My buddy ran a 15.9 and his only mod is a K&N conical filter attached to his stock intake. I did ice down his plenum and throttle body and fuel lines when he ran that run. Orlando Speed World opens January 16th and we want to get his car down to 15.6 before we really mod his 3.8.

I plan to have him do the following:
1. Synthetic Rear Fluid
2. Synthetic Engine Oil
3. Remove Floor Mats
4. Remove Spare (done on the 15.9 Run)
5. Run under 5 gallons of 93 or higher
6. Over inflate the front to 40PSI
7. Inflate the rear to 22PSI
8. ICE plenum, Throttle Body and Fuel Line


Is there anything else we can do to get him to run his 15.6 in mostly stock form? I was thinking of mixing in some 100 octane in his 93 mix… We have added new plugs, we have removed his MAF screen and he has only 40,000 miles on his 96 automatic… We really want to pull a 15.6 before headers or nitrous…

 

well it wont be stock but either a converter or gears should get u there easy.....ive also heard something about loosening the front sway bar to help get the heavy car in motion. u might also try ditching the entire intake assembly for that run to get max air to the motor.

 

o yea and good luck to ya at the track

 

this is taken from antoher guys site(magnus)
Passenger Seat - Passenger seat of the car (no leather) 30.95 lb
Back Seat - Back seat of the car (no leather) 16.90 lb


Rear Seat Belts - The rear seat belts
Rear Flap - That little swivel flap that goes across the back. 4.00 lb
Glove Box - The thing that you put all your condoms in. 2.45 lb


Spare Tire - That donut thing. 27.30 lb
Jack - Lifts up the car. 8.55 lb


A/C Unit - The pump with all the tubing. 21.30 lb
Air Condenser - The condenser in front of the radiator. 8.40 lb


1 Piece DS - RK Sport Aluminum drive shaft. 10.00 lb
2 Piece DS - The old weak stock 2 piece drive shaft.


B&B Tri-Flo - The B&B Tri-Flo Muffler and Quad Tips.


Front Sway Bar - Stock 00 V6 Sway Bar. 9.5 lb
Front Bumper Support - 00 V6 Support 19.0 lb
Rear Bumper Support - 00 V6 Support 19.5 lb


Gears, and verter will get you there but I dunno how far you wanna go right now. A better intake and exhaust would help although it may or may not give you that much up front. I would look into a 1 piece driveshaft.....maybe some better springs for launching or lower control arms.

Honestly thats a decent time with stock engine and gears.

 

I'm not sure, but I don't think running high octane fuel in a stock 3.8 will help you at all, It may even hurt. The CR is only 9.4:1. Also the rear tire pressure may be a little low, they're not drag radials, right? I'd try 28 psi or so.

 

See I do not know much about the 3.8.. I had an 2.8 third gen and now a LT-1.... The sway bar thing I totally forgot... Most LT owners do it to allow for better weight transfer.... We will try it... So what octane should her run? 87, 89, 93.... Should we shoot for 3 gallons or less...

 

What kind of 60' times is he cutting? If he is getting decent 2.0-2.2s then go with less that 5 gallons in the tank, if he's doing worse, the extra weight from more gas over the rear tires may help traction. Also, I'd stick with 87 octane for now, it's what the engine was made for.

 

remove the floor mats- now that is something i never thought of.

even if he got headers he wouldnt reach 15.6 with what you are planning.

he needs to start modding before he hits the track and use the 15.9 as a good base

 

removing floor mats wont do nothing, they only weigh 5 lbs 100 lbs reduction gets you about a tenth so the floor mats wont even matter

 

Floor Mats are not necesary for weight reduction, but have you ever noticed how they bunch up under your gas pedal.... Removing the front will make sure you can plant it to the floor....

 

Yeah, lol, removing floormats? Umm, ok, that's like saying "Let's take those extra pennies out of the console"

And as for using 93 octane. It's a waste of money, and I promise you it till offer 0, and I mean ZERO performance increase. Not even .000001 of a second. Not even .00001 hp. Nothing, nada, zip, zero.

It is a common misconception that higher octane fuel burns stronger, ignites stronger, or somehow provides more power. This is false. Higher octane fuel is designed for higher compression engines, in which a lower octane gas has the tendancy to ignite before it should, causing knockback. In the V6 engine, the engine was designed to run on 87 octane with no knockback, as it does not have enough compression to detonate the fuel early. Therefore you already wont have knockback, therefore putting higher octane in the car is pointless and does nothing but cost more money.

Sorry, I just had to explain that, as I see people all the time putting higher octane in their cars designed to run on regular, thinking it gives them a performance boost.

But yes, I would take out the passenger seat, rear seats, jack, spare tire, and any other decently sized **** you can find. You could do like this Geo Metro on eBay did, and take out your front driver seat too and replace it with a carton to sit on

 

Once again the entire floor mat thing is to keep it from bunching from under the pedal. I realize the weight is nothing.

 

yeah, i think removing the floor mats should really do the trick.

you could start by running on the fuel the engine was rated for, namely the 87. running on 93, let alone 100, is not a good idea at all.

other than that and removing the excess weight as you plan to do, there isn't much you can do to drop the times without either spending some cash (you'll get more for the money, by doing boltons instead of fanyc rear and engine synth etc.). that or improve the launching skills for a couple of tenths (maybe).

also some cars are also just that slow and there isn't much you can do about it without mods...

 

hey when is he planning on going out on the 16th?

I might run out there, I have to start prepping, and testing and tuning my exhaust, I have sort of a tune abl set up that I need to tune

the 100 octane crap at the track I woudl noty touch, its leaded, he may fry his o2s, and CAT, with it, only time I ever tun it is when car is sputtering and I might run out of gas, and when I did no difference.

how were his 60's? I only ran my dad's car once and I had a hell of a time getting it to hook, the clutch grabbed at a way different spot then my 3.4L so I wasn't used to it.

front sway removal helps a little, but I gave up on it, wasn't really worth the hassle I thought, also is the car an auto or 5-speed, if he has 3.08s, a 15.9 is a sweet time to run with 3.08s. Also your rear tire pressure is a little low I think i run 32ish, an cut 2.1X, but hit alot of 2.0Xs last 3 tiems out to the track, on crappy bald tires.

What year and color is his car, just in case I run inot him out at the track?

 

I don't know about how much this applies here, but several guys on the LT1 forum brakestall and rev the motor up to 1800+ with the break applied, and release the break to launch. I'm not sure exactly what rpm is best, but you should experiment with that. Traction could be impared if you go too high, but this might help you get off the line a tad quicker. Also definately remove the front sway bars, it won't do anything but help. It only took about 30 minutes to remove mine on my lt1, and thats because the bolts were severely rusted. Go on a day with good humidity and temperature. Several budget peoples have also ran pvc pipe for a cold air, and gained a few horsies... I think you have a good shot, but I must say I wouldn't be extremely confident you'll gain .3 unless your last run was in poor conditions, and on a full tank of gas. Worst case scenario, you might need to get in and remove some panels, the stereo, and the seats. Definately use the restroom before the run. Hehehehe. Good Luck!