I know in my heart I need an OPTI....

Ok, between working 60+ hours at one job and 10 at another job this past week, I've finally found time to test some of my junk.

Tried to follow Shoe's tutorial/how to's on his site.

I first tested the coil. His pic shows 8k Ohms. I got 6k...I'm thinking it would be much higher if it were no good???? Input??

Then I moved to the A B C D prongs on the ICM Plug.

C Checks out and has a good ground
A & D both had 11.63 vdc with KOEO
B carried a low of 1.44vdc and a high of 2.88 vdc while cranking.

I'm taking this info as "Harness and PCM Check good."

I ran the car for about 30 minutes, with the fan switch off so that the motor would heat up and the components would heat up faster. After the 30 or so minutes, the car started to want to die. I jumped in and footed it to where it would come back, but there was clearly an issue. I let it die and proceded to do Shoe's tests procedures again.

The results were the same. Although at one point I tested for spark on the plug wire and had nothing.....rechecked the prongs on the ICM since I thought that I might have bent them in excess with the DVM's prongs earlier. Bent them back, plugged it in and it started right up....coincidence? I don't know...

I let the car sit with fans on high and a Dyno style blower on the car for like 5 minutes.

The car started right up.

I'm feeling that the OPTI is getting this "heat soak" condition. But I'm not finding any loss of spark or anything when the car "heats up."

Its left me high and dry twice. Both of the last times I've driven it. Both times less than 5 minutes into the drive and a couple miles out. The most recent time was scary since it sat for almost a half hour before it would restart. And on that particular drive home, it was seriously lacking in "get up" power.

So, in the experience that everyone here has had with them, I'm really feeling like I need to make that purchase and get a new OPTI. Is there anyone or any reason that it could be something I'm not looking at??

It does have an aftermarket alarm. I don't know much about disconnecting it so....?....

The CEL light is also on and the condition was "multiple cylinder misfires" but I didn't get the actual P-Code from the AHole at "Scheckers..."

Thoughts??? ThePartsLadi on eBay is the way to go????? Should I revert to a non-vented if I do??? no??

Thanks,
Ivan

...or so I replace the cap and rotor with GM cap and rotor???

?? I figured with all the experience....somebody would have chimed in.

Thanks,
Ivan

I am no expert but how many miles are on that opti?

If you have heat soak of the Opti, it would be affecting the electronics in the optical module. If you lost the low res pulse as a result, it would shut the engine down. But it would also set a code. You need to get a better scan done, and write down the codes. Replacing the cap and rotor will not help with the optical sensor, since the sensor is in the "back" section.

If you have heat soak of the Opti, it would be affecting the electronics in the optical module. If you lost the low res pulse as a result, it would shut the engine down. But it would also set a code. You need to get a better scan done, and write down the codes. Replacing the cap and rotor will not help with the optical sensor, since the sensor is in the "back" section.

That's part of what reinforcement I needed to hear. When I took my opti out for a cleanup and inspection there was a crapload of junk all over it. The inside was pretty clean save for a few pieces of carbon. I took it totally apart and saw the vanes on the metal plate, saw the black sensor-which I'm guessing is the optical sensor getting the heat soak....

I'm I just better off getting the opti from the PartsLadi????

If I could get the car to run long enough to get to a parts store for a good scan then I would have already. It will idle good for a long time, but when I get her out on the road like I did last week, shell leave my ass high and dry after a short 10 minute run. Maybe I'll just have to plan a long trip out of it, bring the battery jumper and a coller of beer....or Pepsi...lol...

Having the correct codes would be a great deal of help, I just would have liked to get them before the assmunch at Autozone deleted them. Poor unfortunate soul prolly just told me random misfire since 90% of his situations pulled that code....

From the looks of the cap and the rotor, the contacts were pretty worn.....I'm sure I would benefit from a new unit and if I'm gonna fork out $116 for a GM cap and rotor then I can't see not paying the remainder 114 for a Delphi OE replacement...

??

Thanks for chiming in Inj,
Ivan

You can get an OBD-II code scanner at Harbor Freight for less than $50.

You can get an OBD-II code scanner at Harbor Freight for less than $50.


Nice work! Never thought of that....I guess I could always return it too once I used it...lol....hey, $50 bucks is $50 bucks.

-Ivan