Odd lighting problem...

Red-LT1
12-14-2008, 09:03 PM
So earlier today I finally got around to changing my dead headlight and brakelight. Checked it out, all was good. Accidentally left the lights on for about 15 minutes while I went inside. I came back out to leave, and my car was dead. Seems an awfully short time to drain a battery.

So we jump it, and I drove it around for 20 minutes or so to let it charge some. Now, tonight, I go to go out, and turn on my headlights. Problem is I had headlights and nothing else. No dash lights, no fog lights, no parking or tail lights.

All I had were some of the more important things, like the no seatbelt light, turn signals/hazards, and high beams. The radio/windows/interior lights all worked, along with pretty much anything else I could think of.

I went through the fuses and couldn't find any burned out. I don't get what could have happened. Could we have friend something while jumping it? What else should I check?

Quick recap,

Headlights, high beams, hazards, directionals, lights on mirror, seatbelt and no coolant light all worked.

The rest of the dash was dead (speed,RPM,etc), gear selector light dead, no tail lights/fog lights/parking lights.

I don't get it.

Help please!!

Melloroxz
01-02-2009, 03:50 PM
Did you have any luck yet identifying the lighting problem?

I just had the same thing happen to me while driving the New Jersey turnpike at night. Hit a bump and all gauge, radio, door, and steering wheel lighting disappeared. I got tired checking gauges via flashlight so I pulled into one of the service stops to investigate. I also found out the fog lights, and front & back parking/tail lights were out. Fuse #5 (tail LPS) was blown. It's a 20 amp fuse. Replaced it, all lighting was restored. During acceleration back onto the turnpike, the fuse blew again. Pulled off at the next exit. Because I had my tool case in the hatch pit, I thought the tool case shifted and maybe the wiring behind the tail light cover got pinched. Proceeded to remove both tail light assemblies and check for wire damage. None found. Reassembled everything and replaced the fuse. Lights again. Pressed the hatch release, and I think the vibration of the hatch releasing caused the fuse to blow again. Now, there's a constant short somewhere. PITA in 20 degree weather.

Has anyone had problems with the tail light wiring in the hatch area?

Angelis83LT
01-02-2009, 05:29 PM
That is pretty interesting. I actually have the SAME thing happen to me in my sunfire. It had to do with the fuse block in the engine bay. had a few loose wires.

jetset9
01-03-2009, 11:55 AM
This happens in our 97', our problem is the amp in the trunk had an exposed wire that shorts. After a couple times, problem solved. But it was a pain in the butt before trying to find the source.

Melloroxz
01-03-2009, 01:52 PM
Thanks much.
The cream puff just couldn't handle NY and NJ roads.

So far, I found the electrical schematics for the car. After I print the diagrams that apply, I'll look for areas that are common to fuse #5. Tomorrow I'll get the meter out and start the process of trying to locate the short. Gotta be in the hatch area somewhere.

Thanks again.

Melloroxz
01-25-2009, 07:43 PM
I've located the cause of the electrical short which took out fuse 5. It was a wire going to the C1 connector of the Daytime Running Light Module. Right below the DRL there is an insulating pad covering the metal support frame for the dash. (Looks like GM knew this could be a problem area.) Due to the lack of space below the DRL, the DRL wires put a lot of pressure on this pad. In my case, the orange wire broke through the insulator pad and rubbed on the metal frame until it shorted to the frame. Since this is a low mileage highway car, either it's a really bad design or it just wasn't installed correctly during assembly.

I can drive it at night again.