Head warpage issues?

Good morning guys, New here, but not to cars.

I'm purchasing a 96 z that I'm getting from a friend of 20+yrs.
I tried to help him out after a 'friend of the family shop' charged him for a radiator and it didn't help the situation of overheating out. And then said it's bad head(s) gaskets or cracked ones.
From what I've read in other forums and this one is that the Alloy heads tend to warp easy.

It fires up and runs nice but after a few min it just climbs up to the red.
I've burpped the sys, drilled little holes in the t-stat for bleeding air and using the stock bleeders above the pump.
BUT the engine is still somewhat cool to the touch, and idles just smooth as can be!. (deffinatly NOT anywhere near 250+ like the gauge shows) Throttle body is definately hot though.

You can actually watch the upper hose expanding and when I try to bleed it, it SHOOTS out steam and then finally water/coolant for a good 30sec or so.

What is the 'usual' for the alloy heads? cracking, blown H/G, or warping??
I picked up a set of iron Vortech style heads a while back thinking of making a hot little 327 but they're just sitting on the shelf. (I'll try and post the casting #s later, but the casting images are the 3-piramids on the end of head)
Can they be swapped on? I'll probably do the work myself, and need to know if they're any 'special things' to know.?? or if it's just s.o.p.

I've built a few dozen sbc's so I'm not a newb there.
Like I've said, I've known the guy for about 20 yrs and know that it's probably never been over 5Krpms. And he's stated that he was 'just driving' and saw that it was in the red.

I don't feel/hear water pump noise and read of the cap maybe the culprit (but that doesn't make sense since if it were opening up, it woud overflow the res with all that back-pressure.) and did split the plasic tank on the last one.

Another thing.. Can one dicipher the vin code as to what options it has like could be done to the older cars??

I'm not after High performance driving, but would like to know about the average MPG a 96Z28 would get city??
I sell Amsoil on the side and it's never let me down in the 12 yrs selling it. So, that's going in it after I get it sorted out.

OH, another thing. The lip for the oval hose that attaches to the throttle body had been pulled up and in on the bottom of the "T/B" causing a bad air leak covering the t/b with gunk.
Would that cause a 'lean condition' so it would run hot??

I'm sorry for all the q's and long post, but don't have time to be messing around 'trying shtuff' that doesn't work.
Thank you for your help.

E

I picked up a set of iron Vortec style heads a while back thinking of making a hot little 327 but they're just sitting on the shelf. (I'll try and post the casting #s later, but the casting images are the 3-pyramids on the end of head)
Can they be swapped on? I'll probably do the work myself, and need to know if they're any 'special things' to know.?? or if it's just s.o.p.



I've built a few dozen sbc's so I'm not a newb there.



Another thing.. Can one decipher the vin code as to what options it has like could be done to the older cars??



OH, another thing. The lip for the oval hose that attaches to the throttle body had been pulled up and in on the bottom of the "T/B" causing a bad air leak covering the t/b with gunk.
Would that cause a 'lean condition' so it would run hot??



E

the heads you listed wont work, the lt1 is a different engine than the regular small block, some things are similar some are completely different


yes your a nube to the lt1:yes:

yes the vin will tell , the numbers in the dash are easiest just do a search on line for "rpo codes "

the hose you referred to needs to be sealed off so that the incoming air is properly metered by the mas air sensor
lean = hot

and welcome ( should have posted in the lt1 engine section)

Point taken, i thought I did post there.. (old age)
I closed the deal and have the Vin-2G1FP22P3T2135464

I used to be able to decipher the vincode/plate on my 67camaro RS, 66imp, and 72monte but just get lost now, and have a beer.
I'll try and post the casting #'s tomorrow
What make is a GOOD manual to purchase that would be specific for this car and not give several different makes.?

Another thing, I have a good steam pressure washer and the P/O didn't clean it much at all. There's 'gunk' just packed up under the front of motor.
What should I stay away from? I'd hate to start electric gremlins if I don't have to, but don't see how I'd clean it otherwise. The dealerships do it on trade-ins don't they?

Thanks for your help. E

GOOD GOD, waht a pain.. EACH AND EVERY TRY ENDS UP WITH ANOTHER SEARCH ENGINE.. Why should I have to 'register' at all?? this is all BIG BROTHERS FAULT!!

I'll just call a friend at the local dealership.
Thanks though.
E

get a GM Service manual for the car. thats the best one. As far as Vin, there are a bunch of sites that can do that for you. RPO codes, if you have the sheet with them on it there should be a sticky on this site somewhere i think.

Another thing, I have a good steam pressure washer and the P/O didn't clean it much at all. There's 'gunk' just packed up under the front of motor.
What should I stay away from? I'd hate to start electric gremlins if I don't have to, but don't see how I'd clean it otherwise.

stay away from the opti spark, its behind the water pump