not be any change in water temperature when using a street fill (half fill). With this the jackets are filled up to the bottom of the freeze plugs.

Couple of points: Cylinder walls considerably stiffened. Stiffer bores deflect/distort less under load which means better cylinder sealing and more power. Really should help as well to offset thin areas due to shift or large over-bore. Cylinder temps are greatest at the top portion of bore (top ~1") and you will still have water in that area and in the head. So you lose total water capacity but retain it where it's needed the most. This could also mean increased system circulation. Increased insulation in lower part of the bore meaning higher oil temperature. May need to consider an oil temp gauge and cooler.

http://www.hardblok.com/

-Scott.


Thanks for the info...very interesting!

I think LJ was very close to 1000rwhp if not there.

this guy is making 906RWHP with ported trickflows
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cccYWADbHPw&feature=channel_page

I doubt you would see 1000rwhp and I wonder if you have considered things like durability and the needed supporting parts???

Rich

I run an ATI D1 series compressor with a 4.44:1 step-up ratio.
I am a believer in the increased rate of boost driven by larger gear-head ratios.
The F1A has a step-up ratio of 5.4:1, and, the impeller higher rpm capability (72K). I would have to go with a 3.8"" pd driven pulley to match basic rpm features of my current cam. This would require me to machine a new 12 rib piece since I do not see ATI offering anything other than a 3.4" pd and 4.2" pd.
I have considered the F1A purchase (sort of pricey @ $3300).
B.

if it was a LS1 i could see it and then some but not in a LT1 unless your realy realy built. my dads D1sc car made mid 800's on a 381 LS1 and now that he went to a worked over LS2 hes north of that. and before anyone doubts me, call over to EPP they built the motor and dyno'd the car and the dynosheet is sitting in his car trailor for the doubters.